wear ring needs replacement i think... :(

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

i am no genious but, i looked inside of the jet pump this evening and the wear ring had a VERY big gap between the ring and impeller. IIRC from some of my reading, there should be no more than .040" gap between the two. i can see with my naked eyes about .25" :banghead::banghead: it also looks like a small animal has been chewing on it a lil.

i rode the ski the past two weekends and it did seem slow to level out and take off with me (290lbs) and even slower with me and my fiance, i had to stand up and lean over the handlebars till we got up to speed. with just my fiance on it, she seemed to enjoy it just fine.

i have never owned a ski, and this is my first, this is also the first ski i have ever rode in my life. so, i assumed i just bought an underpowered ski and i needed to just get used to it.
its not as slow as i make it seem, it tops out fine (40-45mph) it was just a lil slow out the whole and bounced off the rev limiter alot taking off.

here are some pics. lemme know what you think.
please

 

[RFoster130]

Yep that needs it. Good thing though...its an easy fix.

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

i am obviously gonna change it. but seeing how bad it is, am i gonna see a noticable improvement after i fix it?
should i go ahead and buy the whole pump rebuild kit while i am at it?
i have heard mixed reviews about doing an aftermarket impeller and i dont know if it will be worth it.

does anybody know where there is a DETAILED how to on replacing this ring?

 

[RFoster130]

There is a nice how to writeup complete with pics in the how to section here. I would send your impeller out to be refurbished for 60 bucks. And while you have it all apart I would go ahead and rebuild the pump so you know it is done since it was used. Judging by the wear ring, I doubt the previous owner did much to it.

 

[LouDoo]

Can't tell from the pics. but the symptoms are classic for wear ring replacement. You probably only need the wear ring. I would suggest an OEM ring.

Here is a thread, telling everything you want to know, it's by Dr. Honda (the best).

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...our-Wear-Ring&highlight=wear+ring+replacement

Lou

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

thanks a million i just read that article. i am gonna tackle it myself.
who has the oem rings for the best price?
im also gonna do the pump oil change, can somebody recommend the best oil to get?

also the impeller removal tool? where is the best place to get it?

 

[LouDoo]

You can get the wear ring and impeller removal tool from SeaDoo Warehouse, a sponser of this forum, I also like Parker Yamaha.

I use 75w90 Mobil 1 LS full synthetic for pump oil, available most auto parts stores, Advance, Auto Zone.

Lou

 

[RFoster130]

Totally agree with Lou. Mobil 1 synthetic from advance auto for like 9 bucks. the OEM ring and impeller tool from the parts link. should run ya like 80 bucks.

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

i was reading online that my doo came factory with a 18.8 aluminum impeller factory.
while i am rebuilding the pump would anybody recommend i change the impeller?
considering the mods i have (ocean pro head, F.A., dual carbs tuned to run mods(aftermarket i think), the stainless manifold, and whatever else
internally that may have been changed), what impeller would yall recommend?

thanks again!

 

[Kozerxp]

You don't need to remove your impeller u can put the whole housing in the freezer for about 30min and use I long screw driver to hammer out the old wear ring and just tap the new one in I works great I just did mine last week took about one hour to do the entire job

 

[Minnetonka4me]

i was reading online that my doo came factory with a 18.8 aluminum impeller factory.
while i am rebuilding the pump would anybody recommend i change the impeller?
considering the mods i have (ocean pro head, F.A., dual carbs tuned to run mods(aftermarket i think), the stainless manifold, and whatever else
internally that may have been changed), what impeller would yall recommend?



thanks again!

I just sold the prop you wanted. Seadoo made a "aftermarket" one marked "77" that was the chit for all 580 machines. Obviously you cannot go wrong with any aftermarket prop...Skat trak or solas.

I would pull it and pop the cone off....if its just oil the bearings are usually fine. if it had water in it and/or rust its time for a full rebuild.

Make sure to order a new OEM O ring for the cone. I personally use Amsoil marine gear lube for its resistance to mixing with water and a quart costs less than a pint of the seadoo crap.

Just doing the wear ring will be a night and day difference, but a new aftermarket prop and a new wear ring?? Absolutely AWESOME feeling. Its like adding 1500 tires to your car. The hook up and acceleration are SICK! Even on your big old 580 machine...

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

well i like the idea of that much go!
i see alot of different props with all different numbers. what would u recommend?

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

what do yall think of this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEA-DOO-GT-90-91-SOLAS-CONCORD-SD-CD-13-21-IMPELLER-/390305406889
what else would i need to buy to make it work?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

yep thats what you need...and it a decent price for a brand now one. I cant remember, cut I think they may come with a prop tool too.

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

***UPDATE***

so i tore into the "big old 580 machine" (thanks minnetonka lol) tonight.

got some good news and some bad news. i got everything out and WOW that black silicone is a BIOTCH, i almost gave up trying to get the pump off cause it was stuck sooo bad.
when i did finally get the pump off the driveshaft came out with it. i carefully slid the driveshaft back into place and i hope i didnt mess anything up. i didnt think it was supposed to slide out like that. Did i mess it up??

so i popped the cone off and this is what i found

good and CLEAN, no rust and full of BLACK old oil

i think i will leave them alone and just replace the oil.

so after all the struggling. i finally got the damn pump off. look at all the silicone everywhere. that is all silicone and wear ring pieces, NOT OIL.

so i got the pump off and flipped it over. WHERE IN THE HELL IS THE WEAR RING????????? ITS GONE!
all that was left was the lil chips leftover that were stuck in the silicone. so what do you think? should i just leave the old ring in there? lol

also, just for shits and giggles. i took a pic of the intake grate. it looks blue. does it look stock to you?

thanks for yalls time.
i am gathering a shopping list. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
i will probably order all the parts tomorrow.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Nope thats an aggressive aftermarket intake grate...Old school worx.

