When I bought my ski I asked PO what oil he used. He called his brother who took care of all maint. and he said he got it from dealer, it was a yellow jug but could not remember name. I assumed it was XPS II. That is until I started reading on here and other forums about Seadoos. It is my understanding that XPS II Synthetic Oil is red, the oil in my tank is blue. Can I safely assume it is not XPS II Synthetic Oil?
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XPS II Synthetic Oil
- Thread starter BiXll
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Yes, I agree what you are using is most likely TC-W3 a no no in Seadoo's. I buy, mail order, my XPSII from Mosites in Pittsburgh, about $40.00 per gal.
While you're changing over you should change the oil filter and change the oil injector lines, use 3/32" Tygon fuel lines.
Lou
While you're changing over you should change the oil filter and change the oil injector lines, use 3/32" Tygon fuel lines.
Lou
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Yep to all of the above.
Even if it was older XPSII, it would have been dark brown.
The Seadoo Dealers do sell a TC-w3 oil for the Mercury engines used in the boats from 2000 until 2005~6. AND... it's a big no-no for the Rotax engines. Drain it, change the filter, and re-fill the system. (I do that to any "New to me" toy)
If you head down to Mosities, let me know, and I'll try to drop by, and say Hi. (My house is 5~10 mi up the road)
And finally... if you have a walmart close to you, that sells Quicksilver PCW Synth... you can run that also.
Even if it was older XPSII, it would have been dark brown.
The Seadoo Dealers do sell a TC-w3 oil for the Mercury engines used in the boats from 2000 until 2005~6. AND... it's a big no-no for the Rotax engines. Drain it, change the filter, and re-fill the system. (I do that to any "New to me" toy)
If you head down to Mosities, let me know, and I'll try to drop by, and say Hi. (My house is 5~10 mi up the road)
And finally... if you have a walmart close to you, that sells Quicksilver PCW Synth... you can run that also.
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Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yip... I used this stuff for 6 months before I read that tc-w3 was the wrong crap !
(fyi it did no damage that i'm aware of, 'cept maybe gumming up the raves more than usual.)
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I use whale oil.
jammin777
Well-Known Member
yep whale oil gives it more power!
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Damn bears.
Ah man, you guys KILLED my thread!!!!!Now be nice and help me get it back on track?
Now the other problem I just learned today. (yeah a slow learner) (I'm OLD OK?)Appearantly the PO was running TC3 oil when he told me he was using Seadoo Synthestic in a Yellow jug. The oil in the ski is blue. SOOOOOO, I now assume I have to drain the tank (which I could do) but how bad is it gonna be to get the oil lines I need to? Am I gonna be throwin shit?
Why do you say to do this? Is it really better then what Seadoo makes for the Rave Valves?
Now the other problem I just learned today. (yeah a slow learner) (I'm OLD OK?)Appearantly the PO was running TC3 oil when he told me he was using Seadoo Synthestic in a Yellow jug. The oil in the ski is blue. SOOOOOO, I now assume I have to drain the tank (which I could do) but how bad is it gonna be to get the oil lines I need to? Am I gonna be throwin shit?
- BiRkS_
Active Member
This is what I do, Pinch the oil line just before the oil filter, and get a piece of hose and run it through the back drain plug of the hull, and up to the oil filter. Disconnect the line after the filter and hook this line up to the filter. Place the line coming from back of hull in a jug/container and release the clamp on the oil line. Let it drain. No mess, no hassle. Or now, I have a fluid extractor with a small hose. I just stick it through the oil fill into the bottom of the tank and it gets almost everything.
Then after all is drained, replace oil filter and the small oil lines from the oil pump. you need about 2.5 feet. (I like to leave a little extra, or buy 4 feet and have lots of extra for the next ski!)
EDIT: I also use amsoil interceptor oil. It meets or exceeds xps II and xd100 (e-tec oil) Its full synthetic, low ash, and I pay about 45$ a gallon, AND i use the same in my sleds, so I don't have to buy separate oil.
Then after all is drained, replace oil filter and the small oil lines from the oil pump. you need about 2.5 feet. (I like to leave a little extra, or buy 4 feet and have lots of extra for the next ski!)
EDIT: I also use amsoil interceptor oil. It meets or exceeds xps II and xd100 (e-tec oil) Its full synthetic, low ash, and I pay about 45$ a gallon, AND i use the same in my sleds, so I don't have to buy separate oil.
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Luv2Camp
Active Member
THANK YOU.. You are a GENIUS! I will be using this method in the future. One of those "DUH, why did I not think of that moments"
Sorry, I honestly thought we had answered your question. So yes you need to drain the tank, change the filter, change the injector lines. You will also need to bleed the oil pump and prime the injector lines.
As far as the details I've never done it on a 951 so maybe the Rodent can help you out. If you haven't already done so I would also suggest you download a service manual, you can get one on this site if you join as a premium member, or just google for one.
Personally I would use the XPSII full synthetic.
Lou
As far as the details I've never done it on a 951 so maybe the Rodent can help you out. If you haven't already done so I would also suggest you download a service manual, you can get one on this site if you join as a premium member, or just google for one.
Personally I would use the XPSII full synthetic.
Lou
OK, now I find that not only do I have to figure out where all the lines are/go, (it don't always look the same lookin at the motor as what it looks like in the manual) now I gotta bleed the thing when I get it all cleaned out. Could I not bleed the entire system by just leaving the lines off the carbs and pressurize the tank form the filler? I am thinking maybe a rag around the opening to the tank and add some compressed air until you get oil at the carbs? I just know I'm gonna be throwin shit!
It's not that hard, just replace the lines one at a time, there's only two. Use small cable ties to secure them to the nipples. Usually the main feed line doesn't need to be replaced. On a 717/787 it's worth the time to remove the carbs., I don't know about a 951. If the injector lines are not hard and brittle you don't need to replace them.
Lou
Lou
the name of the thread is what i would run in your ski, XPS II FULL Synthetic Oil, (the yellow jug), and the easiest way i would do it is, remove filter, and catch all the old oil that comes out with cups, (cause it could get messy), lay some rags in hull first, then put new filter on it, and fill tank, then here is a pic of an oil pump , loosen up oil pump bleed screw and let it bleed out till no bubbles seen in your line going to pump, then start it up, cause your other lines going to motor already has oil in em -- unless you changed them
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