I bought a 1997 seadoo challenger 1800, and When I got home I put the plug in the boat and forgot about it. So a few weeks later I goto charge the battery and there is water over the battery, I live in seattle and it rains alot. Now I try to start it and neither of the motors start. I take the plug out and let all the water drain out. I do not know if I should change the oil. Do you think that the water got into the engine and air filter. If so what do I need to do. Are both engines seized THanks
won't start at all, water logged
- Thread starter ddftre
- Start date
- Status
Flooded!....
It is possible that they have been under too long. The engines and electrical systems can survive being flooded, but action has to be taken real quick. Time is of the essence.
Right now, lets try and free the engines up. Go out and take off your drive shaft guards on the back of the engines. There are two plastic wing-nuts that hold them in place. Then, take out your plugs. You'll need to get some Marvel Mystery oil, comes in a red can from your local "Autozone" parts store, and pour liberally into your spark plug holes. Then, with the shaft guards off, take a pipe wrench to the shaft and try to turn them. Preferrable counter clockwise. If they won't turn right away with a little force from the wrench, let the Mystery Oil soak a little. In the meantime, take off the flame arrestors and spray WD-40 liberally inside the carbs, especially the one with the rotary valve in the open position. That will go straight to your crankcase. Spary all the linkage and really the entire engines.
Then, after letting the Mystery oil soak for about an hour, try to use the pipe wrench on the shafts again. The longer the engines sit, the harder they will be to free up. I hope you just drained the water. Because the water would keep them from seizing. Seizing occurs after the water has been drained from them. That's when they start to rust.
If you can't get the engines to turn over soon, then you might as well go ahead and pop off the head covers so you can take a look at the pistons. This will be a good indicator of how much water got into the engine (you'll need two head gasket sets, about $100 bucks each). If there is water standing in the pistons, then they really got flooded.
You need to also take off the electrical box covers and see if they got flooded. They are sealed, but that doesn't mean they didnt' get water in them. If they did, spary WD-40 in there too. The MPEM is suppose to be a sealed unit. It may be o.k., also, check all the fuses.
Let us know how you come out so we'll know what steps to take from there.
Oh, if it makes you feel any better, I forgot and left the plugs in my Challenger too. It filled up with water from the rain, but I caught it just before it reached the carbs. This is how the water gets into the engines.
It is possible that they have been under too long. The engines and electrical systems can survive being flooded, but action has to be taken real quick. Time is of the essence.
Right now, lets try and free the engines up. Go out and take off your drive shaft guards on the back of the engines. There are two plastic wing-nuts that hold them in place. Then, take out your plugs. You'll need to get some Marvel Mystery oil, comes in a red can from your local "Autozone" parts store, and pour liberally into your spark plug holes. Then, with the shaft guards off, take a pipe wrench to the shaft and try to turn them. Preferrable counter clockwise. If they won't turn right away with a little force from the wrench, let the Mystery Oil soak a little. In the meantime, take off the flame arrestors and spray WD-40 liberally inside the carbs, especially the one with the rotary valve in the open position. That will go straight to your crankcase. Spary all the linkage and really the entire engines.
Then, after letting the Mystery oil soak for about an hour, try to use the pipe wrench on the shafts again. The longer the engines sit, the harder they will be to free up. I hope you just drained the water. Because the water would keep them from seizing. Seizing occurs after the water has been drained from them. That's when they start to rust.
If you can't get the engines to turn over soon, then you might as well go ahead and pop off the head covers so you can take a look at the pistons. This will be a good indicator of how much water got into the engine (you'll need two head gasket sets, about $100 bucks each). If there is water standing in the pistons, then they really got flooded.
You need to also take off the electrical box covers and see if they got flooded. They are sealed, but that doesn't mean they didnt' get water in them. If they did, spary WD-40 in there too. The MPEM is suppose to be a sealed unit. It may be o.k., also, check all the fuses.
Let us know how you come out so we'll know what steps to take from there.
Oh, if it makes you feel any better, I forgot and left the plugs in my Challenger too. It filled up with water from the rain, but I caught it just before it reached the carbs. This is how the water gets into the engines.
Last edited by a moderator:
it turns over now
Hi again, I now found out that they do not have motor oil in them.
I took the spark plugs off and they had water on them, I took the the crank case off and the shaft turned, so I turned it over and a bunch of water blasted out. I sprayed a bunch of wd40 in the spark plug holes and continue to turn the motor over and blow all the gunk and wd40 out. It is still blowing a little gunk on the towel. What is the mystery oil used for. Should I put it in the gas or the injection oil. What is something else for the gas if it might have some water in it. I took the flame arrestors off and sprayed wd40 in there also, I need to buy some new spark plugs and then turn the gas on and see what happens. Is there anything else that you can tell me that might be of some help.
thanks
Hi again, I now found out that they do not have motor oil in them.