Thats the wicked bad smelling oil!!

On the Silicone jsut scrape it as clean as possible. On the circle part you will want to clean that all up and put a new neoprene seal on there. Seadoo quit making them, but aftermarket is available ( they kinda suck)

use black RTV and it only needs to be around the tubes....no where else.

On the driveshaft pull it out and inspect both ends for bad wear. Make sure you have two good rubber s on each end of the shaft.

I put a little grease in the nose of the prop before installing it.

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

did i screw anything up when the driveshaft came out?

also, is the marks on the inside of the pump a problem even though the wear ring will cover them up?

so finding out more and more about this ski. i will add the worx intake grate to the list.
ocean pro f.a., dual carbs, ocean pro head, decker stainless exhaust, worx intake grate, and now im adding the solas impeller + wear ring.
all of it runs great together!
i am hoping that the new wear ring and impeller are half as exciting as u described them to be.

 

[seadoosnipe]

You don't need to remove your impeller u can put the whole housing in the freezer for about 30min and use I long screw driver to hammer out the old wear ring and just tap the new one in I works great I just did mine last week took about one hour to do the entire job

I've heard this done before. I've never done it because when you remove your pump, it's the best time to check your bearings, measure your shaft for wear (if you've got a mic) and/or replace your seal. I have never put an impeller in a freezer. I haven't figured that one out yet. Also, the new wear rings you see now days is the solid teflon, that is white in color. The older skis have a black wear ring, with rubber molded around the teflon. When replacing these older rings with the newer one, drill two small holes in the bottom of your pump casing and install two small stainless screws. Make sure the screws do not penetrate the inside of your pump.

I see people discussing the pump oil. Like all others mentioned in this thread, I too use the Mobile 1, full synth. For those that want to use, or can't find the Mobil 1, the only requirement for this gear oil is that it have the GL-5 designation.

 

[seadoosnipe]

did i screw anything up when the driveshaft came out?

also, is the marks on the inside of the pump a problem even though the wear ring will cover them up?

so finding out more and more about this ski. i will add the worx intake grate to the list.
ocean pro f.a., dual carbs, ocean pro head, decker stainless exhaust, worx intake grate, and now im adding the solas impeller + wear ring.
all of it runs great together!
i am hoping that the new wear ring and impeller are half as exciting as u described them to be.

No, you did not hurt anything by marking up the inside of your pump casing. Like you said, the wearing ring will cover it. Just be careful not to make too deep a gouge.....

 

[LouDoo]

Actually looks pretty typical. Its hard to believe but that nasty oil could be the original from the factory, that's what they used. Be sure to use a new "O" ring on the cone when your reassemble, I also use 75w90 Mobile 1 LS gear oil.

I like the intake grate, I'll bet when you get back to the lake the ski is going to turn on a dime.

Actually the trick I use is to put the wear ring in the freezer, I did and it worked, I don't know if its any easier because I have never replaced a wear ring without putting it in the freezer.

I think I've seen this ski before, either in person or a picture????????????

BTW the impeller looks to be in great shape.

Lou

 

[seadoosnipe]

The new rings, the solid white teflon, don't need to be put in the freezer. I've heard of it being done on the older ones, that were hard rubber molded around the teflon liner. But, after umpteen wearing rings, I have never put one in the freezer. I just don't see a reason for it. The older rubber ones will contract a bit, if your having problems, but these new teflon rings? I don't think there is any real affect on them, unless you leave them for 24 hours...

In replacing that "0" ring... make sure you put something on it to keep it from pinching. I've seen so many o rings get pinched when taking off the cap. So, be aware and just be careful...

 

[LouDoo]

You're probably right, as I have not installed one of the white teflon wear rings. In fact I didn't know they existed. I guess the last one I installed was about 3 years ago.

As an old shade tree mechanic I've always used vasoline on "O" rings for automotive applications. It won't deterioate the rubber.

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

did i screw anything up when the driveshaft came out?

also, is the marks on the inside of the pump a problem even though the wear ring will cover them up?

so finding out more and more about this ski. i will add the worx intake grate to the list.
ocean pro f.a., dual carbs, ocean pro head, decker stainless exhaust, worx intake grate, and now im adding the solas impeller + wear ring.
all of it runs great together!
i am hoping that the new wear ring and impeller are half as exciting as u described them to be.

No you didnt screw up anything...in fact as I said take it out and inspect it..and make sure the rubber nubs are on each end of the driveshaft.

Luckily you already took it out so you know what it felt like before...You will not believe the night and day difference.

Now...once its all together...TAKE CARE OF IT!!!! Whenever you beach the ski, then pull it back out to ride MAKE SURE to lift and lower the back of the hull. It forces water in and out of the pump and will wash out most of the sand and stuff that opens up the clearance.

Hey Snipe....are you talking about putting white wear rings in the 140mm pumps? Are they OEM? I know the newer 4 strokes have those, but never seen one for the 140mm pumps.

I have never pulled a pump that needed a wear ring that didnt need a prop too, so I have never tried taking the ring out with the prop in. I do however ALWAYS do the freezer trick. I keep them in the garage freezer so they are ready when I need them. They usually slide in w/o even having to use a block and hammer then a 1/2 hour later that thing wont budge.

 

[LouDoo]

I just thought of something else, there are two small "O" rings about 1/2" at the top of the pump, these are to provide a vacuum for the bailers. You can get these at the Hardware Store, Lowes, or Auto Stores. Use vasiline to hold these in place during reassembly.

Lou

 

[Dirtbikes4fun02]

yeah i pulled those O rings out. looks like they connect to the siphon lines. one of em was already pinched flat on the top but not all the way througb.
but the vasoline is a great idea that i will definately use.