Replacing Fuel lines on RX

[boatrboy]

I purchased a project 2000 RX (carb'ed) with a blown rear cylinder. Trying to get to the root before having motor rebuilt. After reading many posts here I confirmed the infamous deterioration of the fuel lines. I pulled what looks like seaweed out of the filter and and have cleaned it and the non/off/res valve. I will be pulling the carb's apart soon.

So without over analyzing this what type of lines are really needed? The manual states to use "B1" but several experienced guys here just recommend Napa gas lines. I went there but I don't know which rating is acceptable. West Marine sells the "B1" but at double the cost and its grey. I was told the the previous owner that he had the lines replaced but you can see from the photos below they are falling apart. Is the black hose just fine?

Also - I noticed the p.o. had no clamps on the fuel switch - are the standard worm clamps just fine?

I read I will need 15 ft of 5/16" and 5 ft of 1/4" - does that seem right?

Thanks for ant input you could provide this new guy

 

[Coastiejoe]

Regular black fuel line is fine.


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[boatrboy]

I read the manual procedure for removing the fuel tank and it requires removing the steering system (wow). Is it critical to remove and flush the tank or just keep checking filters after replacing the lines.

 

[LouDoo]

Personally I would remove the fuel tank only if the tank needed replacing. The gunk in the fuel lines is from the fuel lines breaking down because of the ethanol in the gasoline and this would not contaminate the fuel in the tank.

Looking at your pictures the fuel lines don't look bad. It's the grey tempo lines that need to be replaced, check and see if your lines have "tempo" marked on them, they may have already been replaced. I also noticed the your fuel lines don't have clamps, not sure why. When the grey temp fuel lines break down there's a green goo and I see no evidence.

Lou

 

[boatrboy]

Lou-the short lines at the Valve look like the are new with a uscg B1 hose - but you can see from my pic that it is decintigating - the one leaving the valve going to the carb is a tempo as are the 1/4" vent lines. The material in the pictures is more gray than green. This pic is already after I emptied the seaweed strings from the filter basket. I am going to add the clamps and change them all to be safe. I posted this to see what grade lines are really nessarry from people who have the experience doing this rather than me overthinking it
Thanks for the feedback - Mark

 

[Mickirig1]

Black regular fuel line is good. Clamps need to be 100% stainless steel. Wrap lines with electrical tape under clamps. at least 2-3 wraps. Install a fuel filter before the carb. Top of carb will tell you which line is in \ out. Arrows are on top of the carb where lines come in. Try to replace all the lines. The filter / water separator under the front hood needs cleaned too. Be careful of gasket. It fails all the time.

 

[boatrboy]

I finally purchased the fuel line and clamps. The motor is out, and I was crawling around preparing myself for replacing the lines. There is little room and I felt like a contortionist trying to get my hands on the lines at the fuel baffle/sender.

So for those who have changed these lines on an RX is there a trick? Is it worthwhile removing the glove box? If so the manual does really give me a clear idea on whats involved, any tips?

As always, I appreciate any input!

Mark

 

[1of500]

I finally purchased the fuel line and clamps. The motor is out, and I was crawling around preparing myself for replacing the lines. There is little room and I felt like a contortionist trying to get my hands on the lines at the fuel baffle/sender.

So for those who have changed these lines on an RX is there a trick? Is it worthwhile removing the glove box? If so the manual does really give me a clear idea on whats involved, any tips?

As always, I appreciate any input!

Mark

I removed the glove box and actually removed the baffle. If you use your old lines as a template you can cut the length you need and assemble most of the fuel system out of the boat don't forget to replace the selector

 

[boatrboy]

I removed the glove box and actually removed the baffle. If you use your old lines as a template you can cut the length you need and assemble most of the fuel system out of the boat don't forget to replace the selector

Any tips on removing glove box?

 

[Mickirig1]

My 2000 GTI's have trim fasteners with Philips heads on each corner. If they turn and not come up, pry the screw up. get replacements at the HELP section / fasteners in auto part stores. If not done yet, you can download the repair manual off Internet.

 

[boatrboy]

Thanks mick- I have the manual printed in color . It's different than yours - the manual states (after pulling screws) to put your hand in a plastic compartment and release clamps but I don't follow. I guess I will just dive in and see if I can feel the clips.

 

[Mickirig1]

Some stuff is just stuck because of age. Good luck with it.

 

[howie099]

Marine grade fuel cost about 5 times as much as automotive line. You can get away with auto quality since that system doesn't get inspected by the coast guard but if you want to be a boy scout use marine grade. I don't on my ski's only on my boat. I usually use zipties but auto grade fuel line is so thick you should use clamps. I use a lot of the fast fuel line on my ski. I use a few colors so I know how the fuel system runs and don't need to find the manual if I remove a few lines at a time. You forget sometimes where the lines come from..

 

[mikidymac]

The colored fuel line gets hard and brittle over the years unlike the black automotive.

I only use the good quality zipties with the stainless locking tab on the fuel lines and if you can get the panduit ziptie gun the job is super easy.