I took the spark plugs off and they had water on them, I took the the crank case off and the shaft turned, so I turned it over and a bunch of water blasted out. I sprayed a bunch of wd40 in the spark plug holes and continue to turn the motor over and blow all the gunk and wd40 out. It is still blowing a little gunk on the towel. What is the mystery oil used for. Should I put it in the gas or the injection oil. What is something else for the gas if it might have some water in it. I took the flame arrestors off and sprayed wd40 in there also, I need to buy some new spark plugs and then turn the gas on and see what happens. Is there anything else that you can tell me that might be of some help.
thanks
Mystery oil.....
It may not be needed now. The Mystery Oil is what you could have poured into the plug holes to help loosen the cylinders. But you say that both engines roll over now. For the next few days, till you get a start, keep lubing the engine with a water displacing lubricant like WD-40. That way, you'll keep them from seizing until you can get a start..........
Water in the fuel. Water and fuel will seperate. If you think you got water in your fuel, you can open the gas tank and stick a siphon tube into is and siphon off the contents into a bowl or something you can use to inspect the fuel. You only need to siphon off about a quart, as long as your sure the hose is at the bottom. Then, inspect the contents. You'll know if it's got water in it.
Glad to see you realized that you didn't have to change the oil. I think I mentioned that in my post.
Your next step will be to start checking your electricals. You'll need to go into all your electrical boxes to inspect for water entry. They are suppose to be sealed, but you'll need to go over everthing with the amount of water you say got in there. I wouldn't be to hasty to try and start and burn something up. Check all your fuses. Unplug your connectors to look for signs of water or corrosion. Make sure your battery is disconnected and while your at it, go on and have it charged to be ready to test the engine(s)....
Once you've gone over the electrical systems, looking for any signs of water flooding, then you may want to hook up the battery, attach spark plugs to the engine......seems I remember this is a twin engine, if so, do one engine at a time. Lay these plugs down on top of the engines heads in a way the body of the plug is grounded to the metal of the engine. Now, you can try to put on your lanyard and roll the engine over to look for fire at the tip of the plug. It's best to do this in a shady area, since sunlight won't allow you to see the spark so easy. If you see spark, then put the plugs in and try and start that engine. With the oils your using to keep the engine from locking up, it may be hard starting and when it does, will probably smoke pretty good. But the sooner you get the engines started and warmed up, the better your gonna be in that they will be back to normal.
I hope I've given you enough material to chew on............post your results and let me know what else I can do!.........oh, and read the manual in for the "flooded engine"........this will help alot!..:cheers:
It may not be needed now. The Mystery Oil is what you could have poured into the plug holes to help loosen the cylinders. But you say that both engines roll over now. For the next few days, till you get a start, keep lubing the engine with a water displacing lubricant like WD-40. That way, you'll keep them from seizing until you can get a start..........
Water in the fuel. Water and fuel will seperate. If you think you got water in your fuel, you can open the gas tank and stick a siphon tube into is and siphon off the contents into a bowl or something you can use to inspect the fuel. You only need to siphon off about a quart, as long as your sure the hose is at the bottom. Then, inspect the contents. You'll know if it's got water in it.
Glad to see you realized that you didn't have to change the oil. I think I mentioned that in my post.
Your next step will be to start checking your electricals. You'll need to go into all your electrical boxes to inspect for water entry. They are suppose to be sealed, but you'll need to go over everthing with the amount of water you say got in there. I wouldn't be to hasty to try and start and burn something up. Check all your fuses. Unplug your connectors to look for signs of water or corrosion. Make sure your battery is disconnected and while your at it, go on and have it charged to be ready to test the engine(s)....
Once you've gone over the electrical systems, looking for any signs of water flooding, then you may want to hook up the battery, attach spark plugs to the engine......seems I remember this is a twin engine, if so, do one engine at a time. Lay these plugs down on top of the engines heads in a way the body of the plug is grounded to the metal of the engine. Now, you can try to put on your lanyard and roll the engine over to look for fire at the tip of the plug. It's best to do this in a shady area, since sunlight won't allow you to see the spark so easy. If you see spark, then put the plugs in and try and start that engine. With the oils your using to keep the engine from locking up, it may be hard starting and when it does, will probably smoke pretty good. But the sooner you get the engines started and warmed up, the better your gonna be in that they will be back to normal.
