Resurrecting a 95 SPI

[thewvsignguy]

So I got a battery and charging it as I type. I plan adding new fuel and putting new plugs in tomorrow too. :thumbsup:

Long story short: http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?59969-Hello!

So I'm wondering what I should check/do prior to cranking or starting this tomorrow? The previous owner did include the garden hose hook-up but I understand that it's not the same as a boat.

Should I try to get it to start then shut it off then hook it up the garden hose and get it up to temp?

The SPI's are very basic so no temp gauge or tach to monitor things and that kinda scares me. The previous owner did not take to much care in this doo so not sure (I really doubt it) it was winterized.

Thanks!

 

[ocod]

Hi,

Do yourself a favor and make sure you go through carbs and check for grey fuel lines.
If ski has been sitting changing/cleaning of gas would be wise since it debris/goo could clog internal carb filter thus causing good engine to be bad and ruin start of season

 

[mikidymac]

I would also add about a teaspoon of 2 stroke oil to each plug hole and turn it over by hand a few times then crank it a few times with the sparkplug caps on the orange ground tabs a few times just to get things lubed and moving before you fire it for the first time. Chances are there is some surface rust on the cylinders from sitting.

 

[thewvsignguy]

ocod, before I tried to start this doo I did read your posts to see see if I had the Grey fuel lines, well I do.

Did a search here and found out they need replaced.

So I went to the parts store this morning (good luck finding anything open Easter Sunday) and managed to get the 9ft of the 1/4 fuel line and the last 14 clamps they had in stock. I have to get more tomorrow to finish up.

So I'm changing over the lines but have a few questions:

1. There is a line coming from the tank that goes up to a "T" right by the fuel ON/OFF/RES knob. One of the "T's" goes under the dash handle bars and the other line goes out to the starboard side of the hull. Must I replace all these lines as well?

2. I looked in the barbs? on the carb to see if any gunk/goop was built up. I did not see any inside only green gunk around the outside. Should I still remove the carb and clean with carb cleaner, I thought I read about a screen somewhere that should get cleaned. If the carb does need removed do I need a gasket set to reinstall it?

3. On the top of the carb where the air filter base attached to with the three allen head bolts. It had a red sealant and not a gasket, what was that or what can I use to reseal the two?

4. See attached pictures. On top of the oil tank is a piece that "T's" one end goes oil into the tank, the second going to the oil pump on the engine and the third looks like a filter that goes to nothing. Looking under the seat in the other picture there is a tube that leads out the port side of the ski. Is that line a overflow and should the two be connected?

5. The gas smelled like turpentine, Does the tank need drained or will fresh gas mixed with the stale stuff be OK?

mikidymac do I need to put the oil in right before I start the engine or is it OK to leave it in for a few days until I get the fuel line sorted? Will it hurt anything leaving the oil in there?

 

[thewvsignguy]

Oh I forgot to mention that my choke cable is really hard to pull/push. I shot some PB blast in on both sides but its not getting any better so does anyone have a choke cable they would sell me for a reasonable price? I'll also need the two plastic plates needed to attach it to the dash, the top was MIA when I bought the ski I do have the bottom and the screw though.

Thanks!

 

[ocod]

ocod, before I tried to start this doo I did read your posts to see see if I had the Grey fuel lines, well I do.

Did a search here and found out they need replaced.

So I went to the parts store this morning (good luck finding anything open Easter Sunday) and managed to get the 9ft of the 1/4 fuel line and the last 14 clamps they had in stock. I have to get more tomorrow to finish up.

So I'm changing over the lines but have a few questions:

1. There is a line coming from the tank that goes up to a "T" right by the fuel ON/OFF/RES knob. One of the "T's" goes under the dash handle bars and the other line goes out to the starboard side of the hull. Must I replace all these lines as well?

No not really. That is a vent for gas but worth it to put all new.

2. I looked in the barbs? on the carb to see if any gunk/goop was built up. I did not see any inside only green gunk around the outside. Should I still remove the carb and clean with carb cleaner, I thought I read about a screen somewhere that should get cleaned. If the carb does need removed do I need a gasket set to reinstall it?

Yes, completely dissamble. There is a small internal filter.

3. On the top of the carb where the air filter base attached to with the three allen head bolts. It had a red sealant and not a gasket, what was that or what can I use to reseal the two?

Silicone should be fine or buy gasket. Its air before intake.

