I own a 2004 Islandia 240 EFI M2 Jet Drive. I do not have any dealers close enough to where I live that are willing to winterize my boat. Which means I will be doing this myself and I was wondering if anyone had a set of detailed instructions on what they do when winterizing and de-winterizing their Islandia? Thanks.
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Winterize and De-Winterize 2004 Islandia
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
There isn't a lot to do on a Merc powered boat, since the engines are self draining. But... here's a basic list.
1) Put fuel stabalizer in the fuel, and run it into the engine.
2) Clean the boat, and make sure it dry. (inside and out)
3) Use fogging oil in the engine.
4) use a protecting oil on the engine, and other parts in the engien compartment. (Or silicone spray)
5) Make sure the Potty is clean, and empty.
6) Use an RV anti-freeze in the fresh water system, and pump it up to all the hose ends. (the sink, shower, and water tap in the steps)
7) Lube all the external pump parts. (nozzle pivot, reverse bucket, and cable ends) Realistically... just using the protection lube on all of it is OK. But, the pivots should be greased if you do the pump disassembly.
This is the hardest step:
8) Service the jet pump.
a) At minimum... drain and replace the oil in the cone, and gear box. (use only Mercury high performance gear oil for sportjet's. NOT normal gear lube)
b) You should disassemble the tail of the pump, and verify the wear ring, impeller, seals, ect. But... if the lube is clean, it't not mandatory.
EXTRA:
You can also drain the vapor separator, and fuel filter. Or better yet, replace the spin on filter.
IN THE SPRING:
1) Put water, and chemicals in the potty.
2) Drain the anti-freeze from the water system, and flush with fresh water.
3) go enjoy the boat.
EXTRA:
after the first ride... I recommend putting in fresh spark-plugs.
(this list may update, ans I remember things)
1) Put fuel stabalizer in the fuel, and run it into the engine.
2) Clean the boat, and make sure it dry. (inside and out)
3) Use fogging oil in the engine.
4) use a protecting oil on the engine, and other parts in the engien compartment. (Or silicone spray)
5) Make sure the Potty is clean, and empty.
6) Use an RV anti-freeze in the fresh water system, and pump it up to all the hose ends. (the sink, shower, and water tap in the steps)
7) Lube all the external pump parts. (nozzle pivot, reverse bucket, and cable ends) Realistically... just using the protection lube on all of it is OK. But, the pivots should be greased if you do the pump disassembly.
This is the hardest step:
8) Service the jet pump.
a) At minimum... drain and replace the oil in the cone, and gear box. (use only Mercury high performance gear oil for sportjet's. NOT normal gear lube)
b) You should disassemble the tail of the pump, and verify the wear ring, impeller, seals, ect. But... if the lube is clean, it't not mandatory.
EXTRA:
You can also drain the vapor separator, and fuel filter. Or better yet, replace the spin on filter.
IN THE SPRING:
1) Put water, and chemicals in the potty.
2) Drain the anti-freeze from the water system, and flush with fresh water.
3) go enjoy the boat.
EXTRA:
after the first ride... I recommend putting in fresh spark-plugs.
(this list may update, ans I remember things)
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Thanks again for the great info Tony. I just became a premium member so I now have access to the shop manuals and will be able to follow your steps with the details in the manual, specifically for servicing the pump.
Could you tell me what specific products you use for the fogging oil and the protecting silicon spray for the engine? I want to buy something that others have used and that works well.
Could you tell me what specific products you use for the fogging oil and the protecting silicon spray for the engine? I want to buy something that others have used and that works well.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I generally just use the seadoo fogging oil, and "Anti-corrosion" spray. That's because I'm always going into the local dealer... so it's easy to buy there. BUT... most autoparts stores sell the CRC brand, and they work well also.
For fuel stabilizer... I only use "Stay-Bil" brand, Marine version. It's not cheap... but a bottle will last you a while. It's also good to add a dose every couple tanks, during the summer, to keep water out.
To service the pump... you only need a couple quarts of the Merc/Quicsilver oil, and a pump. If you do the full disassembly... you will need some water proof grease (I use "Green Grease") and a special deep socket to get the impeller off.
( I added something to the first list)
For fuel stabilizer... I only use "Stay-Bil" brand, Marine version. It's not cheap... but a bottle will last you a while. It's also good to add a dose every couple tanks, during the summer, to keep water out.
To service the pump... you only need a couple quarts of the Merc/Quicsilver oil, and a pump. If you do the full disassembly... you will need some water proof grease (I use "Green Grease") and a special deep socket to get the impeller off.
( I added something to the first list)
Tony, I am going to replace the Fuel filter and water separating fuel filter for winterizing. I am looking on the internet to order both but not sure the parts number, name of the part, or a good place to buy. Do you have any information on those parts that could help me locate the replacement accessories.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I've had great luck with Boats.net. They ship relatively quick. The only order I had, that took about a week, before the shipped... was during my rebuild, and that's because I ordered some internal parts. (and the rear plate on the fuel pump)
I would give you part numbers I used... but there was a bunch of changes in 2001 1/2 Merc engines... so your parts may not be the same.
I would give you part numbers I used... but there was a bunch of changes in 2001 1/2 Merc engines... so your parts may not be the same.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Here's a link to your engine. (but check your S/N)
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M...(POWERHEAD)/OE384500 THRU 0E406399/parts.html
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M...(POWERHEAD)/OE384500 THRU 0E406399/parts.html
Does anyone have the appropriate steps on using the Fogging Oil on the Mercury 240 EFI. I have not found one consistent post on this. In fact I have found posts that state only using the oil, fuel, and stablizer mixture and no fogging oil all the way to pulling all the spark plugs spraying fogging oil in the cylinders and then turning over the enging to move the cylinders and respraying.