I hope I've given you enough material to chew on............post your results and let me know what else I can do!.........oh, and read the manual in for the "flooded engine"........this will help alot!..:cheers:
no speed
Hey I just got the engines started and took it to the lake and it did not seem like it was going full speed. It just putted around. It was cold out so I did not spend alot of time with it. It was real choppy and since I just bought the boat in december, I do not know much about it. DO the seadoo challenger 1800 have a trim like the seadoo sitdowns. Does it have to be warmed upped for awhile before It goes full speed. I am just trying to figure out what I need to do. I am a amateur in training. Thanks
Hey I just got the engines started and took it to the lake and it did not seem like it was going full speed. It just putted around. It was cold out so I did not spend alot of time with it. It was real choppy and since I just bought the boat in december, I do not know much about it. DO the seadoo challenger 1800 have a trim like the seadoo sitdowns. Does it have to be warmed upped for awhile before It goes full speed. I am just trying to figure out what I need to do. I am a amateur in training. Thanks
Putted around.....
Well, I must admit, that is more than I thought you'd get after the engines flooded. I think that's a good first run....
Now, you need to do some work. Make sure, when you come in, you keep the engines lubed.....
You'll need to replace all 4 plugs and you'll also want to check for fire. You may only have fire to one plug on each motor, etc.....
When you say putter, then describe that. What are the rpm? Are the engines smooth? At idle, does the boat back and move forward with good response? Did you test your batteries when the engines were running? You need to test them with engines running. You should be getting at least 14 vdc. You'll also need to do a compression check on all 4 cylinders.....
Get back with a little more info, maybe we can figure something out.
I almost wonder if your rev limiter is engaged......but more info please.
Well, I must admit, that is more than I thought you'd get after the engines flooded. I think that's a good first run....
Now, you need to do some work. Make sure, when you come in, you keep the engines lubed.....
You'll need to replace all 4 plugs and you'll also want to check for fire. You may only have fire to one plug on each motor, etc.....
When you say putter, then describe that. What are the rpm? Are the engines smooth? At idle, does the boat back and move forward with good response? Did you test your batteries when the engines were running? You need to test them with engines running. You should be getting at least 14 vdc. You'll also need to do a compression check on all 4 cylinders.....
Get back with a little more info, maybe we can figure something out.
I almost wonder if your rev limiter is engaged......but more info please.
Okay, I just put new plugs in and have not had a chance to check the compression yet, I do not know alot about engines so a friend is going to come over on thurs or friday and help me out. I started the engine, one engine after I put new spark plugs in it and it starts and I give it gas and it only revs a little bit more no matter how much gas I give it. Then the thing starts beeping and won't stop. I think that means it is overheating. What can I do now until my friend comes and helps me check the compression.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Neutral safety switch....
Sounds like your safety switch is engage. When you start your engines, you have a neutral safety switch that keeps your engines limited to 3000 rpm. That's the design.
Try this.....go out and start one of the motors, then push the gear shift into forward position. After doing that, goose the throttle. Keep your free hand on the start/stop button in the event your throttle sticks and the engine goes wide open, you can kill the engine by pushing the button. If your engines still won't go over 3000 rpm, then the switch could be sticking.
As for the beeping, yes, continuous beeping is overheating......the engines have been flooded, I don't think your gonna get out of that fact scott-free. This could be a short in the electrical system though. Just because it is beeping, doesn't mean it's runnig hot. Because you aren't familar with the engines, assume it is hot.
Keep rolling the engines over and if you can, let them start. You don't have to hook up the water hose, but only allow them to run for 20 to 30 seconds, then shut them down. There won't be enough heat build up to do any harm and that will keep them lubricated.
The next step will be to test your heat sensor. You'll need a multi meter for that. Does the other enigne beep too? Or is it just one of the engines? How do they run? Are they idling smoothly?
Sounds like your safety switch is engage. When you start your engines, you have a neutral safety switch that keeps your engines limited to 3000 rpm. That's the design.
Try this.....go out and start one of the motors, then push the gear shift into forward position. After doing that, goose the throttle. Keep your free hand on the start/stop button in the event your throttle sticks and the engine goes wide open, you can kill the engine by pushing the button. If your engines still won't go over 3000 rpm, then the switch could be sticking.
As for the beeping, yes, continuous beeping is overheating......the engines have been flooded, I don't think your gonna get out of that fact scott-free. This could be a short in the electrical system though. Just because it is beeping, doesn't mean it's runnig hot. Because you aren't familar with the engines, assume it is hot.
