RESTO Project Phoenix: 96 xp resto, 1020-R build and swap

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
:drool5::thumbsup: this is great keep it up!!

what seat cover is that?

this makes me think of how far 2 strokes could have came if they didn't start cracking down on them, what a shame.

it's custom. i told him what i wanted, and he made it lol. the black is non-skid marine vinyl and the yellow is carbon fiber toned marine vinyl.
 
wow... this will be awesome. Where did you find the cylinders?

sorry i forgot to answer this. i got most of the performance stuff from the personal collection of my buddy Dan Divoky, owner of adrenalin racing in chardon oh. back in may when i first stared looking and buying up parts for this thing i found a part on ebay, i made an offer on it and i got except. when it arrived i thought i had just been taken by another yahoo parting race skis in his back yard. i contacted the seller and it was Dan, turns out i was at fault in not understanding what i had. anyway, he gave me his number and in the time since early may he has spend countless hours on the phone with me, teaching me. he's one of the few great racers left over from the 90's that you can actually talk to and is not arrogant like 85% of everyone else in the industry. it was funny, right before i talked to dan for the first time i had called watercraft magic (bill o'neil's shop) and talked to chris. the amount of arrogance and pompousness that they have over there is truly insane. in there minds the only way to build a 951 is to have them slap a miller big bore 1050 kit on it for 7k. i never wanted a bb kit, they are way to prone detonation and don't live that long because of it (unless you run race fuel), but they would not have take that for an answer.

anyway, having talked withed dan, i knew his advice was what i'd be following, you listen to a guy who won a world championship. one of the first things he told me that impressed me the most, and I firmly believe this with anything, stick to oem parts when ever possible( except for a few things,like the carbs) , especially the crank. and at the end of our first conversion, that lasted about 2 hours, he said "yeah, i'll help you build this thing, let me look around the shop and see what i've got." and so 3 months later i met him at the races last weekend at lake hartwell and picked everything up.
 
Whats your estimate on the speed this thing will run when completed and what rpm's will you see?
Dan runs his set of R cylinders on a 5mm stroker, single ring Pistons, coffman pipe, 46mm se carbs, and a skat trak 148 Magnum pump in a xpl. A few weekends ago he beat his buddy on his brand new rxp-x 260. He limits his rpms to 7600.

I'm really not sure how fast I'll be going but I'm building to his model.
 
So today when I went to get more Hondabond my bike shop where I've always gotten it was out so I ordered some online. So I went and set a time for next weekend with my fiberglass guy to fiberglass the new motor mount and exhaust outlet in. I also grabbed a few cans of paint and laid down the base case of paint on the cases and cylinders and I finished and cleared the exhaust manifold and head. Also tested a paint for the temporary pipe.

295.jpg


296.jpg


297.jpg


298.jpg


299.jpg


300.jpg


301.jpg


302.jpg
 
A 951 in a X4(or a HX) hull can give it a little lean to the right. This can be overcome but I just wanted to mention that while your still mocking things up. It won't be so bad with the white pipe your starting with but the Coffman's will be lighter and not provide as much weight on the left. The battery will likely be relocated to the left since the exhaust will now be in the rear right so I wouldn't opt for a lightweight one.

I was wondering what kind of ignition you plan to go with. I'm gonna build up a 951 also(although not so over the top) and I've been piling up AM parts. I bought a world champion XPL hull for it even though I've never even ridden the parabolic yet. Anyway I do know the MSD Enhanser will run the 951 if you use a 98XPL cup. I also have a Micro Touch 951 ignition and the MSD Total Loss but have not read up on how to use those yet. I assume you will need something like that that's adjustable.

Your power plant has the potential to push the X4 to 70 or even a little over. I've read where the stock tunnel can be a restriction at those speeds and possibly not supply enough water to that big Mag pump. The handling is key also. I've been fine in the early 60's but you will need to make sure your hull, sponsons and trim tabs are true at the speeds your gonna be able to reach.
 
yeah, didn't someone fracture a vertebrae testing sponsons on a 951 x4 when it tossed them off?
 
A 951 in a X4(or a HX) hull can give it a little lean to the right. This can be overcome but I just wanted to mention that while your still mocking things up. It won't be so bad with the white pipe your starting with but the Coffman's will be lighter and not provide as much weight on the left. The battery will likely be relocated to the left since the exhaust will now be in the rear right so I wouldn't opt for a lightweight one.

I was wondering what kind of ignition you plan to go with. I'm gonna build up a 951 also(although not so over the top) and I've been piling up AM parts. I bought a world champion XPL hull for it even though I've never even ridden the parabolic yet. Anyway I do know the MSD Enhanser will run the 951 if you use a 98XPL cup. I also have a Micro Touch 951 ignition and the MSD Total Loss but have not read up on how to use those yet. I assume you will need something like that that's adjustable.

