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thinking about a new truck - recommendations?

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Well, I am not either, I have adventured into many brands of cars in trucks over the many years I have been a driver and owned a business.

I even ventured into the land of Audi, long story short, I hate the brand so much now I will not even consider a VW. I loved the BMW I purchased to replace it and now I am the nervous owner of a RX8 where the engines are known to fail randomly. Prior to that I have owned Toyota, Honda, a couple different Dodge Trucks, a Mustang GT and the list goes on and on.

When it comes to my business, I tried Chevy, Ford and Mazda trucks, all 3 spent too much time in the shop for repairs that I felt should not be needed at that point in the trucks life. Backing up, when I first started my business and needed to expand, I could not afford much. I found a guy that fixed up old Toyota Pickups and sold them cheap.
I grabbed an old Toyota pickup for $1200 with 160K miles on it, I wad a little nervous that it would not be dependable, man I had no idea. I ran that truck for a few years until it had 250K miles on it and sold it to my BIL who drove it until it had 350K miles on it. He overheated it and ruined the engine (never checked the fluids) I bought it back from him. I had plans to make an EV out of it but the economy tanked. I sold it to a client, he tossed a junkyard motor in it and it is still going, 400K + Miles on the chassis now.

Since then I tried a Chevy, Mazda and Ford truck, all about 2 years old when I purchased them and 3 years old when I sold them back off.

I cannot afford for a vehicle to be down, I need to know it is going to serve me every day and only need maintenance. Those 3 trucks could not do that. I went back to Toyota's only and my last 2 trucks both 2006 Taco 4x4's that I purchased brand new, went 110K miles without a single problem before I sold them off (economy tanking)

I decided to go back to my roots, I purchased an old 1995 pickup last year with 180K miles on it for $2K. Did a $75 tune up on i (plugs, wires, cap , rotor) changed all the fluids and went to work. It now has 210K miles on it and never gives me a problem. As also mentioned, I have a 2007 FJ Cruiser purchased with 50K miles on it. It has close to 120K miles on it now. Not a problem other then a dead battery.

Actually I discovered last week it needs a rear axle seal, my first problem with that truck.

Granted, I personally had a Dodge Dakota pickup and drove that 100K miles with the only problem being a brake caliper seizing. I towed my RX7 all over the country with that truck to Autocross events. It was a great truck, but, I felt I was in the minority with it, I heard too many stories of people having bad experiences with them. I replaced it with my FJ.

So, while I may appear to be a brand whore now, I really like all kinds of cars and trucks, I was only conveying that,in my experience with my business, Toyota trucks rock. I am so impressed that I will only buy them for my business and personal use now.

When it comes to cars, I am ADHD, so I will continue to buy all different brands and types, my bucket list includes Jaguar, Lotus Elise and a Maserati Quatrro Port.

After owning 2 Audi's back to back, I consider myself to be a risk taker. I could start a new thread and tell stories for hours about my Audi experiences.
I've never had a Dodge before. I had a Chrysler LHS years ago that we really like, never had any real problems with it. My F150 with 154K miles, the engine purred like a kitten and ran great, I just didn't want to be dealing with all the rust that was developing and on the verge of breaking through. I got the Ram $8K under sticker, $2K under invoice. So for the price, it seemed the best deal out there. Plus the dealership gives a FREE LIFETIME Powertrain warranty. Of course the caveat there, is that I can't even do my own oil changes, all manufacturers required service must be done by an authorized shop and documented or the warranty is voided.
 
I even ventured into the land of Audi, long story short, I hate the brand so much now I will not even consider a VW.
After owning 2 Audi's back to back, I consider myself to be a risk taker. I could start a new thread and tell stories for hours about my Audi experiences.

Please share :). You can start new thread or pm me. Me and racer are VAG..
I'm going through fix it or buy new right now?
 
I've never had a Dodge before. I had a Chrysler LHS years ago that we really like, never had any real problems with it. My F150 with 154K miles, the engine purred like a kitten and ran great, I just didn't want to be dealing with all the rust that was developing and on the verge of breaking through. I got the Ram $8K under sticker, $2K under invoice. So for the price, it seemed the best deal out there. Plus the dealership gives a FREE LIFETIME Powertrain warranty. Of course the caveat there, is that I can't even do my own oil changes, all manufacturers required service must be done by an authorized shop and documented or the warranty is voided.

Free lifetime warranty... Now there's an option I would have liked to have been offered! Such is the price of going used I guess. The only problem I see is that you'll have to be mindful of where your odometer is at so you don't miss an oil change. But who cares, considering the piece of mind a warranty like that will give you. If the new ones are as bad as the old ones, you don't want to be doing your own spark plugs anyway, the last 4 (of 16) are wicked hard to get to. Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't dodge also give a 5 or 10 year rust free warranty as well?
 
Well, I am not either, I have adventured into many brands of cars in trucks over the many years I have been a driver and owned a business.