4. See attached pictures. On top of the oil tank is a piece that "T's" one end goes oil into the tank, the second going to the oil pump on the engine and the third looks like a filter that goes to nothing. Looking under the seat in the other picture there is a tube that leads out the port side of the ski. Is that line a overflow and should the two be connected?

Probably battery vent line

5. The gas smelled like turpentine, Does the tank need drained or will fresh gas mixed with the stale stuff be OK?

For sure. No sense wasting good gas

It's too help on start up once everything above is done.



Make sure to change oil to correct API-TC while your at.

I may have a choke cable that should work. Have to check

 

[thewvsignguy]

ocod, before I tried to start this doo I did read your posts to see see if I had the Grey fuel lines, well I do.

Did a search here and found out they need replaced.

So I went to the parts store this morning (good luck finding anything open Easter Sunday) and managed to get the 9ft of the 1/4 fuel line and the last 14 clamps they had in stock. I have to get more tomorrow to finish up.

So I'm changing over the lines but have a few questions:

1. There is a line coming from the tank that goes up to a "T" right by the fuel ON/OFF/RES knob. One of the "T's" goes under the dash handle bars and the other line goes out to the starboard side of the hull. Must I replace all these lines as well?

No not really. That is a vent for gas but worth it to put all new.

2. I looked in the barbs? on the carb to see if any gunk/goop was built up. I did not see any inside only green gunk around the outside. Should I still remove the carb and clean with carb cleaner, I thought I read about a screen somewhere that should get cleaned. If the carb does need removed do I need a gasket set to reinstall it?

Yes, completely dissamble. There is a small internal filter.

3. On the top of the carb where the air filter base attached to with the three allen head bolts. It had a red sealant and not a gasket, what was that or what can I use to reseal the two?

Silicone should be fine or buy gasket. Its air before intake.

4. See attached pictures. On top of the oil tank is a piece that "T's" one end goes oil into the tank, the second going to the oil pump on the engine and the third looks like a filter that goes to nothing. Looking under the seat in the other picture there is a tube that leads out the port side of the ski. Is that line a overflow and should the two be connected?

Probably battery vent line

5. The gas smelled like turpentine, Does the tank need drained or will fresh gas mixed with the stale stuff be OK?

For sure. No sense wasting good gas



It's too help on start up once everything above is done.



Make sure to change oil to correct API-TC while your at.

I may have a choke cable that should work. Have to check

 

[thewvsignguy]

Thanks for the help and reply. Just pm me the specifics for the cable. Ill update agian when i get the rest of the fuel lines on.

 

[racerxxx]

If you need the small hose clamps, hit your local Home Depot they have full stainless ones by the brass fittings in the isle with the sump pumps and rubber and poly tubing and sink traps etc.... Lowes' has them but the screw is not stainless so that will in time rust. At HD they come in a bag of 10 for roughly $7

 

[thewvsignguy]

If you need the small hose clamps, hit your local Home Depot they have full stainless ones by the brass fittings in the isle with the sump pumps and rubber and poly tubing and sink traps etc.... Lowes' has them but the screw is not stainless so that will in time rust. At HD they come in a bag of 10 for roughly $7

Thanks for the heads up, but I live out in the boonies and no HD only a LOWES 10 miles away. I'll head back to the parts store today to pick up the rest of the fuel line and clamps.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I have the choke cable if you need it.

 

[thewvsignguy]

Can I find the API-TC and the SeaDoo dealer or what other brand to you recommend?

I'll assume that the 2-stroke oil I use in my outboard is not the same as needed in the seadoo. The previous owner did leave a half full quart in the front storage compartment for me, the oil tank in the doo is about full too!

Let me know about the choke cable when you get the chance, I want to get this back together asap.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[thewvsignguy]

I have the choke cable if you need it.

How much? PM me if you like.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Can I find the API-TC and the SeaDoo dealer or what other brand to you recommend?

I'll assume that the 2-stroke oil I use in my outboard is not the same as needed in the seadoo. The previous owner did leave a half full quart in the front storage compartment for me, the oil tank in the doo is about full too!

Let me know about the choke cable when you get the chance, I want to get this back together asap.

Thanks for all the help!

Correct, the two oils are NOT the same. Drain it and replace with real 2 stroke PWC oil.... ASAP. don't run it anymore with that oil in it.

 

[ocod]

Can I find the API-TC and the SeaDoo dealer or what other brand to you recommend?

