Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide

Here is the entire document in pdf form: View attachment Seadoo DI Fuel Pump Replacement Guide .pdf

Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide

The Bombardier Seadoos with Direct Injection (DI) are amazing machines, having both performance and economy, but they have had issues with fuel pumps. The Airtex E1067 fuel pump contracted by Bombardier is a specialized high pressure unit that needs only about 4 or 5 amps of current to provide the required 107 psi fuel pressure. However, the metal roller-vane design does not do well with particulates or water in the fuel, which often causes premature pump failure. Most likely due to these issues, Airtex no longer makes this pump, and even if they did, couldn’t sell it to anyone except Bombardier. When faced with a failing fuel pump, DI owners must either replace the entire fuel pump module assembly with an OEM Bombardier part (approx. $800-$1000), or rebuild the module with a suitable fuel pump. There are 15 Seadoo PWC and 2 boats that have or will face that dilemma, as shown in this table.

There are many in-tank (submersible) automotive fuel pumps available, but few that can achieve the required 107 psi pressure needed for Direct Injection. The few candidate pumps that have been “discovered” are mostly referred to as “255 lph” (liters per hour) pumps and built competitively to the well known Walbro GSS-342 (340 series). Typical pump performance curves are shown here for reference. These curves are for the “High Pressure” version of the “255 lph” pumps. The flow curves show that a 255 lph (67 gph) flow rate is at the common 40 psi used in many automotive applications, whereas at 107 psi the pump can still deliver about 15 gph. That is enough flow to feed the 951 DI motor when demanding its highest performance usage. The electrical power curves shown in the graph indicate these pumps on average require about 14A (amps) of current to maintain the 107 psi pressure. Typically these types of pumps can be found that require “only” 12A for the 107 psi. The picture shown here compares three pumps, from top to bottom, the Seadoo OEM Airtex E1067 roller-vane, Walbro GSS342 gerotor (or HFP-342 composite vane-impeller), and the HFP-342DI (HFP-RTN) composite vane-impeller pump.

Since the maximum output of the magneto power system in the 951 motor is about 18A, even a 12A power draw is “marginal” when considering the rest of the power requirements of the PWC, and that the battery must also be re-charged while riding.

The easiest and best fuel pump replacement should fit into the OE fuel pump module assembly, with the least modifications, and still keep all the original module design functions. The key designs of the module include a fuel intake on the very bottom of the tank, a spring to keep the intake on the bottom yet allow tank flex and easy installation, a reservoir to contain the return flow from the fuel rail, and a foot valve to keep the reservoir from leaking back into the tank. Some early methods of installing these replacement pumps would lose all of this functionality by hose clamping the pump inside the module, using a single filter sock attached to the pump, and use of an outlet hose eliminating the spring feature. This mounting has several drawbacks including the pump intake is no longer on the tank bottom, but about 2” above the bottom, diminishing the range of a ride. The reservoir functionality is also gone. To keep module functionality, and minimize modifications, a pump is chosen with an inlet port the same size as the OE pump port, so it exactly fits into the “inner” (second) filter screen, and aligned inlet and outlet ports to allow the same OE type of axial pump mounting. The 342 model of the “340” pump series has these features, whereas the 340 has too large of intake, and the 341 inlet and outlet ports are misaligned.

Current Best Replacement Pump

The current best Seadoo DI replacement fuel pump is the HFP-342DI from “High Flow Performance” which supplies 107 psi yet draws only 9A compared to the more common 12A plus power requirement of other similar pumps. The kit from HFP ( also includes the two filter strainers (FS220 and FS242) to exactly replace the OEM fuel module filters, two fuel resistant electrical connectors, and a piece of high pressure fuel resistant hose with hose clamps. The desired hose, a short black hose, or a longer flexible white hose, can be specified when ordering the pump.

Fuel Pump Module Removal

The following fuel pump replacement guide uses a 2001 GTX DI, but is similar to other DI Seadoo PWC and boats.