I even ventured into the land of Audi, long story short, I hate the brand so much now I will not even consider a VW. I loved the BMW I purchased to replace it and now I am the nervous owner of a RX8 where the engines are known to fail randomly. Prior to that I have owned Toyota, Honda, a couple different Dodge Trucks, a Mustang GT and the list goes on and on.

When it comes to my business, I tried Chevy, Ford and Mazda trucks, all 3 spent too much time in the shop for repairs that I felt should not be needed at that point in the trucks life. Backing up, when I first started my business and needed to expand, I could not afford much. I found a guy that fixed up old Toyota Pickups and sold them cheap.
I grabbed an old Toyota pickup for $1200 with 160K miles on it, I wad a little nervous that it would not be dependable, man I had no idea. I ran that truck for a few years until it had 250K miles on it and sold it to my BIL who drove it until it had 350K miles on it. He overheated it and ruined the engine (never checked the fluids) I bought it back from him. I had plans to make an EV out of it but the economy tanked. I sold it to a client, he tossed a junkyard motor in it and it is still going, 400K + Miles on the chassis now.

Since then I tried a Chevy, Mazda and Ford truck, all about 2 years old when I purchased them and 3 years old when I sold them back off.

I cannot afford for a vehicle to be down, I need to know it is going to serve me every day and only need maintenance. Those 3 trucks could not do that. I went back to Toyota's only and my last 2 trucks both 2006 Taco 4x4's that I purchased brand new, went 110K miles without a single problem before I sold them off (economy tanking)

I decided to go back to my roots, I purchased an old 1995 pickup last year with 180K miles on it for $2K. Did a $75 tune up on i (plugs, wires, cap , rotor) changed all the fluids and went to work. It now has 210K miles on it and never gives me a problem. As also mentioned, I have a 2007 FJ Cruiser purchased with 50K miles on it. It has close to 120K miles on it now. Not a problem other then a dead battery.

Actually I discovered last week it needs a rear axle seal, my first problem with that truck.

Granted, I personally had a Dodge Dakota pickup and drove that 100K miles with the only problem being a brake caliper seizing. I towed my RX7 all over the country with that truck to Autocross events. It was a great truck, but, I felt I was in the minority with it, I heard too many stories of people having bad experiences with them. I replaced it with my FJ.

So, while I may appear to be a brand whore now, I really like all kinds of cars and trucks, I was only conveying that,in my experience with my business, Toyota trucks rock. I am so impressed that I will only buy them for my business and personal use now.

When it comes to cars, I am ADHD, so I will continue to buy all different brands and types, my bucket list includes Jaguar, Lotus Elise and a Maserati Quatrro Port.

After owning 2 Audi's back to back, I consider myself to be a risk taker. I could start a new thread and tell stories for hours about my Audi experiences.

Please share :). You can start new thread or pm me. Me and racer are VAG..
I'm going through fix it or buy new right now?


LOL, I am so Jim's polar opposite. I'll stick to my Dubs and American cars/trucks/vans. I'm down to hear about the Audi's (models etc....) New post or what ever.

I will assume by reading thru the lines that you were buying someones worn out sloppy seconds.
 
I've never had a Dodge before. I had a Chrysler LHS years ago that we really like, never had any real problems with it. My F150 with 154K miles, the engine purred like a kitten and ran great, I just didn't want to be dealing with all the rust that was developing and on the verge of breaking through. I got the Ram $8K under sticker, $2K under invoice. So for the price, it seemed the best deal out there. Plus the dealership gives a FREE LIFETIME Powertrain warranty. Of course the caveat there, is that I can't even do my own oil changes, all manufacturers required service must be done by an authorized shop and documented or the warranty is voided.

Same with my RX8, I have to go to the dealer for oil changes and I am pissed, they put substandard and too thin of an oil in it. BUT, I have to because it is not a question of if but when will the engine go and for $1800 I bought a bumper to bumper extended warranty for this event to pay for itself.

Sadly, the dealer service may contribute to the failure, but, it is noce to not have to wrench on a car for a change. I have a Jet boat for than now. :D
 
finally some pics of my new ride
 

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Looks almost the same as mine... but they gave the bumper and grill a little tweak.

Hey... post a pic of the dash, and radio section. I was trying to figure out if they changed that too.


It looks good. I was thinking my new one would be silver.
 
some stuff about your truck jake ....

