What I did to my 4-tec boat today...
- Thread starter go_panthers
- Start date
- Status
Just don't change out the port and stbd lights with LEDs. That is a big no no. Has to do with arc of light, viewable distance away and degree as to when the light comes into view.
JPass
Well-Known Member
Already did in the above pics. Light was way brighter and way more visible than the incandescents, especially in daylight. At night, they're way way brighter than the originals. The chrome around the lights also reflects the light better than the stock bulbs.
Same with the anchor light. LED was way brighter than stock bulb.
[video]https://youtu.be/g4_Op4A_l4g[/video]
Last edited by a moderator:
I can promise you that, if you are involved with any boating incident you will be held liable. The brightness itself is of minimal input.
Port and Stbd must be and not exceed 112.5 degrees. Which means the white stet is 135 and can NOT be visible until 22.5 degrees abaft the beam. Further. There is an arc up and down as well. The housings that surround the hull lights are what make the lights fall into legal specs. Also where they are mounted is part of the legal description.
I'll be the first to agree they are brighter and look good. But by removing them and using LEDs that are not specifically designed for a marine application puts you in a potential dangerous spot as you are not within Federal laws and regs.
Not trying to be a jerk, I just know what I am saying in this case. I was in the Coast Guard for 23 years. If someone altered their hull lights they got SERIOUS FINES AND PENALTIES even if they were not in the wrong. Reason was, the "wrong " did what it did due to the light configuration it could see. Thus, blame was moved to the altered hull.
Port and Stbd must be and not exceed 112.5 degrees. Which means the white stet is 135 and can NOT be visible until 22.5 degrees abaft the beam. Further. There is an arc up and down as well. The housings that surround the hull lights are what make the lights fall into legal specs. Also where they are mounted is part of the legal description.
I'll be the first to agree they are brighter and look good. But by removing them and using LEDs that are not specifically designed for a marine application puts you in a potential dangerous spot as you are not within Federal laws and regs.
Not trying to be a jerk, I just know what I am saying in this case. I was in the Coast Guard for 23 years. If someone altered their hull lights they got SERIOUS FINES AND PENALTIES even if they were not in the wrong. Reason was, the "wrong " did what it did due to the light configuration it could see. Thus, blame was moved to the altered hull.
rcguy
Active Member
JPass like your upgrades. Did the Hydro Turf two years ago (best of my upgrades) and would like to upgrade the lights to LED's. What LED's did you use ..like manufacture, watts, Model number and where purchased etc. Hate to order something online and find out it doesn't fit. Thanks in advance.
I agree that the arc is critical. I read a United States Power Squadron article on it a while back. But, how would LEDs installed in the same housing change the arc? I have the same boat. Just curious.
If in the same housing your are is probably within specs. I'm on my phone and didn't open your pics.
If they are where they were and in the IEM housing you will likely never have an issue.
If they are where they were and in the IEM housing you will likely never have an issue.
That's what I was thinking. He has the same factory housings in his boat that I do. He just replaced the bulb.
JPass
Well-Known Member
I got the nav lights from here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/s-series-bulbs/1142-led-bulb-15-led-forward-firing-cluster-ba15d-retrofit-car/514/#/tab/Specifications
The interior lights I got from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-12-SM...6&sr=1-1&keywords=ijdmtoy+12-smd+1.25"+de3175
The courtesy lights are pole specific, so make sure you test them before closing the housing. If they don't light, then flip them around.
The anchor light was from: https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...bulb-18-smd-led-tower-ba15d-retrofit-car/512/
Hydroturf is an awesome upgrade. I believe wifey likes the SeaDek option..........I like it as well, but not so much the price. I believe it's about $1200 for the entire boat. That will have to wait for now. The stock carpet will have to do.
Last edited by a moderator:
JPass
Well-Known Member
All of the LEDs I replaced were placed into their original housings. Nothing was changed besides the bulbs.
rcguy
Active Member
Thanks for the reply on the LED's.
The Hydro Turf complete kit for the 180 (about 12 pieces) in grey diamond cut cost me under $300.00 in 2014. I believe the kit today is under $350. The 210 Hydro Turf kit may be a bit more but certainly not $1200, unless you are talking about a different product.
Update: Called the SeaDek Factory, Rockledge, FL and indeed the 6 mm faux teak material SeaDek for a Challenger 180 estimate of $1256 and does not include tax and freight charges. It is a great looking product but for now I'll stick with my Hydro Turf.
The Hydro Turf complete kit for the 180 (about 12 pieces) in grey diamond cut cost me under $300.00 in 2014. I believe the kit today is under $350. The 210 Hydro Turf kit may be a bit more but certainly not $1200, unless you are talking about a different product.
Update: Called the SeaDek Factory, Rockledge, FL and indeed the 6 mm faux teak material SeaDek for a Challenger 180 estimate of $1256 and does not include tax and freight charges. It is a great looking product but for now I'll stick with my Hydro Turf.
