Voltage regulator question

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yakloin

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Anyone know what might of caused this to happen? I ordered a new voltage regulator, I’m just wondering what the wire is called I plug it into. Any advice would help. Thank you
 

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Anyone know what might of caused this to happen? I ordered a new voltage regulator, I’m just wondering what the wire is called I plug it into. Any advice would help. Thank you
The boat is a 2005 seadoo challenger 180 if that helps
 
The 3 yellow wires carrying AC voltage come from the stator at the back of the motor,,,the red wire is is 12 plus volts DCto the battery,,and the green of course is ground.
 
The 3 yellow wires carrying AC voltage come from the stator at the back of the motor,,,the red wire is is 12 plus volts DCto the battery,,and the green of course is ground.
Do you know what would cause it to melt?
 
Apologies,,,from the pic I did not know there was a melted wire,,,often,,,with older 4teks,,,the coupler/handshake develops resistance over time,,,and the insulator heats up,,,Changes colour,,,even melts…
 
This is a very common problem especially on the boats. The more current draw from the system, the more heat is built up at each connection because of the added resistance from a non perfect connection. You don't need a new stator. I would say yours is working very well. You just need to lower the resistance at the connection by making sure each connection is as good as it can be. I have even removed these connectors and hardwired directly to the stator to the voltage regulator in some extreme cases and also have soldered the crimp area on the terminals on others. You should also check the 3 wire connector to the rear of the ECU. I'm guessing that will be pretty toasty as well.
 
Oops! Thought I was in the 2 Stroke Forum....

180 Watts of Power will eventually cook the Regulator/Rectifier.

The Rectifier charges the Battery.

Also make sure you have a good Battery and Clean Tight Connections. That Juice needs to go somewhere.

If the Battery is bad, it will resist the Charge coming from the Rectifier and bake it. Then a Domino effect of damage ensues.

I hope you ordered a High Quality Rectifier and not a cheap Chinese Knock-Off. Upgrading to a Heavy Duty 4-Stroke type Rectifier is ideal. See OSD Parts.

Most good Rectifiers have the Heat Fins running in the same direction of the Rectifier's Mounting Holes.
 
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Like Ski-d00 said, resistance in the connector makes them run hot, and eventually discolors the connector or melts it. Had similar issue on my Challenger, bought new pins and connector, crimped then solder the new pins, no problems since. You can find them on Amazon,
 
Like Ski-d00 said, resistance in the connector makes them run hot, and eventually discolors the connector or melts it. Had similar issue on my Challenger, bought new pins and connector, crimped then solder the new pins, no problems since. You can find them on Amazon,
Can you send me the link please and thank you
 
If you replace the connector with a new one of the same capacity, wouldn’t you expect the problem to return?
 
From the factory they are crimped only. I crimped and soldered and haven't had a problem since. The more solid the connection, the less chance of corrosion building up between the wire and connector. This is what causes the resistance and hence heat build up that melts the insulation and in some cases the connector. When I splice wires, I never use butt connectors, I solder and heat shrink the exposed wire - fix it once and don't have to deal with it again.
 
I crimped and soldered and haven't had a problem since.

So did you crimp the contact to the wire, then melted the solder into the wire, or did you “tin” the wire first, then crimped the contact to it? Thanks!
 
I lightly tin, then crimp, then solder. You can't put too much solder on the wire because there is not a lot of room in the connector.
 
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