♦ Engine Coolant (5.7L Engines - 1500 Models)
MOPAR® Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-12106
1 Gallon - 68163848AA (concentrate) 68163849AA (50/50)
16 Quarts
15 Liters

♦♦♦ Engine Oil (5.7L Engine)
MOPAR® API Certified SAE 5W-20 engine oil, meeting the requirements of Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
1 Quart - 04761872PA
7 Quarts
6.6 Liters

5 Quarts - 04761851PA

Engine Oil Filter (5.7L)
MOPAR® Engine Oil Filter
04884899AB

Fuel Selection (5.7L Engine – 1500)
87 Octane Acceptable - 89 Octane Recommended

Regular Cab Shortbed/Crew Quad Cab Models
N/A
26 Gallons
98 Liters

87 Octane Acceptable - 89 Octane Recommended

Regular Cab Longbed/Crew Quad Cab Models (Optional)
N/A
32 Gallons
121 Liters

A/C Refrigerant Charge (Gas Engines)
R-134a
82300101AB
1.624 Pounds
0.737 Kilograms

Spark Plugs (5.7L Engine)
NGK® Yttrium Spark Plug
05149177AB (LZFR5C-11G)
0.043 in
1.10 mm

The 5.7L engine (348 CID) eight-cylinder engine is a 90° V-Type lightweight, deep skirt cast iron block, aluminum heads, single cam, overhead valve engine with hydraulic roller tappets. The heads incorporate splayed valves with a hemispherical style combustion chamber and dual spark plugs. The cylinders are numbered from front to rear; 1, 3, 5, 7 on the left bank and 2, 4, 6, 8 on the right bank. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Displacement
5.7 Liters
348 CID

Bore
99.5 mm
3.92 in.

Stroke
90.9 mm
3.58 in.

Compression Ratio
10.5:1

Max. Variation Between Cylinders
25%

Firing Order
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Lubrication
Pressure Feed - Full Flow Filtration

Cooling System
Liquid Cooled

Cylinder Block
Cast Iron

Cylinder Head
Aluminum

Crankshaft
Nodular Iron

Camshaft
Cast Iron

Pistons
Aluminum Alloy

Connecting Rods
Powdered Metal

Cylinder Bore Diameter
99.50 mm
3.92 in.

Out of Round (MAX)
0.0076 mm
0.0003 in.

Taper (MAX)
0.0127 mm
0.0005 in.

Lifter Bore Diameter
21.45 - 21.425 mm
0.8444 - 0.8435 in

Clearance

Measured at 38.0 mm ( 1.5 in.) Below Deck
0.031 - 0.058 mm
0.012 - 0.023 in.

Ring Groove Diameter

Top Groove
90.4 - 90.6 mm
3.56 - 3.57 in.

Second Groove
88.4 - 88.7 mm
3.48 - 3.49 in.

Weight
413 grams
14.56 oz

Piston Length
53.3 mm
2.10 in.

Ring Groove Width

No. 1
1.23 - 1.26 mm
0.048 - 0.0496 in

No. 2
1.23 - 1.25 mm
0.048 - 0.0492 in.

No. 3
2.03 - 2.05 mm
0.079 - 0.080 in

Clearance In Piston
0.005 - 0.014 mm
0.0001 - 0.0005 in.

Diameter
24.004 - 24.007 mm
0.945 - 0.9451 in.

Length
62.99 - 63.21 mm
2.47 - 2.48 in

VALVE TIMING

Intake

Opens (BTDC)
28.2°

Closes (ATDC)
239.8°

Duration
268°
Exhaust

Opens (BTDC)
274.2°

Closes (ATDC)
15.8°

Valve Overlap
44°

OIL PRESSURE

At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)*
25 kPa
4 psi

@ 3000 rpm
170 - 758 kPa
25 - 110 psi

OIL CHANGE INDICATOR SYSTEM
This vehicle is equipped with an automatic oil change indicator system. The oil change indicator system reminds you that it is time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance.

Based on engine operation conditions, the oil change indicator message will illuminate. This means that service is required for your vehicle. Operating conditions such as frequent short-trips, trailer tow, extremely hot or cold ambient temperatures, and E85 fuel usage will influence when the “Oil Change Required” message is displayed. Severe Operating Conditions can cause the change oil message to illuminate as early as 3,500 miles (5,600 km) since last reset. Have your vehicle serviced as soon as possible, within the next 500 miles (805 km).

On the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) equipped vehicles “Oil Change Required” is displayed in the EVIC and a single chime sounds indicating that an oil change is necessary.

On non-EVIC equipped vehicles “Change Oil” flashes in the instrument cluster odometer and a single chime sounds indicating that an oil change is necessary.
NOTE: 1500 Models Only
•Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16 000 km) or twelve months, whichever comes first.


OIL CHANGE INDICATOR - RESET
The vehicle is equipped with an engine oil change indicator system. The “Oil Change Required” message flashes in the EVIC display for approximately ten seconds after a single chime has sounded, to indicate the next scheduled oil change interval. The engine oil change indicator system is duty cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate depending upon your personal driving style.

Unless reset, this message continues to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. To turn off the message temporarily, press and release the Menu button. To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance) perform the following procedure:

1.Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position. Do not start the engine.


2.Fully press the accelerator pedal slowly three times within ten seconds.


3.Turn the ignition switch to the “LOCK” position

NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure
 
thanks Griz. I was surprised the first time I took off the radiator cap and saw red antifreeze. Never saw that before.
 
Awesome truck! Of course I am a bit biased. :)

145.jpg


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