Last edited by a moderator:
JPass
Well-Known Member
RCGuy: I just realized you have a 180. You have a single, center mounted nav light. the bulbs might not be the same. the sportster and 210 have the separate nav lights on the port and Starboard sides of the bow.
the site I listed should easily have the correct bulb. if you're unsure, post a pic of the bulb/bulbs in the housing and I'll be more than happy to give you a hand.
the $1200 is for Seadek. I saw it first here:http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78857-SeaDek-installed-on-210-challenger
the site I listed should easily have the correct bulb. if you're unsure, post a pic of the bulb/bulbs in the housing and I'll be more than happy to give you a hand.
the $1200 is for Seadek. I saw it first here:http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?78857-SeaDek-installed-on-210-challenger
Last edited by a moderator:
rcguy
Active Member
JPass, I know the nav lights are different. Probably the anchor light is also different but the courtesy lights should be the same. I'll just remove the 12 volt bulbs and take them to the local Discount Auto store and have them match them up with LED's. Thanks again and have a fun and safe 2016 season.
JPass
Well-Known Member
I'd avoid the auto parts store. I couldn't find anything decent or for a good price. The website I gave you is awesome in that you get bulb measurements/dimensions, lumens, colors, etc. Prices are way better as well. If you give them the nbr off your bulb, they'll be able to match you up with the right LED one.
Anchor light should be the same. The site I gave you also has pretty high quality bulbs for the money. Not all LED bulbs are created equal.
bdstain
Member
I replaced the courtesy deck lights on my 180 challenger with LED. Just pop the cover and switch the standard bulb with a 31 mm festoon style LED. I got mine on eBay but there's an Amazon link posted above. Good point they made about polarity - they only work 1 way. I didn't look at the Nav or anchor lights. The ones I bought that worked for me:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131705662461?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131705662461?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
JPass
Well-Known Member
Yes, plastic lens pops out. Stick a small screw driver underneath if it's slightly stuck.
Eclipse1701d
New Member
Just got my boat back from the mechanic. I think a dodged a bullet. I decided to have my pumps rebuilt, seals and bearings replaced. The boat is an '07 and everything inside was original with 255 hours. Upon pickup, I was informed that the seal in my right pump was badly degraded and the grease was beginning to burn. I am posting this, because I would like to remind everyone that an OEM rebuild kit is definitely worth the time and money... If I would have continued to use it, I would have been in for an extremely costly repair, after the fact.
Last edited by a moderator:
xintersecty
New Member
Regarding the lights. Castlejoe is correct if the light output is substantially changed. I had swapped my light fixtures for ones that had the LED built into them and therefore rated/certified.
LEDs tend to be very directional from the surface of the chip. The manufactures typically employ tricks to get the brightness to span 360. So depending on the bulbs picked, JPASS should not have any problems.
JPASS <- love the upgrades
LEDs tend to be very directional from the surface of the chip. The manufactures typically employ tricks to get the brightness to span 360. So depending on the bulbs picked, JPASS should not have any problems.
JPASS <- love the upgrades
Eclipse : Had you been inspecting them seasonally? Or was this the first time they had been opened up? I'm trying to figure out how much I should be concerned about mine. I check them every season.
Eclipse1701d
New Member
Funny you should ask. I was a little baffled myself, and I think someone on here could shed some light. I purchased the boat last year, so I didn't have any records to go on. The first thing I did, was bring it to my mechanic. I wanted a full service, and everything checked over. I did ask for the jets to be greased. In my mind, that is where you remove the cone, and fill with grease. I did not ask for the pumps to be opened, and they were not. I am a little OCD with taking care of my vehicles, and I flush it after every use. When I brought it in, he asked if the bearings sounded different when I flush it. Toward the end of the season, they did have a higher pitch. He suggested that at nine years old, and 255 hours, we should order two OEM kits and replace the bearings and seals. I agreed. As you can see from the post above, it was a good call.
So, with my limited experience, and a total of 155 hours using new-to me Sea Doo's, I would think an inspection and rebuild should be done at 200 hours, depending on driving style. I tend to spend most of the time cruising at 5400 RPM. In the time I have owned it, it has seen a total of about 3 minutes at WOT. So, if you are more aggressive, I would inspect at 100-150 hours.
If you do decide to pull and inspect, please let us know how many hours, and what you find!
And, that's the question... How long before you crack those pumps open and inspect/rebuild? Is going by sound alone a good indicator?
Last edited by a moderator:
Nosnibor
Active Member
Very good information. Thanks for sharing. I'm curious about my own. I got my 2011 Challenger with about 70 hours on it. I did 100 this past season. When I took it to get winterized they also do an inspection on everything. However they said the bolt threads holding the jet in got corroded. They said they visually inspected it but next time they want to take the jet out and would have to break the bolts and put new ones on. They said the corrosion was a common thing with these and it was because of cheap grease that seadoo used? Anyone else heard of that?
Eclipse1701d
New Member
YES! I failed to mention, my reverse gate had to be cut off, new gate ordered and installed... My mechanic stated that Sea Doo used two different types of metal, I believe stainless for the bolts and aluminum for the collar. My understanding is that when you put the two together, corrosion ensues, and they literally meld together. He tried everything, but they would not budge, so he cut them off, drilled out the old and re-threaded the pumps to accept the new bolts. He also packed it with some type of red grease.
I asked if it was preventative. Is there something I could do or haven't done, to prevent this? His answer was, "Not you. Piss poor design on Sea Doo's behalf!"
I have also read about people having problems with their shifter. Mine was extremely tight, I thought I would break it off! We ordered a new throttle cable, but he sent it back. It turned out the the bushings in the rear linkage were all corroded. He cleaned and replaced. Now the shifter is like butter...
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
Similar threads
