Seadoo - alternative service products & retro-fits

[BOND007]

Hi,

I now have a 1998 GTX Limited and have just passed the 100 hour-mark and the ski is just fantastic.

I got some useful info about alternative 2-stroke oils on the forum, but unfortunately I could not find the brands listed here in Australia. However, for the record, I found another brand that is readily available, and it is called Penrite Hi-Per. Like the other brands mentioned, it specifically states on the information data that it is approved for SeaDoo 2-strokes. I rang the local SeaDoo agent and he agreed it was an identical oil. It is around 1/4 the cost of locally-available SeaDoo oil with identical specifications.Just passing this on in the hope that it helps someone.

On a similar theme, can anyone advise a suitable replacement for the SeaDoo Bombardier engine lube? (also prohibitively expensive here). I understand WD40-type products are not suitable but surely there are quality lubricants that will do the same job? My local mechanic advises 10-seconds of Bombardier lube down the intake on fast idle while flushing. Is this recommended? Can't find any reference in the manual.

How often should the engine be 'fogged' and should this be done with the SeDoo lubricant or can a light engine oil do the same job? Should the lubricant/oil be left to settle for a period before turning the engine over?
Should the engine then be re-started briefly immediately after the plugs are replaced?

I have noticed original SeaDoo DESS lanyards available on the internet for around $US75. Will a SeaDoo dealer still program one of these if it hasn't been bought from them? Are there any known problems going this route? Locally dealers want $300+ for these, plus programming fee

Has anyone had experience retro-fitting the rear spring-step? When fitted as OE, I notice the steps are bolted through the transom. This is pretty much impossible as a retro-fit. So the question is can you get a secure mount with self-tappers or self-sacrifice type screws or do you need an expanding inner retainer-type bolt or some other special fitting. And regardless what type of sealant do you apply to ensure it doesn't leak?

I am also interested in retro-fitting wakeboard mounts to the side rails. Has anyone had experience with these? There is less loading on these than the spring-steps, but I wouldn't want one to damage the hull anyway.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Info?......

Wow dude!..........way to much info to absorb in one sitting. These questions would probably do better, broken into individual threads.

But, I'll help as I can.

Fogging.........In my opinion, it's not as necessary as it's made out to be. It's design is to coat the metal component so that when it's not being used, it's protected from rust. So any light oil will serve the purpose.

I use lithium grease spray for all my external parts. Pump linkages throttle and chokes........anything that moves. It's white, so not very pretty. But, to preserve the metal from moisture, I don't know of a better product.

Don't spray anything down the intake while flushing. This is a dealership mechanic that seems to be trying to make things appear difficult so that you'll be more inclined to bring it back to him.

The DESS.......I'm shocked at their rip off price!.........here, you can go to a local Seadoo dealer, buy the lanyard from them for less than $100 USD and they'll program it for free!......If your having a problem with this feature, I would look at the post first. The post is something that will stop working before the lanyard will. And it's something you can buy, install yourself and not have to worry about programming.

Spring step, wake board mounts?............sorry, that's over my head. I'm just a mechanic..............:cheers:

 

[BOND007]

Response to super-snipe

HI thanks for the info. Noted your advice in breaking down the thread content. Problem with a newcomer! Is this the correct section of the forum to post these queries - you have some notation on the bottom of your post?

Looking at the parts pricing on the forum website and reading lots of threads, it is obvious we are being badly gouged here in Australia by the local brp distributors. You are correct about the value of the DESS (I see listed as only $54 on the forum parts list) and other stuff. They want $700+ for a spring step - plus fitting! and they charge $36 for a spraycan of bombardier lube. The lithium spray you mentioned is available here for around $9-11. They charge nearly $40 for a litre of oil and exactly the same product from Penrite (a very reputable and experience brand) is $11-13.Hence my request for alternatives!!

I would be interested to know what a 100-hour service costs in the States. hee they quote $A400 - plus parts, plus extra labour on any problems encountered.

Thanks also for the advice on lubing while flushing. It doesn't feel right to me and the engine 'runs dead' when you do it.

