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Rebuilt jet pump but now will not start

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Bjsaleen

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I had to Chang my wear ring in my jet pump, so I disassembled the pump put the new wear ring in. Along with that bought an anti rattle kit for the gear oil. Keep in mind before I took the jet pump off it started up every time. Now once everything is put back in place with the new anti rattle cone. It started up and ran for about ten seconds, I hit the stop button to go check the new wear ring and pump. And forgot to turn the gas on the first time. Went to go start the sea doo again and nothing. It turn over but will not start now. Impeller spins fine gas is on choke is pulled but will not fire. I changed to brand new plugs gapped at .023. Is it possible the anti rattle cone is putting a bind on the impeller shaft and not allowing it to turn or fire off properly?? Any help would be awesome!
 
Is the fuel tank maybe empty? Take a clean windex bottle and pour in some pre-mix fuel+oil at about 40:1, squirt a decent bit into both carbs and see if she fires off. Home made starting fluid with oil, great for firing off a dry set of carbs, be careful gasoline's a fire hazard.

Or maybe you have no spark, that's less likely though.
 
Tanks full, would my carbs be dry? When I first started it I forgot to turn the fuel on. But it never ran dry as I let it run for 5-10 second then shut it down to check the new ring. I then went and tried firing it up again still forgetting the fuel was not on. I went back to the pump thinking it was bound up and after taking the pump off it hit me. I forgot to turn the gas on. So I re assembled the pump went and turned the gas to on. And pulled the choke and all she did was turn over and not start. Like I said I changed the plugs to brand new gapped at .023 could my impeller shaft be to tight once it seated in between the drive shaft and the pusher of the anti rattle cone?
 
Check the pump, make sure you haven't pinched either the thrust washer or the thrust bearing, it's easy to do, I know.

Lou
 
Not familiar with this model ski, but is there any chance the battery was removed & a ground wire left off? I know some skis have a second ground wire to the e box that has the coils in it. thinking maybe it was touching (-) just enough to start once? Kind of a longshot I know, but worth asking anyway.
 
If it's turning over fine I don't think there is an issue with your pump. Put alittle premix down the carbs and see if it fires.



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Ok, I completely took the pump back off drained the gear oil and removed the impeller. Checked all bearings and made sure they were where there supposed to be and made sure not to pinch any bearings or washers. Placed all back on the sea doo. Trimmed my spark plug wires and tested to make sure I'm getting spark and plugs are gapped at .023. I did not try the spray bottle with the mixture yet. So do you guys think I ran it dry and by spraying into the carbs will help prime the fuel lines?
 
Put a little 2 cycle oil down spark plug holes and keep cranking, it's most likely not a jet drive/pump issue.

Could be flooded for all we know at this point.

Rob
 
Yeah, I'm planning on trying the squirt bottle with the mixture of 40:1 into the carbs next week when I warms back up. Currently 20 degrees in Ohio.... But almost 70 this coming week. I was even reading about placing a plastic bag over the flame arrestor and hitting the start stop button. It is supposed to prime your fuel of any air in about 5-10 seconds. I think when I replaced my fuel lines and it started right up and ran for 10 seconds was not near enough time to get all the air out of the new fuel lines.
 
Try pulling the plugs out then crank it. Should prime your fuel lines.

This ^^^^ is a good way to get fuel moving too in the case of a stubborn fuel pump, crankcase pulses actuate your fuel pump diaphragm thus as the engine cranks the fuel is pumped. It's much easier(on starter and battery, etc.) to crank an engine that has no compression and removing the spark plugs accomplishes the goal of compression release).

Perhaps if it's difficult for you to get the fuel into the carburetor intakes by squirting some in manually, this idea will accomplish the goal of getting the fuel up/in there.

Although we still don't know if there's spark, which of course is necessary. Spark + fuel = fire so laying the plugs connected to the plug wires on top of the cylinder while cranking can result in a nasty surprise if there's enough fuel in those cylinders to spit everywhere as the motor cranks or fuel lying around in the bilge can ignite (fuel vapors are heavier than air, they settle to the bottom of the bilge waiting for a spark or ventilation to purge them away).

Grounding the plug wires to the grounding posts, or connecting them to an explosion-proof spark checker while cranking is the safer route.

But obviously you had ignition previously, the engine was running while the fuel valve was shut off. Either there just isn't enough fuel yet to support ignition or the ignition system is malfunctioning for some reason. Occasionally if there's some oily goop in the crankcase that can get slung up onto a fresh set of spark plugs and foul them, so keep that possibility in mind. A cleaning with carburetor cleaner while the plugs are out will often be enough to wash them out and restore function.