The easiest module access is obtained by removing the front storage compartment, then strap the hood open so it doesn’t fall on you. It is also easier if you remove the “glove box” console storage compartment to additionally provide top access. Remove the front air supply tube, and also the second one you can see behind it. The first tube can probably just be pulled off the upper connection, if not just loosen the large ratcheting strap. Only the “zip tie” (cable tie) that holds the top of the second tube to the hull needs to be clipped, the others can simply be left intact and slipped off the tube ends. Leave the zip ties that hold the tubes in their “Z” shape. Remove the filler end of the fuel fill hose from the hull and contort it out of the way behind the steering “column”. The first picture shows the view after the storage compartment is removed, and the next one shows the top of the tank and module after the air-tubes are removed and the fuel fill hose is tucked out of the way.

Unclick the fuel lines from the starboard hull supports, and use a 5/16” QC tool (a red metal tool shown) to separate the “Quick-Connects” for both the fuel supply and return lines.

Remove the gray vent hose from the top of the now visible module, and unclip the electrical connector. Use an 8mm nut driver to remove all the nuts holding the module to the top of the tank. Save the nuts and washers aside in a container so they don’t get lost in the bilge, since the nuts are brass and the washers are stainless steel, a retractor magnet won’t help to retrieve them. In the view from the top, notice the alignment arrow on the fuel module top, pointing at both the PWC port side, and the rubber gasket protruding tab (red arrows). Due to the uneven spacing of the mounting studs, the gasket and module can only go back in properly, with these aligned.

Carefully lift out the fuel pump module, noting there is a float for the fuel sensor (gauge) on the end of a pivoting metal rod. It helps to rotate the module 180 degrees when half way out so the bent float rod has a better exit angle. If it helps, remove the rod from the gauge now instead of later, with careful prying at the attachment point to pop it out of the plastic retainer clip on the gauge. The module reservoir will be partly full of fuel that can be poured into a container while tipping the module out of the tank or, if small enough in volume, can be poured out after module removal. Whatever fuel is spilled from the module or the fuel line disconnects will evaporate quickly if the hull is left open and well ventilated. After the module is removed, cover the tank opening to cut down on fuel evaporation and contamination.

Module Disassembly

Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel gauge and remove the float to avoid damaging the gauge. Unplug the electrical connector from the underside of the module top. The bottom filter screen can easily be removed from the module bottom at any time. Unclip the three sliding clips that hold the aluminum reservoir, and separate it from the top with hoses and external fuel filter can. The plastic outlet tube will extract from the “sliding seal” and the spring will come loose. The fuel pump can be pulled out of the reservoir now, if desired. You CAN do all the work through the top opening of the module reservoir, OR drill out the two aluminum pop rivets and remove the bottom of the reservoir making things easier on re-assembly. Two metal screws or new pop rivets can be used to anchor the bottom later. If the inner filter screen & rubber grommet has a good grip on the pump inlet, it will come out still attached to the pump, otherwise it will remain attached to the module bottom. Remove the inner filter from the module bottom keeping track of the underlying foot-valve components, which consists of a metal washer and a thin rubber washer. Separate the black rubber grommet from the inner filter since you will re-use this on the new filter screen.

Shown here is the OE fuel pump with the attached seal carrier, both inner and outer filter screens, and the module bottom with foot-valve washers. The next picture is of the removed sliding-seal.

Fuel Pump

Clip the old pump wiring off close to the pump to leave as much wire on the harness as possible. Slip the thin white plastic sheet off the pump body which supports the pump in the middle of the module. Unscrew the aluminum sliding-seal carrier from the top of the OE pump. Check the flexibility and viability of the black rubber sliding-seal. If it is still in good shape then the sliding seal and spring system can be retained. On RARE occasions this seal can fail causing loss of pressure even when the pump is still good. If the seal has failed, there is no known replacement, so a hose must be used between the top of the pump and the output tube where the seal used to slide. Then the spring system must be abandoned and other methods used to support the pump and hold the module together and firmly on the tank bottom. For example, see the novel flex-hose solution of “baddb1”:
A picture from the forum thread showing the flex hose install is shown for reference.

However, we won’t discuss those solutions any further here, refer to the post on the forum.