My unit appears to be running perfectly tuned with plugs showing at your Number 14 in your excellent tuning and spark plug guide. It has plenty of power but uses very little fuel and oil - 27litres of fuel after 6 hours of water-skiing/wakeboarding.

We have a bit of a problem here in that many gas stations are converting to 10% ehtanol in their standard (91 octane) unleaded pumps. Do you think it is a problem using this %age ethanol fuel? Would it be preferable to move-up to a Premium Unleaded (95 octane or 98 octane) or is that also a no-no.?
On holidays I had to travel nearly 30km to find a gas station with standard unleaded.

Thanks again for your spot-on advice.
Rob

 

[nswillin]

Wow, that's expensive there. I'm going to butt in a little but SeadooSnipe will elaborate a little more on this next time he is online.

Here is a typical 100 hour service:
Carburetor adjustment including choke/throttle cable adjustments and linkage
Fuel injector sensors verification (RFI)
RAVE valve cleaning (787 RFI and 947 engines)
Engine counterbalance shaft oil level (787 RFI and 947 engines)
Water flow regulator valve inspection (787 RFI and 947 engines)
Oil injection pump adjustment
Engine ignition timing
Fuel filter and oil filter replacement
Engine head bolts or nuts, retorque
Reverse system/reverse cable adjustment (if applicable)
Fuel/oil lines, check valve and hose inspection, fuel system pressurization
Jet pump oil replacement
Jet pump cover pusher inspection
Hull condition

All these things can easily be done yourself and all these procedures are in the Seadoo shop manual. You can save a ton of money doing these things yourself. You can get the manuals here with the premium membership which is a great deal if you want the manuals and the quickest advice.

Almost all the fuel here in the US is 10% ethonol, no problems there. Seadoo recommends that you never experiment with other fuels or fuel ratios. Never use fuel containing more than 10% alcohol, (ethanol or methanol). Also, recommended fuel is for use regular is unleaded gasoline with 87
octane.
I wouldn't go higher than 87 oct.

Hope that helps.:cheers:

 

[BOND007]

Response to Ryan

Thanks Ryan, mine of useful info. Will follow-up on the ideas.

For the record the LOWEST octane fuel you can buy in Australia now is 91-92 octane standard unleaded. Some with 10% ethanol, some without. If the ethanol is included the octane goes up to 93. The Aust Govt has limited the amount of ethanol by law to 10%. So the only way you would get more is from one of the unscrupulous independents. Obviously you avoid those.
So to sum-up, our lowest standard unleaded is 91-92 and our lowest ethanol 10% unleaded is 93. Some of the major brands ( e.g. Mobil) also include a corrosion inhibitor and a detergent additive. These are designed for the fuel injection and valve system on 4-stroke cars so not sure if these are also a negative for the Rotax motor.
Safe SeaDoo-ing
Rob

 

[seadoodude1]

how to check CB oil in 98 GSXL 947?

Here is a typical 100 hour service:
...
Engine counterbalance shaft oil level (787 RFI and 947 engines)
...

All these things can easily be done yourself and all these procedures are in the Seadoo shop manual.

...

Hope that helps.:cheers:

I have looked and searching on google about how to check this oil in the CB chamber of a 947 engine. Most every reference is to rebuilding the engine. My engines are in the hull and I just want to check the oil level and quality and top it off if needed. I found the plug under the water return fitting and it looks difficult to get to with an allen wrench. Here are my questions:

1) Can it be done with engine in hull and are there any tools that make this job easier?

2) The plug is on the low outside edge of case. Is the oil level checked with the engine tilted as it's installed in the ski or is the correct level when the pistons are vertical as if the engine were removed from the hull and sitting on a bench?

3) Should the oil be changed or just checked for color and topped off?

4) I know specs call for a volume of 40ml. I don't know how much is in there so that is a useless number unless I drain it out. Is it full when it's up to the plug hole?

5) Can I add gear oil or 30wt to the oil that is already in there of unknown type?


I have asked this question several times on another forum but no one addresses the specific procedure to do this.

http://pwctoday.com/f15/how-check-cb-oil-98-gsxl-947-a-219329.html

I am hoping someone here has the procedure to share.

Thanks, jeff