RESTO Project Phoenix: 96 xp resto, 1020-R build and swap
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purple_people_eater
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I'm actually following your method. I used to go the 3m route, but the time involved for the results it yielded. And I have my reasons for hand buffing the bottom guys. I don't want it too waxy and I want scratches on the the bottom that run perpendicular to the hull so it will help with straight line tracking. The only reason I hand buffed the top deck is because I was tired and too lazy to go get my buffer
suke
Well-Known Member
I'm actually following your method. I used to go the 3m route, but the time involved for the results it yielded. And I have my reasons for hand buffing the bottom guys. I don't want it too waxy and I want scratches on the the bottom that run perpendicular to the hull so it will help with straight line tracking. The only reason I hand buffed the top deck is because I was tired and too lazy to go get my buffer
ahhhhh! Good to hear. Figured this wasn't your first rodeo.
purple_people_eater
New Member
So my Hondabond came in today, so I got the cases permanently sales together.
Other than that not much done today, I let someone borrow my ring compresser so I had to call them and tell them to bring it back. I need to get the motor dry mocked so I can measure my squish and call Dan to get my base gasket on the way.
Other than that not much done today, I let someone borrow my ring compresser so I had to call them and tell them to bring it back. I need to get the motor dry mocked so I can measure my squish and call Dan to get my base gasket on the way.
purple_people_eater
New Member
OK I know it's been about a week since I updated this, been so busy it's not even fun.
I got the top deck buffed with the first round of heavy cut cleaner. I think this thing is gonna come back absolutely beautiful.
I also got the motor dry mocked
And measured the squish clearance. It was 0.055. [emoji33] can you say detonation city? Not to mention throwing off my port timings.
That's even with a massive base gasket. So I'm gonna either have to find an r motor head or have a stock head machined.
I got the top deck buffed with the first round of heavy cut cleaner. I think this thing is gonna come back absolutely beautiful.
I also got the motor dry mocked
And measured the squish clearance. It was 0.055. [emoji33] can you say detonation city? Not to mention throwing off my port timings.
That's even with a massive base gasket. So I'm gonna either have to find an r motor head or have a stock head machined.
Krispy
Well-Known Member
Take a look at a thread that was around a week or so ago, basically it was noticed that SBT cut their 951 heads increasing combustion chamber volume and reshaping the squish band, to either clean up damaged heads, or to help the engines last longer at the cost of performance. I'll see if I can dig it up and post back.
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Krispy
Well-Known Member
Here ya go!
Milled Heads - 951 http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=73639
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Milled Heads - 951 http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=73639
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Try this guy, his English is pretty bad though. Not sure if he does the 951's or not. Perhaps you could sandwich his copper between two paper gaskets.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-COPP...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257f0821e9&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-COPP...Parts_Accessories&hash=item257f0821e9&vxp=mtr
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purple_people_eater
New Member
The base gasket I've already got in there is a copper 0.067. It's got to be addressed in the head so I can put a smaller base gasket in so my port timings won't be off for bottom end power.
I called Dan today and talked him out of his last r motor head, still in the box from the rotex racing department.
And in other news, medium cut cleaner is done for the right side of the hull.
Bnelson
New Member
Search for JetSkiGoodies thread on hull restoration/buffing... I believe he used all of JSG's recommendations on this ski... It's an awesome thread with lots of good info... If I could find it for ya I would just post the link but I'm too lazy lol
purple_people_eater
New Member
Yep I'm using his method. I used to do the 3m rubbing compound way but that was a lot of work for not as near as good of results. The only thing I do differently is I go ahead and wet sand the border of there the decals used to be with 320 then 600 then start on with the heavy cut.
I can't wait for a pic of that R motor. That's the kinda rare and cool that tickles my fancy. That thing is gonna be insane. I have a couple old 717 based motors like this but yours must have been one of the last two strokes they made for racing.
purple_people_eater
New Member
From my understanding it was. They where going to mass produce them for the general public but the project got scrapped in favor of the 4tec.
In other news I finished the medium and fine cut on the hull yesterday, all now is the swirl remover and the wax.
You can see my new handle bars in those pics too. I'm gonna be flying the adrenalin racing cover on them since without help from Dan this thing wouldn't be coming together.
Also cleaned up the Magnum and installed the super steep impeller.
Before:
Impeller
After
Just gotta the fiberglass done and I can start throwing this thing together.
purple_people_eater
New Member
I cleaned it really good and painted it with this:
Anything you see with an aluminum look to it on this build has been painted with that. I was really skeptical at first when I bought it, but I really like the look of it.
Also here's another goodie that's gonna be going on this beast:
Anything you see with an aluminum look to it on this build has been painted with that. I was really skeptical at first when I bought it, but I really like the look of it.
Also here's another goodie that's gonna be going on this beast:
suke
Well-Known Member
Dude when you're ready bring your ski by my house and we'll polish it up. You buy the polish and I'll do the buffing. Just text me and I'll tell ya what polish to buy. Really shouldn't take us more than a few hours. Especially with my rotary buffer it'll eat through that faded gel coat.
purple_people_eater
New Member
I've actually hit a few snags on the motor build. The R cylinders are supposed to be . 125" taller than the stock cylinders, thus the need for stroking the crank. However when my set where decked the mechinest took way too much material off. Now they are only .004" taller than stock. I'll post more this weekend on how I'm solving the issues.
purple_people_eater
New Member
He's a very good guy, and I'm proud to call him a friend.
purple_people_eater
New Member
There will be no more progress on this build until probably February or March due to me moving into a new shop, moving into a new house and various other thing I have going on this off season.
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