Seadoo DI (Direct Injection) Fuel Pump Replacement Guide

[DooWacka]

In looking at the High Flow website it does look like they recommend either the HFP-342DI or the HFP-500DI. I have no experience or feedback about the 500DI, but I believe I myself would try it since it is already the correct length, has more motor that may provide easier pumping at a lower current draw. It does look like the original OEM pump. I would say that is worth the extra $40.

It is interesting that they recommend these DI pumps for even the non-DI Seadoos, since the DI require a much higher pressure. I would think they could develop an even lower current draw pump for the non-DI Seadoos.

 

[Tomgunz1313]

Hey everyone, first time posting here.
Couple questions. Attached picture of the pump I purchased.

Replacing the fuel pump in my 04 seadoo sportster DI, does anyone know where I can get the rubber gasket/seal that goes on the bottom of the fuel pump that holds on the lower filter/screen? Circled in red.

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Couple questions. The 342DI fuel pump from highflowfuel has the blue top which appears to be the new repalcement for old 342 model as it is now stamped 342di. The pdf you created I believe references the white top one as original 342. Couple questions as I hear oem pump running but an inline t with my gauge gives me no psi. I replaced filters internally already and if I complete loop with fuel pump supply and return lines I still have zero pressure during key on and trying to crank. Even holding finger over high output line I feel hardly nothing. I assume the pump is internally clogged / defective as very little fuel flows out line. Note I even took the canister filter out the loop and have lines open and feel hardly nothing.

1. I assume oem pump I should be able to just crank and shoot fuel out the supply line as it is not even hooked to rail. Am I assuming correctly?

2. Is this new pump still require the fuel line/brass fitting extension or can old extension be removed and fitted to new pump?

3. Also I picked up kn1300 205psi inline canister filter. Do u know if this is good for the gph fuel flow of stock filter or could that cause flow restrictions?

I want to confirm before replacing the oem pump this is defenitly the problem. The supply vane on top of pump at the spring assembly seems to make good contact and slides fairly easily by pressing by hand the whole assembly by hand out the tank. Wondering if this could be an issue though and pump is actually good. Or should I just replace with new pump I have in hand?

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Couple questions. The 342DI fuel pump from highflowfuel has the blue top which appears to be the new repalcement for old 342 model as it is now stamped 342di. The pdf you created I believe references the white top one as original 342. Couple questions as I hear oem pump running but an inline t with my gauge gives me no psi. I replaced filters internally already and if I complete loop with fuel pump supply and return lines I still have zero pressure during key on and trying to crank. Even holding finger over high output line I feel hardly nothing. I assume the pump is internally clogged / defective as very little fuel flows out line. Note I even took the canister filter out the loop and have lines open and feel hardly nothing.

1. I assume oem pump I should be able to just crank and shoot fuel out the supply line as it is not even hooked to rail. Am I assuming correctly?

2. Is this new pump still require the fuel line/brass fitting extension or can old extension be removed and fitted to new pump?

3. Also I picked up kn1300 205psi inline canister filter. Do u know if this is good for the gph fuel flow of stock filter or could that cause flow restrictions?

I want to confirm before replacing the oem pump this is defenitly the problem. The supply vane on top of pump at the spring assembly seems to make good contact and slides fairly easily by pressing by hand the whole assembly by hand out the tank. Wondering if this could be an issue though and pump is actually good. Or should I just replace with new pump I have in hand?

Rated 18gpm 205psi fuel filter fyi...

 

[DooWacka]

Before the current 342DI pump HFF offered a few others, one being the "white top" 342-RTN (which was actually for a Ford Mustang). The RTN pump drew about 9A power compared to the 342DI only drawing about 6A.
I would try and test your pump outside the module, just in a container of fuel (be careful). This would eliminate any problems with your install. The "sliding seal" can be finicky and leak if damaged or tilted a bit.
1. Yes, the OEM pump shoot plenty. I once tested it to over 160 psi before I got chicken and disconnected, but it was still climbing strong.
2. All of the 342DI pumps have the extension already attached, so no need to fabricate what I showed.
3. That filter looks fine.

As I said, check your OEM and new pumps outside the module to really see what is going on.

