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RESTO Restoring Barn-found 1996 XP 800

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libertcat

libertcat

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Picked up from Craigslist broken XP800. Doesn't run, most parts are unbolted and piled up in bilge. Insides are full of oil, grime and something that used to be alive. But too good of a deal. $500 with trailer. Guy said if I can't make it work, trailer is worth it...
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Pretty nasty inside.
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Looks nice the people here will point you in the right direction to get the result your looking for. Good luck
 
dolly

Trailer barely fits into garage, so one of the first projects was to build smaller dolly. Also trailer needs to go to inspection and weight station to get it registered. So, ski has to live somewhere else for a while.

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really? it had been modified, but I am not sure how.
Anyway, after cleaning everything, connecting everything back that I could think of, changing all the tubing for water, gas and oil (thing was converted to premix, so oil is for rotary valve only) it still didn't run.... Following steps were to rebuild carbs, still didn't run. For no reason took the rotary valve off and realize it was installed in the opposite direction - 180 degrees off!! replaced rotary valve, set up timing it fired up right away!!!
Restored aftermarket flame arresters, tidied up hoses and wires, painted few parts. Now it looks like this. Runs nicely, start right away, I think somebody rebuilt the engine and installed the rotary valve backwards, couldn't make it run and gave up on the project.
Photo Jan 26, 5 43 12 PM (1).jpg
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I had a long story with rebuild of exhaust water flow regulator using bicycle tire patch kit... But main project now is electrical... The only gauge that works are RPMs. Rest seem pretty dysfunctional. Main one has all lights on. Low gas is on, low oil is on, engine temp is on, battery is on!! All the time. Oil sensor is gone, so that is understandable, but gas and temp is def faulty... wondering if problem is in the box or the gauge unit...
 
libertcat said:
MAG 150psi, PTO 147psi, seems pretty good :)
Click to expand...
Definitely worth a little time and $ to get it all sorted out then. As for your gauges, I would guess the fuel float is one issue and possibly the entire multi function gauge needing replaced.

Is your VTS working at all? If yes, then there are some instructions on here somewhere for testing the signal going to the gauge.
 
Oh, cool idea. Yes, VTS working, will try to test if signal to the computer is good (I remember seeing in the manual I downloaded something about testing it). When I was cleaning gas tank, float seemed to move nicely and freely, doesn't mean its functional but I lean towards broken gauge so far.
 
There is a magnet inside the vts which sends a signal to the gauge. Those magnets can get knocked off and gauge no longer reads. There are probably tons of threads on it here. The site search blows, so anything u want to find just go to Google and type what you want to search then site:seadooforum.com
 
The F1 fuse in the top of the sending unit has a tendency to blow and the flaot have a tendency to leakm I have seen multiple issues in one sending unit also.
 
So, I cut red wire that goes from rectifier to black box with fuses, and connected voltmeter to that red wire. Started the engine and voltage jumps between -2 and -4 V ... wiered :/... either rectifier is bad or coils in the engine?
 
Totally confused. Test is volts off the battery, not the rectifier. Rectifier needs to be hooked up to test.

If the beeper beeps when you put the key on but doesnt constantly beep....your gauge is prob bad. The temp light is the tell tale. If your magnet was attached to the float the sender is prob fine. you can put an ohm meter on that and if its not open and reading something...its likely ok.

Looks like its been maintained, always good to find new fuel lines.
 
rectifier was connected, except for the red wire. Engine running. Measuring voltage between ground and that red wire. ... Just measured resistance between yellow wires that come out of magneto. Infinity between 2, and 1kOm to the third one. That one is also shorted to the ground, so need new stator... will get to disassembling everything.
 
No, what Nick is saying with the red wire unhooked measure the voltage at the battery with it running.

If the rectifier is bad with everything connected you will typically see high voltage at the battery like 15+ volts and it will run like crap. Then when you unhook the red wire from the rectifier it typically runs good and you will see the normal 12 volts at the battery but you are just running off the battery now and it is not charging.

When the rectifier goes bad it outputs AC power not DC power and causes the MPEM to freak out from my understanding.
 
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I see! Gotcha! Yeah, with red wire still hooked up, power is 12.6V at the battery if engine is at rest, and 12.4V if engine is running. It is running very nicely as far as I can tell with or without red wire. I think it is running on the battery and charging system is not working. Yes, I see, if rectifying diodes will just turn into conductors (melt in a funky way), rectifier will output AC instead of DC and AC amplitude will increase with increasing rpms. If diodes burn in such a way that they don't conduct anything at all, then rectifier will just output nothing. But after I measured resistances of the stator (various combinations between three yellow wires) I am convinced coils are toast :/ trying to get to them now....
Photo Feb 04, 8 51 24 PM.jpg
My pretty engine is turning into bunch of little bags
Photo Feb 04, 8 51 49 PM.jpg
 
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