Utopia 250efi dead
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Dr Honda
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The oil tank in the engine is fed via pressure. So, if you forgot to put the fill cap back on the main tank.... it would not have not fed the engine. So, unfortunately, you probably roasted the engine from lack of oil.
Sorry
With that said... you should have got a warning horn before running out of oil. Do your beepers work?
Sorry
With that said... you should have got a warning horn before running out of oil. Do your beepers work?
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Bone dry is not good. No matter the real cause of the fault, no oil is a deal breaker. Sounds like a transplant is in your future.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
ouch...
Sounds like a previous owner may have dissconected the warning system.
If you feel like looking into it... and you have good mechanical skills.... pop off both heads, and post up a pic.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I would love to fix this myself but I think it is out of my league changing spark plugs is my most advanced repair im more of a electrician then mechanic
how much would a trade in of a boat like this be do you think?
Unfortunately... with a blown engine, there isn't any "trade value" in it. If its SUPER clean, you may get a $1k from the right buyer. The prob is, the boat in very clean and running condition is worth $7k to $9k. But, to pay a shop to install a new powerhead will cost almost that much.
If you do your own labor, it can probably be fixed for $2k or less.
From the sounds of things you will likely need a rebuild. As mentioned above. If you can provide the labor you will save substantial money.
It is probably a rod knock you are hearing. In the best of cases you are looking at a crank and all new bearings. But I would be shocked if you didn't need some rods and piston work.
You won't know until you open it all up.
It is probably a rod knock you are hearing. In the best of cases you are looking at a crank and all new bearings. But I would be shocked if you didn't need some rods and piston work.
You won't know until you open it all up.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately that motor is toast now, best not to try running it to avoid further damage and added cost. Yank it out and ship it somewhere for a remanufactured one. You're gonna need some tools, maybe get some help from a pal who knows marine engines.
Or, go get another boat but used 2-stroke is just that and a reman gets you a zero-hour motor. The chevy powered mercruisers will run forever, they never wear out if operated with sanity. They only break for other reasons, usually neglect.
Jets have an advantage in shallow water operation, less likely to strike submerged objects, too. This is why I run a jet boat, I have two.
Edit: That plug one the left looks like it has aluminum deposits all over the electrodes, that means the piston overheated and melted. There will also be aluminum puddles stuck on the cylinder walls which will interfere with compression ring sealing. Your motor needs a complete rebuild. Find someone who knows what they're doing, must not be a shadetree mechanic with a bag of craftsman hand tools, must be marine machine shop familiar with that motor, usually a warranteed reman from a reputable marine engine remanufacturer is the best option.
Or, go get another boat but used 2-stroke is just that and a reman gets you a zero-hour motor. The chevy powered mercruisers will run forever, they never wear out if operated with sanity. They only break for other reasons, usually neglect.
Jets have an advantage in shallow water operation, less likely to strike submerged objects, too. This is why I run a jet boat, I have two.
Edit: That plug one the left looks like it has aluminum deposits all over the electrodes, that means the piston overheated and melted. There will also be aluminum puddles stuck on the cylinder walls which will interfere with compression ring sealing. Your motor needs a complete rebuild. Find someone who knows what they're doing, must not be a shadetree mechanic with a bag of craftsman hand tools, must be marine machine shop familiar with that motor, usually a warranteed reman from a reputable marine engine remanufacturer is the best option.
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Dr Honda
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAACKK !!!! DO NOT TRY TO RUN IT !!!!!!!
Right now... with a little love, it could be rebuilt. Heck... you may get away with a hone, and new piston. (cheap) But, if you run it with a meted piston (that's aluminum stuck to the spark plug) you will destroy the cyl, rod, bearings and crank. AND, possibly throw a rod, and blow a hole in the block. At that point, most shops won't even take it as a core for a rebuild.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Why no shade-tree??? That's what this board is all about. Heck... I set the new cyl sleeve in my Merc, right in my kitchen oven.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Why no shade-tree??? That's what this board is all about. Heck... I set the new cyl sleeve in my Merc, right in my kitchen oven.
I think you're going to need more than just a pair of Kleins and a set of nut drivers to do this job right, LOL. Nice oven, show us your maytag parts washer?
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I did not know this. You would think that if the oil cap is that important it would be flagged all over literature and even in the engine bay. What is unclear to me what caused the the engine to freeze. Is whether the OP failed to to put on the cap? or is it because he did not put oil in it?
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
It is. There should be a red sticker around the fill neck with a warning, and its in the manuals multiple times. (warnings on damaging the engine)
But..... the real issue is... there is a warning buzzer that should have kicked on when the small tank got down about half way.
So the moral of the story is.... make sure your warning buzzer is working. FYI. The Merc Seadoo's have 2 buzzers. And, I just changed one of mine last season. So they do go bad.
But..... the real issue is... there is a warning buzzer that should have kicked on when the small tank got down about half way.
So the moral of the story is.... make sure your warning buzzer is working. FYI. The Merc Seadoo's have 2 buzzers. And, I just changed one of mine last season. So they do go bad.
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, please test your buzzer(s), these alarm checks are probably the most often overlooked preventive maintenance items. There are other numerous other maintenance items procedures in the shop service manuals, I think you need a copy of this manual to read through assuming you DYI maintenance for your boats!
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
On the Merc's, the system buzzer should sound when you first turn on the key. (while the warning light is on) If you don't hear it, and the light is on the fuel gauge.., there is a high probability that it needs replaced. But the quick test is... with the key on... ground the wire that is on the water separator. It should trip the alarm after a few seconds.
The other tests are... pull up the sender on the oil tank, and heat up the port side head temp sender.
Those are the three main things to verify, but that buzzer will also give you ECU error sounds.
The buzzer mounted to the bottom of the helm is the "sea doo" buzzer. It will sound on things like low voltage and low fuel. Its also easy to check. With the key on, and engine off.., turn on EVERYTHING. (blower, pump, all lights, etc.) that should put enough load on the battery to trip that buzzer.
But... it is VERY IMPORTANT to check the warning buzzers, and senders once in a while.
As a final fyi... the "oil" light on the sea doo gauge is not necessarily the oil warning. Its actually a screw up from sea doo. It should be labeled as a bell, and its the general warning light
The other tests are... pull up the sender on the oil tank, and heat up the port side head temp sender.
Those are the three main things to verify, but that buzzer will also give you ECU error sounds.
The buzzer mounted to the bottom of the helm is the "sea doo" buzzer. It will sound on things like low voltage and low fuel. Its also easy to check. With the key on, and engine off.., turn on EVERYTHING. (blower, pump, all lights, etc.) that should put enough load on the battery to trip that buzzer.
But... it is VERY IMPORTANT to check the warning buzzers, and senders once in a while.
As a final fyi... the "oil" light on the sea doo gauge is not necessarily the oil warning. Its actually a screw up from sea doo. It should be labeled as a bell, and its the general warning light
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