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the new guy trying to help a friend with a seadoo

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xplicitlnck

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well first off hello and im hoping somebody can help me. a friend of mine has a 2001 gtx direct injection ski. 2 stroke. hes been having issues with it and it finally stoped runing. its gettng fuel to the rail and cyclinders, has very strong spark and is getting air. but just wont start. just turns and turns and turns. once in a while it will start and will run at full throttle (with me holding the throttle) but as soon as i let go of the trigger it shuts down like the motor locked.but then turns right over again. any ideas?? thanks
 
I will move this to the two stroke forum.

If you have fuel soak and compression it must start with two exceptions.

Timing or poor connections. Timing and the rave valves kind if go hand in hand.

What is the compression I the cylinders?
 
I will move this to the two stroke forum.

If you have fuel soak and compression it must start with two exceptions.

Timing or poor connections. Timing and the rave valves kind if go hand in hand.

What is the compression I the cylinders?

Well I have fuel coming out of the main fuel line into the rail but I'm not sure if its coming out of the injectors. Plugs do get wet but that's all I can tell.
Now I know what a reed valve is but that's on a 2 stroke carbed motor. So what's a rade valve? How do I check the timing. I've gone over every single connection I could find and there all clean and contacting.
As for compression I didn't do the test yet but both cyclindrrs are blowing very strong. Will do soon tho
 
You need to do a compression test for sure.

And, if the ski still has the Grey Tempo Fuel lines then there is other work that MUST be done.
 
DI's have a very complicated fuel injection system, I've never owned one, but from what I have gleaned from the forum the two main problems are the fuel pump and the injectors. The ski requires a specific fuel pressure 105-106psi, so you might want to check the fuel pressure and post it, and I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to help you.

From what I've heard these are sweet running ski's but a bear to fix, you may need to take it to a dealer and have them run a diagnostic.

Lou
 
Welcome to the seedoo forum, I am also on CSR, you should get all the info you need here. I saw the post there and the recommendation from another member to come here, which I did.
 
DI's have a very complicated fuel injection system, I've never owned one, but from what I have gleaned from the forum the two main problems are the fuel pump and the injectors. The ski requires a specific fuel pressure 105-106psi, so you might want to check the fuel pressure and post it, and I'm sure someone on the forum will be able to help you.

From what I've heard these are sweet running ski's but a bear to fix, you may need to take it to a dealer and have them run a diagnostic.

Lou

compression test will come by monday. just formy own info what should it be?
as for the fuel lines they are not the grey lines they are high pressure metal lines. were is the fitting to test the pressure? there are non that i can see. and is it just a regular automotive fuel pressure tester?

ahhh a csr buddy. another forum that saved my wallet lol
 
In my opinion SeaDoo just tried to get too much HP out of a 2 cylinder engine, other manufactures went to 3 cylinder, that's why I'm sticking with my 787's which get 400hrs. plus between rebuilds. With that said a lot of guys with 951's love em.

Actually at 260hrs. I would be surprised if that engine hasn't already been rebuilt, average life is around 200hrs.

Lou
 
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Sorry to step into this thread, but the dealer told me I have ~100 hrs and I am rebuilding my '97 xp. Of course it was swamped twice and never taken care of properly after the swamps. But, what I would like to know is how does an owner read number of hours without relying on the dealership for this info?

(probably should have started a new thread on this topic)
 
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I missed that is was a DI ski.

Sorry if I steered you wrong.

The DIs are great when they are running. No fun when they are not.

The fuel pump pressure is critical. For more than the obvious reason.

It has much to do with how fast and how long the injector(s) are being told to be open as well. Wrong pressure means the wrong fuel volume will be derived.
 
Sorry to step into this thread, but the dealer told me I have ~100 hrs and I am rebuilding my '97 xp. Of course it was swamped twice and never taken care of properly after the swamps. But, what I would like to know is how does an owner read number of hours without relying on the dealership for this info?

(probably should have started a new thread on this topic)

Short of installing an hour meter or buying a newer model ski that displays the hours, the dealer or someone with a Candoo is the only way to pull hours I believe.
 
Yep, I believe the 96 Gsx and GTX were the first models with the multi function display with an hour meter.
 
Any insight on how or were to check fuel pressure? And do I need to have the dealer check the injector timing and duration. And unless the dealer repainted the head bolts. The head was never pulled therefore engine was never rebuilt. If it came down to a rebuild is a simple hone piston and rings sufficient?
 
Well comp test showed up horrible... 25psi in rear cyclinder and 90 in front ... guees its time for an engine haul out and rebuild.
If I go back to factory piston size can I just doa simple hone then put the new piston and rings in or should I send it out to b machined?
 
It's 12 years old! How old is the car you drive. 10 years is fair enough for any engine, let alone a marine engine in a PWC.

2 things

1. Have a shop rebuild the engine with a no fault warranty

2. The DI Will never start if you hold the throttle open. The computer shuts off the fuel pump.

If you do "just the top end" on a 12 year old engine, you're gonna have a bad day.
 
With compression that low, I would send it out to be bored over 1 size. FULL BORE offeres a cylinder exchange program for like 350-400 include bored cylinders, new pistons, rings, and gaskets. At that many hours, replace the crank with preferably an OEM. If not a WSM seems to make a good priced crank.

I put my friend's 2001 xp 951 together all with wsm parts (cause he's cheap) and he already has 26 hours on it this year, and is blowing 136 psi per cylinder.

I was able to do finish an OEM 951 build (but used my old pistons, they were in good shape) All in, i was just over 850$ including shipping.
Or send it out and get a 2 year no fault for around 1200$. Your choice.

Edit: The squrl beet me to it!
 
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