The OE fuel pump was rigidly screwed to the sliding seal carrier, so with the pump bottom also held firmly by the inner filter grommet, the thin white plastic pump support could easily hold the pump in the middle of the module. This is no longer the case when the rigid connection is replaced with a flexible piece of hose, so a hose reinforcing method is needed to stiffen the connection. Rigidity from the pump inlet all the way through to the sliding seal is required so that there is no “tilting” of the seal interface which would cause leakage and pressure loss. This “tilting” and pressure loss has been observed on less rigid installs, due to the high g-forces associated with high speed PWC riding, maneuvering, and wave jumping or wave “crashing”.

The best solution found is to split a ½” piece of copper pipe lengthwise and anchor both halves around the hose with the same hose clamps used to hold the hose to the pump and seal carrier. To make the hose attachment to the seal carrier rigid, use a 5/16” brass hose barb with a female 1/8” NPT. These pictures show the OE pump inlet and rubber grommet, and the brass barb fitting with the seal carrier.

The 1/8” FNPT (FPT) doesn’t screw on all the way to the SAE 3/8-24 seal carrier thread since the barb is a tapered pipe thread, in addition to having 27 threads/inch rather than 24. However, it screws on pretty far and makes a rigid connection. The taper makes a good seal, especially with some Loctite PST 592 Teflon pipe thread sealant (same as used on the jet-pump oil filler plug). If the FPT is re-tapped to a 24 thread, the barb screws on farther but does not seal as well without the OE O-ring (and O-ring pocket). Therefore this is not recommended unless you have the ability to mill the O-ring pocket into the barb FNPT end. Some have tried not using a barb fitting and just placing the hose over the seal carrier thread. This apparently has worked for a time, but is not the first recommendation since it may not seal as well long-term, and the length of thread inside the hose is so short, it is not a rigid connection at all by comparison.

Measure the length needed of special in-tank black high pressure fuel hose (SAE J30R10 specs) to connect the pump outlet and brass barb fitting. Inferior rated hose will turn to mush after long immersion in fuel. Allowing for the barb and pump outlet lengths, a piece of hose about 1¾” long is appropriate, remembering that the hose length lessens about ¼” when stretched (swelled) over the pump outlet and barb fitting. Cut the copper pipe for the stiffener only a little less than the installed hose length to avoid interference with either the pump or the barb’s female end.

Install the hose on the pump and the barb fitting on the other end, then clamp the copper stiffener “shells” over the hose with either Oetiker clamps (17mm), or high quality all stainless worm drive hose clamps. With the copper to “smooth” out the pressure, a standard worm-drive hose clamp would be sufficient since the “flat spot” usually associated with the worm gear is smoothed out by the copper. Then screw the seal carrier into the female barb fitting using a bit of Loctite PST 592, or some other equivalent paste, on the threads as a sealer. Don’t use white Teflon tape since it will dissolve in fuel. Don’t tighten too much, or the threads will strip since they are different size.

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Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide --continued

This picture shows the new pump setup, with a rigid hose connection, attached to the seal carrier. The second picture shows the equivalent length of the OE pump and the new pump setup.

The OE white plastic pump-support can be re-used by enlarging the hole slightly since the OE pump is about 1.31” diameter (where the support is), and the new HFP-342DI pump body is about 1.45” diameter. Remove excess material by grinding or filing, but be sure to not make the hole to large so it is still a tight fit on the new pump body. In addition, the plastic support must be flipped over for installation since the offset hole is now in the opposite direction for the new pump. A thicker and stronger piece of HDPE plastic can also be fabricated into a sturdier support if desired.

Attach (crimp) the fuel resistant electrical connectors to the pump wiring harness, then connect to the pump, observing the correct polarity. Then slide on the plastic pump support. Insert the rubber grommet into the new inner filter screen, and press it into the module bottom, with the foot-valve already properly installed (metal washer on top of rubber). Place the new pump inlet into the rubber grommet in the filter screen.

Slide the module bottom with the pump setup into the aluminum module body, and reattach with a couple of small metal screws. If the bottom was never removed, then lower the pump setup into the module reservoir and insert the inner filter screen into its pocket. Use a long screwdriver (or equivalent), reaching past the white plastic pump-support, to firmly press all four corners of the filter down into the “socket”. Remember to make sure the foot-valve washers were in place beforehand. This picture shows the pump in place inside the module aluminum body (reservoir), with the white plastic pump-support holding the pump between the module walls.