Does anyone have the appropriate steps for this on the 240 EFI? Thanks.
Does anyone have the appropriate steps for this on the 240 EFI? Thanks.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
There isn't a good way to get it into the engine while running. This is because the butterflies are between the reed cage, and the plenum. But... I'll be doing mine soon... and I'll figure out the best way.
BUT... if you need to do it now... take out the plugs, and spry it into the engine that way. Then crank it around. (crank with the kill switch off) That will help vaporize it, and get it into all the corners.
BUT... if you need to do it now... take out the plugs, and spry it into the engine that way. Then crank it around. (crank with the kill switch off) That will help vaporize it, and get it into all the corners.
Hey Dr. Honda. Looks like I will be winterizing the boat soon since Omaha maybe getting some snow this weekend. Ugh. 
Just so I don't screw this up on my first time. I will pull the plugs and spray the fogging oil into each hole. Then with the plugs still out, crank the engine with the kill switch off. Then spray more fogging oil in the engine. Then put the plugs back in. Did I get the steps correct?
Just so I don't screw this up on my first time. I will pull the plugs and spray the fogging oil into each hole. Then with the plugs still out, crank the engine with the kill switch off. Then spray more fogging oil in the engine. Then put the plugs back in. Did I get the steps correct?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
How did you do it?
Since we can't get to the throttle body easy on the 240 engine.... I would spray it into the spark plug holes... then put the plugs back in... then crank with the "Kill" off so you don't burn off the oil.
Sorry to hear about the snow. It's getting cold here at night... but there isn't any forecast for snow. AND... knowing Pitt weather... we will get a few freak 80 degree days in October, or November. (hoping that lines up with a weekend for one more day out)
Since we can't get to the throttle body easy on the 240 engine.... I would spray it into the spark plug holes... then put the plugs back in... then crank with the "Kill" off so you don't burn off the oil.
Sorry to hear about the snow. It's getting cold here at night... but there isn't any forecast for snow. AND... knowing Pitt weather... we will get a few freak 80 degree days in October, or November. (hoping that lines up with a weekend for one more day out)
Hopefully I will be winterizing tonight. Just as you described above is how I will fog the engine. But, I have seen several articles about using the "Witches Brew" in the engine and then running it out of gas. I then downloaded the M2 Jet Drive Manual and it has the same steps outlined in the manual on doing this.
Then I downloaded the 2004 EFI Jet Drive Manual and this is what it outlined.
1. Drain fuel from the Vaport Separator Tank
2. Remove water separator fuel filter and throw away
3. Premix the following in a container
a. 2 tablespoons of premium plus outboard oil
b. 2 teaspoons of quickleen lubricant
c. 2 teaspoons of fuel system treatment
4. Pour this mixture into new water separator fuel filter
5. Reinstall filter
6. Prime the fuel system
7. run engine at idle speed for 3 minutes with flushing attachment attached
And then I have read to just use fogging oil in the plugs and turn it over with the kill switch off.
Any thoughts on the 3 above different procedures?
Then I downloaded the 2004 EFI Jet Drive Manual and this is what it outlined.
1. Drain fuel from the Vaport Separator Tank
2. Remove water separator fuel filter and throw away
3. Premix the following in a container
a. 2 tablespoons of premium plus outboard oil
b. 2 teaspoons of quickleen lubricant
c. 2 teaspoons of fuel system treatment
4. Pour this mixture into new water separator fuel filter
5. Reinstall filter
6. Prime the fuel system
7. run engine at idle speed for 3 minutes with flushing attachment attached
And then I have read to just use fogging oil in the plugs and turn it over with the kill switch off.
Any thoughts on the 3 above different procedures?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
You should be fine... but I would still give the fuel tank a good shot of fuel stabilizer.
I was looking at winterizing my boat as well this week, 2004 islandia, and I did have a couple questions and I did not see anything in the manuals about this. Next to the engine on the left there is this white plastic tray, I am not sure exactly what it is there for or even if it is a reason what the reason would be?
I am going to assume that the battery for the boat is located underneath this as I see 3 screws that I can undo, can anyone verify this?
Also, on the subject of the anti corrosion and rust spray, do you spray this all over the engine or are there certain parts of the engine that require this?
Thanks.
I am going to assume that the battery for the boat is located underneath this as I see 3 screws that I can undo, can anyone verify this?
Also, on the subject of the anti corrosion and rust spray, do you spray this all over the engine or are there certain parts of the engine that require this?
Thanks.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
On the left???
The big fiberglass tray should be on the right. (Starboard side of the boat) If you have a plastic tray to the left... please post a pic.
On the merc boats... that tray is there to act as...
1) a big storage compartment... assuming your bilge isn't nasty.
2) a "Walk way" to get to the battery, and the rear of the engine.
Also... yes... the cover with the screws will lift out, and your battery is under it.
When you do your winterizing... I would recommend spraying storage oil all over the engine, and metal parts to keep rust from condensation in check.
The big fiberglass tray should be on the right. (Starboard side of the boat) If you have a plastic tray to the left... please post a pic.
On the merc boats... that tray is there to act as...
1) a big storage compartment... assuming your bilge isn't nasty.
2) a "Walk way" to get to the battery, and the rear of the engine.
Also... yes... the cover with the screws will lift out, and your battery is under it.
When you do your winterizing... I would recommend spraying storage oil all over the engine, and metal parts to keep rust from condensation in check.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
My bilge is relativity clean. When I put my engine back in... I cleaned everything very well... but the carpet on the starboard side was still a little funky. SO... I have a few things down on the left side... but I found a couple storage bins that fit... so it keeps the stuff inside clean. (I keep tools, and other low use items in there)
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