 

[howie099]

I never had the colored fuel line get brittle on me. It does stiffen up some but never split or crack. I buy the good USA made ones or at least that is what they tell me. I have had it on my Yamaha GP1200 for over 8 years now still going strong. I just like to see fuel flowing through it. Short attention span. I have seen the cheap stuff break real fast. I pretty much put that colored line on all my power sports..Snowmoblies, ATV's, & lawn equipment. Good zip ties are the key those cheap ones at like harbor fre..t break right off.

 

[boatrboy]

Well I finally finished replacing all the fuel lines. I did follow the manual procedure to remove the glove box and the plastic clips they refer to just need to be depressed toward the center of the box to allow the box to lift off the ski. It requires some gymnastics to get the cover off the shifter. My clips were broken by the previous owner so I will order new ones.

Some notes if you are doing this on a RX:
1) Fuel lines are 5/16 and 20 feet will probably do just fine-I bought the roll of 25 ft and have some left over
2) The return line is 1/4 and 5 ft will do this BUT... If you replace the vent lines that leave the baffle and go to the "Y" fitting and then to two vents on the hull, you will need another 6 ft.
3) The leftover of both sizes should now do the carb lines. The pulse line is also 1/4 and the leftover should cover this.

I used a label maker and made labels to wrap around the lines with a description of where each end goes. I don't know if they will hold up but now it looks professional.

I will try to grab some photos later. Now off to getting ready for the new (rebuilt) motor:thumbsup:

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I will attach the new hose to an end of the old with some electrical tape, then using the old, pull the new through. just go in about 6" on each side w/the tape. this works for the really tight spaces, just don't pull too hard.

Your lengths and sizes sound correct. I've had to repair a few jobs done w/that tinted colored see-through stuff. where it leaks/cracks/etc. the black hoses is where it's at.

 

[mikidymac]

There is no reason to replace the vent lines unless it makes you feel better.

BTW, nice work getting them changed. I always replace the fuel selector and o-ring in the big clear filter.

 

[boatrboy]

There is no reason to replace the vent lines unless it makes you feel better.

BTW, nice work getting them changed. I always replace the fuel selector and o-ring in the big clear filter.

Thanks - I bought this ski from a friend who paid for maintenance and was told they replaced the switch and lines. After finding everything clogged, and seeing differenut colored lines (clearly they did not change all the lines) which imo caused the lean condition that fried the motor, I decided to change all the lines. While I agree the vent lines should not see gas and deteriorate, they do get fumes, and I figured everything will be black and new so I changed them. I don't want to do this again.

I did remove the switch and clean it throughly as well as blow it out with air. It looked new but I cleaned it well. The o-ring looks fine but my next purchase of parts I will order another just in case.

This forum has been very helpful for a guy like me with years of mechanical knowledge but no experience with pwc's. Thanks to you guys I'm hoping to have a nice RX this summer!

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you check that fuel selector. All the older ones I have seen leak air after you clean them. The rubber seal inside rots with age.

 

[Mickirig1]

Buy a pop off checker valve. After you replace fuel lines you can test the fuel system for leaks. The fuel system needs some positive pressure to have the fuel and oil system to flow right and to bleed off over pressures. Repair manual has the correct procedure for testing. No leak down your good!

 

[bl5650]

I am in the same Boat here . Trying to replace fuel lines. It appears there are two lines from fuel unit in the fuel tank that go under the engine on the port side. From there I cannot follow them. How in the )(^)(* do you change those without taking parts loose from the engine. Most of the others are just take your time and use the right replacement parts. Thanks for any help.

 

[Mickirig1]

One is a supply line the other is a return line. You have to take the air box off that is on top of the Carb. The top of the carb will have in and out arrows on it. Take one off the carb and pull on it a little. It will then tell you which line. Wire or tape the new line to the end of the new. Carefully pull the new line to the carb. Do one at a time. Complete to, on the nipple and clamping. Use all stainless steel hose clamps. If you can turn the line on the nipple it is too loose. Should consider replacing the pulse line to carb too. It leads from crank case to the carb. The vent lines up front don't really need changed. But I did them anyway. The vents need replaced too, if the ski has any age on it. Might consider checking the oil pump function while air box is off. To make sure it has spring tension and is adjusted right. Manual can be had on the Inter Net. Do not hesitate to ask questions. We are here for you Man!

 

[bl5650]

One is a supply line the other is a return line. You have to take the air box off that is on top of the Carb. The top of the carb will have in and out arrows on it. Take one off the carb and pull on it a little. It will then tell you which line. Wire or tape the new line to the end of the new. Carefully pull the new line to the carb. Do one at a time. Complete to, on the nipple and clamping. Use all stainless steel hose clamps. If you can turn the line on the nipple it is too loose. Should consider replacing the pulse line to carb too. It leads from crank case to the carb. The vent lines up front don't really need changed. But I did them anyway. The vents need replaced too, if the ski has any age on it. Might consider checking the oil pump function while air box is off. To make sure it has spring tension and is adjusted right. Manual can be had on the Inter Net. Do not hesitate to ask questions. We are here for you Man!

What does the air box look like?

 

[Mickirig1]

Th big oval plastic thing on top of carb or carbs.