Lube the outlet tube and/or the sliding seal lightly. Set the spring on top of the seal carrier. Choose the proper orientation (only one way) to insert the outlet tube into the sliding-seal and clip the three retaining clips of the upper module into the aluminum reservoir. Reattach the electrical connectors to the module top and fuel sensor. Replace the fuel sensor float, or alternatively wait until the module is halfway back into the tank, then replace it.

The replacement of the rebuilt fuel pump module assembly into the watercraft is the reverse of the disassembly.

Pat yourself on the back. It should feel good to replace the failed (probably corroded) OE fuel pump, with a new Lifetime Warranty pump (having composite parts), that will hopefully last a good long time.

Here is the entire document in pdf form: View attachment 19073
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Active Member
Outstanding DooWacka. That pdf document is a godsend. I had started trying to piece together one for reference myself.

Thankfully I started procrastinating on finishing it!!
Recently made a account on here as I needed help installing a new fuel pump. Read through several forums and learned a great deal, then came across this, glad I did! Thanks so much for the write up DooWacka!
additional questions: If I do not have access to a brass barb, do you think simply tightening (via hose clamp) the high pressure tubing to the threaded steel end would suffice? Stated its not a solid long term solution I understand, but I seem to get a pretty good connection, any recommendations?

Additionally, I had to cut the wires from the OEM pump (since mine didn't come quite the same as those pictured) and connect the wires (red/black) leading from the main connector (one that plugs into the top of the housing) to the new pump. What's the best method for making electrical connections that are potentially submerged in fuel?

I know some people have not used the barb, but just put the hose on the threads of the aluminum (not steel) seal-carrier. I have not heard back from them, so I assume it is at least a temporary solution. I feel it will not however provide as "stiff" of support, even when using the copper shells.

All you need is fuel resistant crimp connectors. You obviously don't have to seal them any better, since these type of connections are often used in non-conductive fuels. The plastic of the connectors is such that it doesn't dissolve in fuel.
This looks absolutely awesome. I'm needing to do this because I do not want to pay the $1100 to have my shop do it. If I understand correctly, there are some additional parts necessary. If I'm missing any, please let me know:

- HFP-342DI fuel pump from HFP
- 2 metal screws to go through the popped out rivets. (Does the material matter? Do they just need to be coarse threads, larger than the drilled hole to catch thread?)
- 1/2" copper pipe appx. 6 in. in length, then cut to size
- 5/16" brass hose barb with female 1/8" NPT
- Loctite PST 592 Teflon pipe thread sealant.
- What kind of lube does it require?

This is my first time working on watercraft. I've done automotive repairs, but I'm a little more cautious with water stuff, especially around the fuel. Explosions don't mix too well with my body. About how long does it take? What if I don't have the red tool at the beginning to disconnect the fuel lines? About how long does it take for the HFP parts to arrive after ordering?

Thanks in advance for the help! I may (probably) have more questions.
Looks like you have read the guide well, and have listed all the additional parts. Since you are following the guide, make sure you ask HighFlow to send you the short black rubber hose, instead of the long white hose.

The screw metal doesn't matter, as long as they hold the bottom on. Fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel they pump. The pump should arrive within a few days after ordering. The rebuild will probably take you a few hours, since it is your first time. You will definitely need some type of Quick-Connect tool for 5/16" lines. If you have encountered these connectors in your automotive work, these are the same. They sell cheap plastic versions also that do work with a little more effort. Here are the metal and plastic versions from Harbor Freight (I see you have a few of those stores near you around Garland).
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Thanks. Now, I was asking a friend of mine about this, and one of the concerns he expressed is maybe needing to adjust some stuff to get the fuel/oil mixture right again. Or possible the fuel/air mix going into the engine. Is that going to be necessary? If so, how? We just had the engine rebuilt last year, so I'd rather it not bust on me so quickly.
No adjustments are needed.

The oil is always "mixed" based upon rpm and throttle position. The "mix" ratio varies depending upon demand, so if your just cruising slowly, there is less oil consumption than if you are playing hard. The oil is not really "mixed" with the fuel at all, since the oil is just injected into the crankcase on the bearings, and some gets onto the cylinder walls. This has nothing to do with a fuel pump, or fuel injection.

