I have a 1998 Sea Doo GTI that I recently had a friend do a new gasket job on the carbs. It works great now, however, he tampered with the needle that allows rich fuel vs. air intake (I don't remember the technical name, but it's the needle that adjusts how much fuel to air come in on start up). The jet ski starts up great on a cold start, immediately after I hit the switch. However, I killed the battery trying to get it to start up after re-fueling, as I have to hold the start button as I give it a 1/4 squeeze of the throttle. After hooking it up to a charger it still took me 10 minutes to get it going. Please help!!! Before he tampered with it it would take about 30-60 seconds to start on a cold start and would start right up after running a few minutes (warm start). How can I make it so it will start up each time I hit start, or is that asking too much? Thanks in advance.
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Sea Doo starts up on cold start, but not after running...
- Thread starter lyver
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It's a Rotomax 2-stroke engine. I think what happened is that when the new gaskets got put in that he didn't put the needle in correctly. After reading another post this is how I understand it....
"If you replaced the big round rubber diaphrams, is the tip on the new diaphram resting on the needle valve lever after you installed the metal covers back onto the carbs ? If so, you need to bend the levers down so the tip on the diaphram is not in contact with the lever in each carb. This is a very common solution to your problem after installing a carb rebuild kit"
Does that sound correct?
"If you replaced the big round rubber diaphrams, is the tip on the new diaphram resting on the needle valve lever after you installed the metal covers back onto the carbs ? If so, you need to bend the levers down so the tip on the diaphram is not in contact with the lever in each carb. This is a very common solution to your problem after installing a carb rebuild kit"
Does that sound correct?
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
If you replaced the diaphragm in the carb... and it's not a actual Mikuni part... that is your problem. The aftermarket diaphragms SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The bellows are too thick, and as soon as you tighten down the cover... it will push the needle off the seat a little. Not enough to effect how the engine runs... but enough that when you shut off the engine... it will pour the remaining fuel into the engine, making it hard to restart warm.
Do not bend the arm. If you bend the arm, you will change the pressure of the spring under it.. and in turn, you will change your pop-off pressure. That arm should be flush with the inside of the carb body. Also, if you bend the arm down... you will limit how far the needle and seat can poen... and you may starve the engine at higher RPM's. (potently causing a lean run, and melting the engine)
Get the FREE Mikuni SBN carb book, and read it. you can cause a lot of damage to a 2-stroke engine if it's not tuned properly.
I'm not trying to be harsh... I'm just trying to make you understand that things need to be right if you want a reliable ski.
Do not bend the arm. If you bend the arm, you will change the pressure of the spring under it.. and in turn, you will change your pop-off pressure. That arm should be flush with the inside of the carb body. Also, if you bend the arm down... you will limit how far the needle and seat can poen... and you may starve the engine at higher RPM's. (potently causing a lean run, and melting the engine)
Get the FREE Mikuni SBN carb book, and read it. you can cause a lot of damage to a 2-stroke engine if it's not tuned properly.
I'm not trying to be harsh... I'm just trying to make you understand that things need to be right if you want a reliable ski.
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