Keep rolling the engines over and if you can, let them start. You don't have to hook up the water hose, but only allow them to run for 20 to 30 seconds, then shut them down. There won't be enough heat build up to do any harm and that will keep them lubricated.
The next step will be to test your heat sensor. You'll need a multi meter for that. Does the other enigne beep too? Or is it just one of the engines? How do they run? Are they idling smoothly?
Last edited by a moderator:
What seadoosnipe says is correct we need more information to diagnose the problem.
oh, the ebay manuals.........
Be careful what you ask for!...........Two years ago, I saw a manual on sale through e-bay. It was free......all I had to pay was shipping and handling. Sounded to good to be true............
I got it in the mail on CD 4 days later. The seller obviously scanned it from another manual and left out half of it. The pages from scanning were so distorted, I could hardly read them.
I needed a section on repairing my pump.........it wasn't even in there. The only thing in there was about the 717 and the 787 engines..........
So, if you'd like to take the chance in losing $10 bucks, then it may be worth the risk............sorry, I learned my lesson. Won't happen again.
Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me!........:cheers:
Be careful what you ask for!...........Two years ago, I saw a manual on sale through e-bay. It was free......all I had to pay was shipping and handling. Sounded to good to be true............
I got it in the mail on CD 4 days later. The seller obviously scanned it from another manual and left out half of it. The pages from scanning were so distorted, I could hardly read them.
I needed a section on repairing my pump.........it wasn't even in there. The only thing in there was about the 717 and the 787 engines..........
So, if you'd like to take the chance in losing $10 bucks, then it may be worth the risk............sorry, I learned my lesson. Won't happen again.
Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice, shame on me!........:cheers:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
If you have one of these engines you may want to read this. http://www.seadoosource.com/reservoircheck.html
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
spark to only one plug how is that possible????lol just kidding. but maybe it is possible.
Good post Robin!.....
Great post on the balance shaft oil.......I've made a couple post on it myself but never followed up on it. My 787 has had the same oil in it for several years. I did take the liberty of checking it, was only a cap full low. And the oil in it was a little dark, but seemed fine.
I think the pix he showed was a bit extreme and I think people who are running the older moded skis should check this at least once a season. In the 787 thread I did "a look inside the 787", you can look at the balance shaft and see where the seal is. For some reason, I wonder why they even put it in there? That area of the balance shaft with oil is about 1/3 of it, the rest is lubricated by the regular oil in the engine. I guess becuase it's in a "dead pocket"............
But it was a good post!........
As for the spark plugs...........:rofl:
This guy flooded his twin 787's so I've been working with him just to keep the engines from seizing up. I mentioned that because he seems to be having some wiring short problems too..........but you funny!......:rofl:
Great post on the balance shaft oil.......I've made a couple post on it myself but never followed up on it. My 787 has had the same oil in it for several years. I did take the liberty of checking it, was only a cap full low. And the oil in it was a little dark, but seemed fine.
I think the pix he showed was a bit extreme and I think people who are running the older moded skis should check this at least once a season. In the 787 thread I did "a look inside the 787", you can look at the balance shaft and see where the seal is. For some reason, I wonder why they even put it in there? That area of the balance shaft with oil is about 1/3 of it, the rest is lubricated by the regular oil in the engine. I guess becuase it's in a "dead pocket"............
But it was a good post!........
As for the spark plugs...........:rofl:
This guy flooded his twin 787's so I've been working with him just to keep the engines from seizing up. I mentioned that because he seems to be having some wiring short problems too..........but you funny!......:rofl:
robin savell lloyd
Active Member
I just noticed that it mentioned about water log that is why I posted it. robin
I Sent It Back !!
I did the same last summer thought it was cheap enough...you get what you pay for. It was a copy of a copy and I wasn't happy so I got my money back. That is what got me searching for a place like this ...Now this is home.
Karl
I did the same last summer thought it was cheap enough...you get what you pay for. It was a copy of a copy and I wasn't happy so I got my money back. That is what got me searching for a place like this ...Now this is home.
Karl
it revs above 3000 rpm
okay, I started the motor up and when I put it in forward it moved the rpm motor up to 7 or 8000 rpm. When we took it out last time my friend got a rock in one of the propellers so that engine won't start now. I need to take the back steering column off and get the rock out. The weather has been bad so I have not felt like doing it yet. When we took it out, neither one of us ever drove a seadoo boat before. He said going in reverse was way different than a normal boat, and the steering is different also.