The MPEM (ECU; computer) controls the amount of fuel injected, based upon a variety of inputs. The TPS, MAPS, and rpm are the main inputs for fuel injection. The fuel pressure regulator in the fuel/air rail keeps the injector pressure at the required 107 psi, so as long as the fuel pump can supply that pressure, everything else is taken care of.
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FYI to all. I just ordered mine directly from the site, and when they shipped it to me, they sent it already with the tubing and copper piping in place. So all the steps about creating the rigid hose connection aren't necessary. I would advise you to ask that they send it with the black tubing, just in case, but hopefully you won't have to worry about that part.


Active Member
FYI to all. I just ordered mine directly from the site, and when they shipped it to me, they sent it already with the tubing and copper piping in place. So all the steps about creating the rigid hose connection aren't necessary. I would advise you to ask that they send it with the black tubing, just in case, but hopefully you won't have to worry about that part.
Yes of course they would...for you....;) When I ordered one they not only didn't do that but they forgot to include the black tubing I
asked for.....
FYI to all. I just ordered mine directly from the site, and when they shipped it to me, they sent it already with the tubing and copper piping in place. So all the steps about creating the rigid hose connection aren't necessary. I would advise you to ask that they send it with the black tubing, just in case, but hopefully you won't have to worry about that part.
That sounds great.
I had sent my "Install Guide" to Christian at High Flow, and apparently they took it upon themselves to further enhance the kit.
I just got an email from him yesterday stating ...
"We now ship every pump assembled with a stainless steel sleeve over the rubber hose to keep it rigid, as well as a brass fitting to thread directly onto the factory Seadoo slide tube, and pex clamps to eliminate failure/ leak prone conventional hose clamps."

I have not yet seen pictures of the stiffener tube and setup. I told them they should add some verbiage about these kit additions (and pics) to their website and eBay listing, but they haven't even changed the picture to the new 9A pump.

If you have a chance, could you post a pic of this new stiffener setup?


Active Member
Ooo. That sucks. Sorry, man. Did they eventually send it out to you?
No I had to source it locally. They offered but it would have been an annoyance as I pick up my US mail
infrequently. Of course when I was emailing them I assumed I could find this hose anywhere. Took me 4-5 auto places
to get one with appropriate pressure rating.
Yeah, I'm having trouble finding a store with the Loctite, or a reasonable equivalent.
Anyway, here are pictures of what came in my box when they shipped it to me (hopefully they show):
The barb already came rigidly attached, which has saved me a lot of time. Once I find some Loctite, I'll be able to finish the job and hopefully I can take the boat out on the 4th.

Total newbie question, now. When I was crimping the wires on, does it matter how much of the wire I exposed? Just as long as it makes a good connection in the ring area of the crimp connect, right? Being that it's surrounded by gas, I was a little hesitant to expose too much.
Great pics, thanks. You are right, they did save you a lot of fabrication work.

The Loctite 592 PST is just a teflon based pipe dope sealant, that Seadoo also recommends for the plug when you change the jet pump oil.
You can either mail order it from eBay, Amazon, or Advance Auto Parts, etc.,
Or you can just go to your local O'Reilly Auto Parts and get Permatex 80632, which is an equivalent.

Gasoline is not electrically conductive, so the type of exposure you are fearing is not an issue. Make sure you have stripped plenty of wire for a good connection. These type of connections are common with all submersible in-tank fuel pumps.
:facepalm: Well I feel dumb now... Thanks for the help! I picked up some 567 PST today and I'll go finish it up with about another hourish.
So I just did the install, but when I went to start it (hoping it wouldn't explode on me), it just beeped repeatedly as soon as I put the lanyard on. The display didn't come up either, nor did pushing the start button do anything. Ideas? Do I have a bad connection somewhere?
I just went through the advanced diagnostics thing, I think. Without the lanyard installed, pushed starter 5 times. One short beep, one long. Put key on. Pushed starter. 2 beeps. I haven't found a clear answer as to what that means on this forum.

Sorry for the multiple posts, but I'm short on time right now and just doing things as I can. I hope I didn't royally screw something up.