I feel like you're getting close, these motors can be a little stubborn sometimes. Always use fresh fuel, often it it's more than a few months old it's getting close to being stale.
 
Sportster, are you saying to spray carb cleaner down the spark plug holes to try and clean the cylinders? If so about how much would you spray?
 
I'm suggesting you can or may as well spray your spark plugs out (around the ceramic insulator electrodes) and clean them with carb cleaner if you have some carb cleaner available.

Cranking the engine over with spark plugs removed will dry out excess fuel and oil (or even water if it was sunk) from the cylinders, I never put anything in the cylinders besides pre-mix or straight 2-stroke oil depending on if I'm trying to start a stubborn engine or lubricating it in preparation for storage.

Generally though, if I suspect an engine isn't receiving fuel I give it a few shots of pre-mix from the squirt bottle I keep on my work bench. It's a great way to find out which carb is dry when one cylinder isn't firing, and get those engines going that haven't been started in ages (as opposed to using a can of ether starting fluid which offers no lube and can damage an engine).

Once you're done with the squirt bottle, you can burn the remainder in your weed eater (yes this requires some yard work!) :). A squirt bottle of pre-mix is handy for getting the weed eater running if/when your arm gets tired of pulling the cord, it goes stale after a few months though.
 
Thanks sportster, I know I'm getting spark as I already pulled the plugs and ground them out on the cylinder cover. So I think I just need to try the squirt bottle with mixture. I will let you know how it goes, and if I have anymore questions
 
Ok here's an update and still need help. I used the squirt bottle and it started right up, but then died. I kept seeing air in the fuel filter and bypassed the fuel water separator to see if that would rid the air from the filter and it did. But then died about 30 seconds and now it will not start without spraying fuel into the carbs and once it starts it want to die right away. I can keep it going a little with the throttle but eventually dies. I took the return line off and blew in the line and all I heard was air coming from somewhere I never had any resistance? Any help please!!!


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Double check your fuel lines and that you have each line connected as it should (Vent, on, reserve, etc.) Being that you just replaced them, possible you crossed one or more of them and have the fuel circuit messed up.
 
Also, when I don't spray fuel into the carbs to see if it will start normal, after hitting the start stop button I hear something spinning and not sure if it's my starter still spinning or something let loose internally? The starter starts every time I hit the start stop button with no hesitation. Like I said in my previous post, I have to spray fuel into the carbs before it even thinks about starting and when I do spray fuel into the carbs it starts right up and runs for 2-3 seconds and dies. I can apply slight throttle and keep it running for about 5 seconds but dies. I took off the return line and blew into it and felt no resistance all I heard was gurgling and air leaking from somewhere but unsure where. I'm beginning to think I should have just left well enough alone! Please help I'm really hoping something didn't let loose in the engine and that's what I hear spinning.
 
Haven't read entire thread. Have you done any work to the fuel lines since it has been on the water? Placement could be off



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Are all the connections tight pulse line fuel lines ect. Did you put stabil in before you parked it for the off season. Cause it don't sound like you burned all of the fuel out.
 
when i replaced the fuel lines I replaced each one of them individually took take precautions not to mix them up and mad sure all hose clamps were tight. But thats not saying the guy before me didn't mess them up somehow. Which I wouldn't think they would be as they were the original grey. And 1of500 I did use stabil in the fuel last fall when I winterized it. Could it be a tank of bad gas? Does it sound right when I blow into the return line that i hear gurgling and air leaking from some where? Its just strange that i had it running put water to it and it was idling for approximatly 30-45 seconds and it died and now will not start without the help of a spray bottle down the carbs.
 
Your not getting fuel to carbs, checking lines takes a couple seconds. Sending unit in tank with the fuel line connections have markings at nipples. " ON " " RES " " RET " " VENT"

Trace each one to where they go.

On the return line that is leaving the PTO carb you are blowing air into a fuel tank with gas in it, probably will hear some things depending on how hard you are blowing. I would only be concerned if u had fuel leak into hull or somewhere.

Get some pics up of what we are looking at, fuel sending unit, carb connections etc.

Did you also replace or disconnect the inter-carb fuel lines recently? ( the fuel lines that go in-between each of the carbs ) if they are mixed up that can cause issue.

As mentioned above, is pulse fuel line collapsed? OEM line? how stiff it is? rotted? the pulse line uses engine crankcase psi to cause pulse in mag carb fuel pump diaphragm that sucks fuel from tank.


Rob
 
the line that goes to the inlet nipple on the mag carb has a clear fuel filter, it is full of fuel with no air in it. Could i still not be getting any fuel even tho the line going to the carb is full?
 
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