RXDI 2002 idels good but thats it. Need some real good adwises!

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Kristoffer84

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I have an RXDI 2002 that idles good on land. The second I give it gas, it dies out. If you puch the throttle very very sensitive you can get it to run up to over 6000 rpm on land. In water it´s very hard to get started at all. This fault is coursed by a flipp a year ago. When they flipped with it they removed the spark plugs and ran it dry. Then they took it to a dealer that took care of the rest. The dealers BUDS don´t show any fault codes. The machine it selves don´t throw any code. The dealer has no more thoughts of what could be wrong.

I´ve checked the comp. and it´s good on booth cyl.

I´ve checked the fuel pressure to the air/fuel rail and it was 107 psi as it should be and it´s constant even when you throttle

I´ve also checked the air compressor and cleand the air intake to it, it works as it should.

I´ve checked the RAVE system and haven´t found any faults.

When you remove the spark plugs they are very sooty on both of the cylinders. I get the feeling that it gets to mutch fuel, if you compere to the amount of air it should have.

If it don´t gets the amount of air it should, it could be sevral things:

Has anyone had problems with their reed valves? One theory I have at the moment is that the reed valves is open on both cyl. so that the internal pressure in engine isen´t enough to keep the air flow up when you start to throttle...


If there is something wrong with the TPS shouldn't´t you get an indication from the meps then?
Isen´t very odd if both TPS sensors fails at the same time? Or even if something is wrong with the air sensors shouldn´t you get an alarm?


I don´t get the feeling that this is an wirering problem on my machine. When you throttle the machine it feels like the choke is on. The only problem is that the DI machine dosen´t work like that.
 
Lets start with the sensors. If the dealer had it hooked to the BUDS system... then he can read the output of the sensors. He would be able to see if they are bad. AND... as you said... you would get a code.

So, at the moment we will rule them out.

The reeds. Yes... without a doubt, they could have been damaged. I would remove the reed cages, and check them out.

You say the compression is good. What was the pressure?

You say the air compressor is good... what is it's pressure?


Interesting comment about the choke. It has a choke... but it's electronic, and just richens up the fuel mix. Has the temp sender been checked? Maybe the computer thinks it's trying to start in -10 degree weather.


Just some random thoughts.
 
Thankes for answer!

Intresting thoughts you have.

I don´t know if the the temp sensors has ben checked. Were does the choke get it´s inputs value from? The air temp sensor or the engine temp sensor?

How sensity is the air/fuel rail to the exact value of air pressure? and would a low pressure give sooty plugs?

I don´t really remember the exact compression, I have to make a new test then. But i rember that it was even on both cylinders and nothing that i reflacted on.

In an other thread i saw that the DI engine just idle on one cylinder. Could it be the injector on the MAG cylinder that is behaving wired? Can you make some tests execept the ohm test on the fuel injectors? Is it common that they give up due to a flipp? But this dosen´t really explain the sooty sparke plugs on both cyl. or does it?
 
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Update!!

Today I removed the reedvalves from my machine and found that two reed plats, one on eatch cylinder was damaged. I get the new ones tomorrow. I hope this settles my problems..

set


http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...0254059655588.329183.726630587&type=1&theater
 
Update!

Today I removed the reed valves from my pwc. One reed plate on eatch cylinder is missing. I get the new plates tomorrow, hope this settles the problems...


IMG_1477.JPGIMG_1479.JPG
 
That's not good.

So the real question is... where's the reed?? If they are carbon, or fiberglass... the engine will just pass it out. If it's stainless or spring steel... it's going to cause an issue.
 
That's not good.

So the real question is... where's the reed?? If they are carbon, or fiberglass... the engine will just pass it out. If it's stainless or spring steel... it's going to cause an issue.

I agree thats the real question!

They are made of carbon so that is possitive and I can´t find them with compressed air and a vaccumcleaner from the intake. I can´t feel anything odd in the engien with my fingers. I did find some parts in the air intake. Hopefully the rest is gone by now, only one way to find out!

I be back with a update soon...
 
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After changing the reed blades the scooter works great.

Hope ully this theread will help some people with the same issue after flipping.
 
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