I'll assume that the 2-stroke oil I use in my outboard is not the same as needed in the seadoo. The previous owner did leave a half full quart in the front storage compartment for me, the oil tank in the doo is about full too!

Let me know about the choke cable when you get the chance, I want to get this back together asap.

Thanks for all the help!

Yes, but so does a Walmart.
It's a grey jug with pink label by by Quicksilver

 

[thewvsignguy]

Sorry trying to send PM's but for some reason it's not sending? Or at least my messages are not under my sent folder.:banghead: If your getting them my apologies for the multiple messages

I'll look for the Quicksilver PWC oil tonight when picking up more fuel line and clamps.

What about the pump oil? I'll bet it wold be wise to replace that as well.

I never got people that have nice things and run them into ground just to rot away.....:facepalm:

 

[ocod]

Sorry trying to send PM's but for some reason it's not sending? Or at least my messages are not under my sent folder.:banghead: If your getting them my apologies for the multiple messages

I'll look for the Quicksilver PWC oil tonight when picking up more fuel line and clamps.

What about the pump oil? I'll bet it wold be wise to replace that as well.

I never got people that have nice things and run them into ground just to rot away.....:facepalm:

Might as well and take 4 more bolts off and take pump off.
Then you'll need an impeller tool from ebay for 10+ bucks to take that off to check bearings.

Then you have everything covered

:hurray:

 

[thewvsignguy]

Might as well and take 4 more bolts off and take pump off.
Then you'll need an impeller tool from ebay for 10+ bucks to take that off to check bearings.

Then you have everything covered

:hurray:

Yea, but I don't even know if this thing is gonna start or run!

I do enjoy tinkering but if I had a shop manual I might feel better about getting to the guts of this ski. I don't think it's really complicated machine but I just need to hear this thing run before I dump any more money into it.

I checked my local WM and they do not sell any PWC oil, I went by the Advanced Auto Parts today and they have no PWC oil as well. I do have a Seadoo dealer 10 minutes away, I'll just have to suck it up and pay through the nose for some engine oil I guess.

 

[ocod]

Yea, but I don't even know if this thing is gonna start or run!

I do enjoy tinkering but if I had a shop manual I might feel better about getting to the guts of this ski. I don't think it's really complicated machine but I just need to hear this thing run before I dump any more money into it.

I checked my local WM and they do not sell any PWC oil, I went by the Advanced Auto Parts today and they have no PWC oil as well. I do have a Seadoo dealer 10 minutes away, I'll just have to suck it up and pay through the nose for some engine oil I guess.

Its not specific to the PWC.
Look for a grey jug w/pink label that says two stroke oil.

looks like this
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/92...paign=google&gclid=CPz4nZPdqrYCFQuxnQoduz0ABg

 

[racerxxx]

Yea, but I don't even know if this thing is gonna start or run!

I do enjoy tinkering but if I had a shop manual I might feel better about getting to the guts of this ski. I don't think it's really complicated machine but I just need to hear this thing run before I dump any more money into it.

Cough, Cough, Google, Cough, Cough, Seadoo Manual Cough Cough. Ahhhh, Ahhhh--first link--chooo

 

[racerxxx]

I'll just have to suck it up and pay through the nose for some engine oil I guess.

I just checked the price for the pink label Quick silver and it's $28, I think the XPS mineral oil is $32. $4 more is hardly through the nose, if that is the correct price for the QS oil.

 

[thewvsignguy]

Cough, Cough, Google, Cough, Cough, Seadoo Manual Cough Cough. Ahhhh, Ahhhh--first link--chooo

Dude! You Rock:thumbsup:

Why did I have to pay $60 for my paperback engine manual??

BTW you might want to get that cough/sneeze looked at.....

 

[ocod]

I just checked the price for the pink label Quick silver and it's $28, I think the XPS mineral oil is $32. $4 more is hardly through the nose, if that is the correct price for the QS oil.

Sounds right.
Just stick with which ever one is easily available.

Some oils don't mix and clog inline filter.

 

[thewvsignguy]

I just have to get it on-line. WM will not even allow me to ship to store either. So the quicksilver PWC oil is OK to use?

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Dude! You Rock:thumbsup:

Why did I have to pay $60 for my paperback engine manual??

BTW you might want to get that cough/sneeze looked at.....

Actually $60 is a good price if you got the one issued by BRP. One good thing about a paper version is that you can refer to it in the garage or shop w/o a computer next to you.
I got a manual for my 99 off this site then had it printed at Office max