-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Post your Custom Doo
- Thread starter 007Doo
- Start date
- Status
You can repair the VTS. Lots of threads here to look over.
Mostly I think its caused by a cracked housing...but not sure since I don't have that system on mine.
Do a search. Also a few people here sell used parts. minnetonks4me, 99spxxx, ski-d00 (zeros not the letter "O"
Mostly I think its caused by a cracked housing...but not sure since I don't have that system on mine.
Do a search. Also a few people here sell used parts. minnetonks4me, 99spxxx, ski-d00 (zeros not the letter "O"
purple_people_eater
New Member
vts problems are usually either the moter is locked up or the vts cotrol box is fried. imo if the box is bad its better to look into the other fixes instead of replaceing the stock box. with where they are placed in the hull, they are ticking time bombs.
What do you mean look into the other fixes??
It seems 90% of the doos i looked at have vts's that do not work, therefor I figured it wasn't that big of a deal, is this somthing I should be more concerned with??
Thanks
purple_people_eater
New Member
there are several ways out there that move the vts control unit out of the bottom of the hull, which is a very good idea on the x4 hull due to the fact when you're out playing the bottom of the hull will get water in it. some of the fixes are:
1. make your own relay box to make the motor go up or down
2. The trim fix (google it)
3. get an aftermarket manual system.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
paint the engine, make it look sexy !
skewba98z28
Active Member
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
ya that hull's inside rim is all beat up, well, it was much worst right when the pic was taken, after the engine was installed, its been touched up now, a lot of that came from the old owner pulling out the spec pipe and getting it in, then we contributed to it putting the pipe back in, its a dam tight squeeze.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I am parting out a '96 XP, let me know if you need anything.
If someone can tell me how to get the huge plastic nut off the back of the ski, I will remove the VTS, and ship out the whole thing for $25.00 + shipping.
If someone can tell me how to get the huge plastic nut off the back of the ski, I will remove the VTS, and ship out the whole thing for $25.00 + shipping.
ocod
Well-Known Member
pm minnetonka he mentioned once how he gets them off.
ski-d00
Well-Known Member
Hey Sabr, how about I send you the tool to remove the nut and you ship the tool back to me with the VTS? I'm interested in the VTS, it works right, and motor included?
I'm rebuilding a 96xp right now, only because it is in mint condition and I can't seem to allow myself to part it out. Probably not a good business decision but somebody will be really happy when they get an almost new looking 96xp with a brand new rebuilt motor with a 1 year warranty for $1500.
Although, if you are parting it out, after you remove the pump, it is simple to remove the nut. I can send paypal payment today, just give me your paypal payment address.
Sorry to overtake this thread but I'm sure I can find some pics of some crazy cool stuff I've done in the last 20 years to post.
I'm rebuilding a 96xp right now, only because it is in mint condition and I can't seem to allow myself to part it out. Probably not a good business decision but somebody will be really happy when they get an almost new looking 96xp with a brand new rebuilt motor with a 1 year warranty for $1500.
Although, if you are parting it out, after you remove the pump, it is simple to remove the nut. I can send paypal payment today, just give me your paypal payment address.
Sorry to overtake this thread but I'm sure I can find some pics of some crazy cool stuff I've done in the last 20 years to post.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
The ski came to me in non - working condition. Is there anyway for me to test? The motor is included.
I assume I could hook it up to a 14v cordless drill battery I have, just need to know what leads.
the plastic housing, motor, everything. the rubber boot part however split because it had metal clamps on it, everything else looks good.
I can test it tonight, or at least try. I'll PM you my info.
$1500 is a steal for a mint ski w/a warranty. these things are hella fun...
I assume I could hook it up to a 14v cordless drill battery I have, just need to know what leads.
the plastic housing, motor, everything. the rubber boot part however split because it had metal clamps on it, everything else looks good.
I can test it tonight, or at least try. I'll PM you my info.
$1500 is a steal for a mint ski w/a warranty. these things are hella fun...
You have to put + power to the red wire and the purp single wire. - power to black. Plug in the vts buttons and test.
I have rigged up a couple of wire harnesses to test them...PM me if you want some made up.
I also have VTS housings in all 3 different types...but they are flying off the shelf. If you need one dont wait.
I have rigged up a couple of wire harnesses to test them...PM me if you want some made up.
I also have VTS housings in all 3 different types...but they are flying off the shelf. If you need one dont wait.
murjiim
New Member
when you took the stickers off..could u see where they came off from? and how did you get it to blend with the rest of the area
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
it probably would have before he buffed and polished the gelcoat, but most just need a bit of TLC to look like new.
skewba98z28
Active Member
Yes sir you could see where they were plain as day. The gel coat on that ski was so oxidized it was whitish yellow. With that said anything can be buffed out. Just grab some 3m liquid rubbing compound and a buffer with a wool pad. Gel coat is much more forgiving that automotive paint so don't let that scare you. Its really hard to screw up. Just take time, elbow grease, and some swearing while pulling the stickers. :lol:
murjiim
New Member
hmm..well mine is white and there were the old decals that the PO took off..hated how you can clearly still see.
i did use my 3m rubbing compound with wool on the buffer...didnt do anything..
i cant even get it shiny. i dont know i think i am doing it wrong or the pad is no good.
went out today..winds were around 50-60km/hr...darn it was scary so i put it right back on the trailer. i got tossed so high that i thought i would flip backwards so it scared me and i took it back home. i only went cuz the weather was so warm at 23C!
that cover is for a skidoo...fits just fine for $19.99
i did use my 3m rubbing compound with wool on the buffer...didnt do anything..
i cant even get it shiny. i dont know i think i am doing it wrong or the pad is no good.
went out today..winds were around 50-60km/hr...darn it was scary so i put it right back on the trailer. i got tossed so high that i thought i would flip backwards so it scared me and i took it back home. i only went cuz the weather was so warm at 23C!
that cover is for a skidoo...fits just fine for $19.99
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
skewba98z28
Active Member
Pm me a picture of the area in question on your ski. I use a 7 inch rotary buffer set around 1500 rpm. It makes quick work of oxidation
Getemkustom
Active Member
90 SP - Fresh paint - Viper blue and Platinum. Jetsport head & intake, PJS exhaust, R&D intake grate, Protec extended ride plate, stainless pellar.
russianphil18
New Member
paint the engine, make it look sexy !
what kind of air intake cover is that on top of the carbs? I have a '97 with that big air box and i would love to use the set up u have. does it work well? are there any negatives to removing the flame arrestor and all the other things in the air box?
skewba98z28
Active Member
I buffed my 96 SPX today with a wool pad and some Meguiars oxidation remover. It shined right up. Don't be afaird to turn some rpm on the buffer and work in small areas. The key is to take your time.
Attachments
- Status