Your power plant has the potential to push the X4 to 70 or even a little over. I've read where the stock tunnel can be a restriction at those speeds and possibly not supply enough water to that big Mag pump. The handling is key also. I've been fine in the early 60's but you will need to make sure your hull, sponsons and trim tabs are true at the speeds your gonna be able to reach.

battery will be relocated to the left side of the hull i've in thought about running a 30cbl for extra reserve voltage and weight balance. i'm not doing the cross over pipe method. i've got a modded xpl water box i'm going to be using. i'm going to be running a 98 gxsl mpem with mirco touch limiter and water injection. i know about the pump tunnel and hoping that since i'm building off a 787 based hull and using a scoop grate that i can supply enough water to the mag, if not i'll widen it out this winter since its looking like if i bust tail i might get some water time on this thing this season. also still gonna be running my worx sponsons, but i've got 2 other sets to try if the porpoising gets is bad with the worx, i can also shim my tabs if needed. while i need it to be stable, i also don't wanna kill the hull's playfulness, other wise i'd just stick this thing in the xpl hull i've got and save myself a lot of headache.

you can actually run a 951 competently of the msd systems with no mpem and any 98 single mag cup, its what dan did in the world champion xpl i bought from him.

also that just a normal 98 black pipe i painted sliver. a lot of seadoo pipes had wpp stamped on them. the only difference between a 97.5 pipe and all other carbed black pipe is a 3" diameter in the pipe throat which only nets ~20 more rpm over stock black pipes. its the manifolds off the 97.5 that make the other ~200 rpm difference. dan did extensive research on this a few years back trying to find ways to make the stock pipe make more power since am pipes where getting so hard to find. he tried boring stock pipes to match the diameter and measurements of the white pipe and manifold and so many other things. nothing made enough of a difference to justify the price. now if you have a 97.5 gsx sitting around, and you're sure it's got the stock pipe and manifold, like you see they're pretty easy to fake, then use them. however, they're not worth chasing and spending the money on them that people want now days when there are so many other places that money can go that get much better gains.
 
yeah, didn't someone fracture a vertebrae testing sponsons on a 951 x4 when it tossed them off?

never heard of that. i did hear about when bill o'neil and his group where building an x4, supposedly a 920 motor, that the test got thrown off and seriously hurt but from what i understand they where running bill's custom grate at the time which was junk and that was the real reason for the crash.

but i think i said this in a other thread, this is going to be one scary machine. and the possibility of getting badly hurt is very real. but thats also the case on any power sport machine. i've just got to keep my head on straight and have respect for the monster i'm sitting on.
 
The crash was a member here that got thrown. I traded him a Seadoo boat for it, changed out the tabs, and sold it to another fella who ran it all last summer.

Watercraft Magic prices may be high but it's essentially only a one man operation doing very specialized work. I understand that they have to stick with proven set ups they know and make a living over there in Cali.

Bill Oneil is actually the best Seadoo guy ever. I say this for a number of reasons. One is that he has always shared info. Not so much to competitive race teams back when he was in the heat of it, but he did help others with pipe/carb set ups and write magazine articles for how to and common fixes going back to the mid 90's when these were just coming out.
Another is that he is the original. When the first 95 XP800's came out Seadoo gave his shop half a dozen of them to race. They always kept there ear on what he was saying to so his input shows up all over skis after that(Mikuni jetting, timing curves, pipe jetting, etc). Sorry to get side tracked I know a lot of other tuners have had sucess also but I had to say something for Bill. By the time motors like yours came out Bill stuck pretty close to Mel Miller I think. Your monster is coming from a BRP development history and should run with the Miller and Les Cooke engines out there.

I have a set of those cool Buckshot billet carbs also(mine are 47's) but I have not tried them. From what I've read the needle and seats need to be updated to Mikuni style. I guess the originals were screw in? Just something else to check.

Oh on the black pipe it has much more of a flat spot then the white pipe and flows better as well as having a larger internal diameter. The white pipe manifold has 600 cast into it instead of 601 or 602 on the part #. I thought yours did but I couldn't make it out in the pic. WPP is Westcoast Performance Products and they had the contract for the OEM two stroke Seadoo pipes all the way through.

Sorry for going on and on. I'm putting off listing skis on Cl......time for me to get to work. PPE- more pics please when you get a chance.
 
Chris at watercraft magic hooked me up with my carb specs and tuning. I have to say it's pretty comforting for someone like me who isn't a tuner to call up, tell him what I'm doing and for him to sell me a kit with tuning specs that should be pretty close to spot on.....and they were! The kit I bought from him wasn't any more expensive than anywhere else I could have got it from.
 
So yesterday I started on the hull. Striped it, pressure washed it, had a buddy help me move it on to a set of tables outside my shop. It's amazing how light these hulls are when they're empty lol. I also wet sanded the bottom of the hull.

330.jpg


331.jpg


332.jpg


333.jpg


334.jpg


335.jpg


336.jpg


337.jpg


338.jpg


Afters

339.jpg


340.jpg


341.jpg
 
Damn your moving fast, at this rate she should be in the water in the month of August.
That's what I'm trying for. I work on customer stuff from 9-5, but as soon a 5 hits I stop and start back in on the xp stuff. The last week or so I've been in the shop till about 10 or 11. My girlfriend is actually getting quite jealous lol.
 
So a lot of work yesterday and not a lot to show for it.

First I put some heavy cut cleaner on the bottom of the hull and hand buffed it in a forward to back motion so all the scratches would be facing the same direction.

364.jpg


365.jpg


366.jpg


Then I turned the hull over and put some super clean on the inside of the hull. While it was soaking I thought I'd remove the decals quick. I thought wrong. The decals did not want to come off. It took me 4 hours to get them off where it normally takes 1.5 tops.

367.jpg


In between letting my heat gun cool and resting my fingers, I continued to try to get the inside of the hull clean. 2 rounds of super clean and 2 rounds of purple power later it's still filthy. I may end up painting it.

To finish out the night I did a little compound on the front left of the hull by hand, just to see what work I've got ahead of me in the buffing department.

368.jpg
 
I have found the 96 xp gelcoat tends to clean up the best, well at least for me. Hand doing it though would be horrible. I spend hours using drills and a d.a. As for painting the inside my fiance's brother used a bilge paint that is resistant to oil and gas and it look really good. Some of those decals leave behind the adhiesive, so there will be grey spots everywhere, the best thing we have found to get it off is aircraft adhiesive remover. The stuff is amazing.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top