what caused this, new motor blown?

[project_seadoo]

Oil pumps rarely fail. Usually air bubbles come from pressed in fitting that has broke loose, or a check valve not working correctly. hook a line to the nipples going into the intake. You should be able to blow but not suck.

And just to be the first one that says it...thats what she said.

both pressed in fittings are tight, cannot move them, ill go test the check valves now, will i need to use compressed air
or should i be able to blow through them fairly freely?

ahaha

 

[Seadoobuddy]

I believe that Dr Honda once said that a human doesn't have enough pressure to open the check valves so use a little bit of compressed air at a time.

 

[kicker]

I was not able to blow air through mine. You will need compressed air, around 15lbs should do it.

If the ski sat around for a long time with no oil in the lines it is possible that the check valves or the rubbers in them are not working properly.

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[Minnetonka4me]

check the fitting the 1/4" supply line goes onto on the pump.

 

[project_seadoo]

both check valves seem to be fine, a bit of compressed air and the opened
one thing i did notice when i went to put the rotary vavle cover/intake back on was the o-ring seemed large and didnt want to sit in the grove is that normal? or could it have been "pinched" creating a gap while it was on te motor witch allowed for an air leak?

 

[Robj]

Dumb question, did you check the oil pump drive shaft to make sure it is still intact? I have read numerous threads about SBT oil pump drive shafts failing. OEM ones are good, but I would not use SBT oil pump drive shaft.

 

[project_seadoo]

yeah that was one of the first things i checked, its still fine its an OEM one so i shouldnt have a problem there

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Most of the shops here offer "no fault" warranties. I could run mine without a rave valve and jam a screwdriver in it, then demand a replacement...

So far however, no engine I've had rebuilt has failed... And it's too much damn work for me to purposefully destroy an engine.

 

[kicker]

both check valves seem to be fine, a bit of compressed air and the opened
one thing i did notice when i went to put the rotary vavle cover/intake back on was the o-ring seemed large and didnt want to sit in the grove is that normal? or could it have been "pinched" creating a gap while it was on te motor witch allowed for an air leak?

A gap there would not be good, is there a kink in the O ring somewhere? Depending on how big of a gap there might have been, it could cause a lean/overheat situation. When doing a rebuild they should also check the RV clearance with the RV housing it should be 0.3mm-0.5mm of a gap.

This is what mine looked like when I installed it.

 

[mikidymac]

Any engine that has been apart should be checked for air leaks. It must be done. Did you check your' sfor air leaks?

 

[project_seadoo]

thanks for all the help guys, ive been in contact with the shop who built the motor, and they said it looks like oil pump failure, i had a closer look and the front cylinder arfter i removed it and it has very light score marks starting to apper.
i decided to test my oil pump by holding it in a vice with the gravity feed main oil line hooked up and filled with oil, bled it out and conected
my drill up to the drive sharft with a piece of rubber hose and span it up, nothing happend it didnt pump a drop of oil.

so ive decided to run premix from now on once i rebuild the top end, so far ive removed the check valves and grub screwed the holes in the manifold and made a block off plate for the mag cover, the tank will be staying in the ski to lube the rotary valve.

now since im doing a new top end, ive been looking at a R&D head, would it be worth while putting this on while its a part?
eventaily i want to get a factory spec 2 pipe with water injection but seadoo bits are hard to come by in australia.
ive removed the chokes from the carbys also and grub screw the holes left behind.
any other susjestions of other performance mods? already have a impeller, worx intake grate and the side plastic things at the rear

thanks guys

 

[smc0922]

DO NOT overlook the crankshaft. I'd start over if I were you and get another motor.....

 

[project_seadoo]

DO NOT overlook the crankshaft. I'd start over if I were you and get another motor.....

top end is going to cost me 400 max, a complete recon engine is 1750 over here, the crank looks in good shape and only has 7 hours on it.
id rather take the risk and just do the top end at the moment

 

[smc0922]

You've determined that an oil pump failure hasn't damaged the crank? Good luck, I tried.