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rebuild now runaway

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fordarmyof1

fordarmyof1

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i just got done rebuilding the carbs and after reinstalling them it started up and was ideling about 2800-3000 then it slowly started running up and i shut it off at 4500. checked and rechecked things. everything was tight. as i was cleaning up i read in the directions that the two little clear discs should curve into the body. they had an ink line oin them and they said the ink line should point away from the body. this is on the mag carb. if the discs were not seated right would this lead to an air leak and lean runaway condition? also what are the starting points for the low and high speed jets? thanks guys!
 
The disks you are talking about are in the fuel pump. They won't cause the issue.

Before you get worried...

1) Did you sync the carbs?
2) did you install new base gaskets?
3) Are the needles set properly?
4) If you took the butterflies off the shaft... did you make sure they were centered, and can close?

If yes to all of the above... put the ski in the water, and start it. The extra load will keep it from running away. Then... you can properly set the idle.
 
got a whole new rebuild kit with new needles. never took the butterflies off the shaft. new base gaskets. i took the choke and fuel cables off the bodies as one piece so i never had to break them down and re adjust them.
 
There is enough play in the bolt holes that you always have to check the sync when the carbs are removed.

But... like I said... don't try to adjust anything, until you have it in the water.

Last question... were the kits OEM Mikuni, or aftermarket??
 
i bought the kits from only seadoo.com. he said it was everything i needed to rebuild 2 carbs. and it did, i just didnt see the regulator block seals until it was too late.
 
Regulator Block?? These aren't Double pumper Holly's. (lol)

Sorry... couldn't resist. Anyway... the only real regulator gasket is the diagram. Since you are talking about gaskets, and a block... I'm going to assume that you are talking about the fuel pump side. If that's the case... no... it won't cause your issue.

Right now, I can tell that you are starting to over think this. Seadoo engines are known to run away when they are lean. When they are in the water... a lean runaway can't happen since the load keeps the RPM's in check. I would open the low needles an extra 1/8" of a turn, and go put it in the water. You can't adjust anything out of the water. Also... there may not be anything wrong. Once you get it in the water, and run it for a couple minutes, it may never try to runaway again.

If you are going to continue to play with it on the trailer... just pop the choke, and it should bring it back into line.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
fordarmyof1 said:
i bought the kits from only seadoo.com. he said it was everything i needed to rebuild 2 carbs. and it did, i just didnt see the regulator block seals until it was too late.
Click to expand...

He use to supply all OEM parts, but in the last year or 2, he has been getting cheap. For now, we won't worry about it.
 
Is the throttle cable pulling open the throttle plates? Is the idle screw holding them open?
I just did the same with a new engine. Throttle cable too tight and it was doing that. The manual lists the procedure. Once the throttle cable is set correctly, you adjust the oil cable line. I'm on my iPad and tipsy from painkillers so hopefully someone else can describe.
 
sabr glad to see you are back at home already.
I didn't know that penile transplant was out patient surgery......:)
 
Lucky basterds!!! I'm down to my last few percocets from my back surgery 3 years ago!

I have a runny nose its time to pop one!:chillpill:
 
i have a self refilling script to the painkiller subscription of the month club! only way i can bend over these skis everyday!
 
Transplant huh? Mine was so big the wife was complaining....


I got some form of Vicodin, but throw it up. Can't use it. Got 50 odd pills. Waste of $. Next time I say I'm allergic.
 
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