We were driving around for a little bit and could not get going very fast, and then the thing started beeping non stop, so we didn't want the boat to overheat so we called it a day. The weather was not very good either. I think in the manual I read that it also beeps alot when the boats gas is low and you need to put it on reserve. I push the gas button on the boat and it stops beeping. So I am not sure why it is beeping. When I get the rock out of the prop and take it to the lake again. I will update.
thanks everyone
okay, I started the motor up and when I put it in forward it moved the rpm motor up to 7 or 8000 rpm. When we took it out last time my friend got a rock in one of the propellers so that engine won't start now. I need to take the back steering column off and get the rock out. The weather has been bad so I have not felt like doing it yet. When we took it out, neither one of us ever drove a seadoo boat before. He said going in reverse was way different than a normal boat, and the steering is different also.
We were driving around for a little bit and could not get going very fast, and then the thing started beeping non stop, so we didn't want the boat to overheat so we called it a day. The weather was not very good either. I think in the manual I read that it also beeps alot when the boats gas is low and you need to put it on reserve. I push the gas button on the boat and it stops beeping. So I am not sure why it is beeping. When I get the rock out of the prop and take it to the lake again. I will update.
thanks everyone
You don't want to run it on only one engine running as it will force water into the non running engine through the cooling hose, unless you pinch it off at the jet pump housing. The continual beeping every 2 seconds indicates it is low on gas. Constant beeping is overheating. I would remove the obstruction from the impeller before you start it again. (Propellers are on airplanes, and props are on stern drive boats.) Jet boats and pwc's use a impeller system that relies on the pressure of water passing into the impeller tunnel and forcing out the rear of the pump unit. Check the wear ring around the impeller for any large gouges. Lots of clearance around the impeller will mean a drop in pump pressure and loss of power and the engine will cavitate and have poor performance. Keep us posted and come back with a update when you get it back in the water.
Yea, the jet boats reverse different and take a little to get used to. I think it's better for docking once you get the hang of it.
Karl
Yea, the jet boats reverse different and take a little to get used to. I think it's better for docking once you get the hang of it.
Karl
Last edited by a moderator:
Flooded!....
Well, it sounds like you got over the "flooded" problem. Now, with that rock in the impeller, you've kinda got another one.
Backing a seadoo for the first time "is" strange. It took some getting used to. But it is really more efficient since you don't have to whip your wheel in different direction when your ready to move forward.
"CAUTION".........when I told you about the problem you were having on the revs, not the post said to "goose" it. That means, shoot it with a little fuel to see if the neutral safety switch was the reason. It was, now you know that it's there. My problem is that you say you took it to 7 or 8k rpm.....that's no,no on dry land. You can do serious engine damage and freewheel the engine. If your checking it, "GOOSE" it, don't hold the throttle down, unless the pump is submerged in water............:cheers:
Well, it sounds like you got over the "flooded" problem. Now, with that rock in the impeller, you've kinda got another one.
Backing a seadoo for the first time "is" strange. It took some getting used to. But it is really more efficient since you don't have to whip your wheel in different direction when your ready to move forward.
"CAUTION".........when I told you about the problem you were having on the revs, not the post said to "goose" it. That means, shoot it with a little fuel to see if the neutral safety switch was the reason. It was, now you know that it's there. My problem is that you say you took it to 7 or 8k rpm.....that's no,no on dry land. You can do serious engine damage and freewheel the engine. If your checking it, "GOOSE" it, don't hold the throttle down, unless the pump is submerged in water............:cheers:
i learn something new all the time.
Seadoosnipe, I just revved the engines for 4 or 5 seconds at 7000 or lower I don't remember then I turned it off. I will always remember that now. thanks.
I just got done taking the impeller off and the seal around it is missing about a half a inch of the seal, could that be the problem, also the impeller has many nicks and scratches on it. How do i know when I need a new impeller, do you know how much a impeller and a seal would be. Is there something I should be doing now since I have both impellers off, should I lube something, thanks alot
Seadoosnipe, I just revved the engines for 4 or 5 seconds at 7000 or lower I don't remember then I turned it off. I will always remember that now. thanks.
I just got done taking the impeller off and the seal around it is missing about a half a inch of the seal, could that be the problem, also the impeller has many nicks and scratches on it. How do i know when I need a new impeller, do you know how much a impeller and a seal would be. Is there something I should be doing now since I have both impellers off, should I lube something, thanks alot
PM...
DD, I'm sending you a PM.....that's on the top right of your page. It's an in forum email system...........
DD, I'm sending you a PM.....that's on the top right of your page. It's an in forum email system...........
- Status