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

1. Are you using anything to seal the electric connection that is submerged in fuel on these new fuel pumps? I feel this would make connection and either short out or not work if not?
2. Plastic support plate for fuel pump has a hole actually larger not smaller than oem. What is good tape or sealant I could use to lock this in place? Something possibly semi permanent so it can be removed and reused in future?
All this is submerged in fuel so I need something for that application.

Thanks

 

[DooWacka]

Electrical connections obviously need to be tight and electrically insulated, but not sealed from the fuel. This is common in fuel submerged connections.
The plastic support just needs to keep the pump "centered" in the module so it doesn't flop around and cause leakage at the sliding seal. I have "shaved" the hole larger for some pumps, and built new ones for others, but there is no special tape or sealant I know of that would survive the fuel.

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

The sliding seal that connections to top of fuel pump and has spring and assembly. Doesn't this stay compressed fully when in the fuel tank on ski ? This is what I assume keeps a good seal along with that rubber grommet/bushing and doesnt actually slide during operation?

I went ahead and installed new pump in housing already as I never seen alert till now on the forum. Waiting for the thread sealant to set up fully before I do any tests and drop back in.

Do u know what the amp draw is on oem pump? And available capacity on the system? I know it's very little but I'm trying to see if I'm going to need to carry spare battery around if this thing not going charge due to increased draw. I waiting on them to advise what current drawn is for this new one.. I can't imagine putting larger battery like 4tec has would hurt anything do u?

 

[DooWacka]

The spring keeps the module on the bottom of the tank. It isn't compressed much. The sliding seal doesn't need to move much during all normal operation. The module is constructed with a foot valve that keeps the module full even when the tank is near empty.

The OEM pump draw is about 4 to 5 A. The magneto at full output is about 18A. the HFF 342DI draws about 6 to 7 A. What I have found is that if the ride contains less idling (no charge to battery) and more riding at higher throttle, then the battery gets more charging.

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Have you been able to find spec sheet on there website? I emailed them and they tell me 11amps at 45psi which doesn't sound correct at all. I asked them for max draw which to me it would draw the most at the highest psi not 45psi...

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Also I know this is off topic but my two piece molded oil tank starting to leak at seams. Any recommendations on repair? I was thinking spray the joint with some flex seal spray all the way around. Looking for inexpensive quick solution as I'm trying to get back on the water.

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Ok so I'm not getting much pressure out the hoses, my gauge isn't building only small amount of fuel. Testing outside the ski off battery and bucket of fuel. It appears the fuel shoots up the sliding tube but is dumping ton of fuel right back in the canister from the three holes on the top around the sliding tube. Sorry I'm don't have the proper term for this.

I blue air thru the sliding tube before assembly with my compressor and shot out the hose the same psi. So is this rubber bushing bad? It really appears it's not shooting from there but just dumping back in.

This happens when I compress the spring assembly and without doing it there isn't much change.

I am guessing this bushing is the culprit. What parts do i need to remove spring and bypass this?

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Upon further investigation I hooked air compressor straight to sliding tube at top of assembly and air comes right back thru the three holes around the tube. Hardly no air coming out hoses supply or return. My assumption is this valve assembly at top is gone?? Anyone able to clarify?

And is there any solution to repair this?

 

[Mwhitlock1984]

Upon further investigation I hooked air compressor straight to sliding tube at top of assembly and air comes right back thru the three holes around the tube. Hardly no air coming out hoses supply or return. My assumption is this valve assembly at top is gone?? Anyone able to clarify?

And is there any solution to repair this?

Anyone able to clarify on this? There is no connection between the supply and return hose (top portion of fuel assembly) correct?

 

[DooWacka]

You are not making a lot of sense.
In a normal assembly the pump circulates fuel through the fuel/air rail and extra fuel returns to the module in the tank through the top holes.
If you don't have the 107 psi when testing the pump by itself outside the module then it won't work. Remember, you have to have a throttling valve to force the pump in the re-circulation loop to reach at least 107 psi.
The oil tank leaks should be put in a different thread.
All the seals I have tried don't last long. I have come to welding HDPE rod into the seam, and that even has some leaks over time. It was just a bad design.