Please need help with my seadoo rxp 214 oil light then goes into limp mode whats my i

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I have twice and even the primary and secondary shaft oil filter and oil and spark plugs
On the trailer I can give it throttle but once off the trailer and in water within seconds oil limp mode activated I dont now what else to do.

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If it goes into limp mode or says OIL it has to have a code. You have to get the code while it is doing it, press set 5 times. Or, you can hook up to BUDS at your dealer and it will give the codes. What year RXP 215 is it?
 
Well, sounds like you need a new dealer or your ECU is shot but I doubt that very much if it runs. It won't be an active code but it should be an occurrence. I've never seen an OIL message without the ECU storing the code. For it to go into limp mode, it must have a code.

Does it say OIL on the LCD with a flashing red light? when it is saying OIL, press set 5 times and it will give a code or say END.
 
Thanks for your help and I'll check when it goes into oil limp mode. Thanks again.

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The new place I took it to programed a new key cause I lost mine when I went out last.
And he found 25 fault code on my ski does that sound right when I asked him how he said maybe the last time when motor was striped down the battery wasnt disconnected. .??

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So im picking it up tomorrow but wont be able to head out till Saturday so ill see if its fixed

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Dealers will make themselves sound important by saying they found 25 different fault codes. Every time your battery will get low, it will cause a fault code and tons of other non-important fault codes that are not active but will be listed as an occurrence. If somebody started unplugging wires with the battery connected, this will trigger codes for sure. The important thing to ask is how many are active and what are they. Typically this is only 1 or 2. It takes all of 5 minutes to check and clear codes.

Unless they said they actually fixed something, it's unlikely that just clearing codes will fix it. SeaDoos do a very good job of fixing themselves once the error is corrected.
 
I will ask and find out in the next couple of hours.but there was a loom that went into the rear oil sensor that was extended about 300 cm from factory loom with a poor shoildering and duck tape holding it together that was mouldy.so fingers crossed

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Hey mate just took it out same problem pressed the set button five times and nothing came up. The only thing that came up was END no codes .

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biggie_747 said:
Hey mate just took it out same problem pressed the set button five times and nothing came up. The only thing that came up was END no codes .

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Click to expand...

Has anyone pulled the PTO Cover or tightened any bolts on the bottom of the cover?
 
Ok,, lets take a moment here and talk this out...

On the trailer you can rev the engine and you get NO OIL LIGHT issue. Is that correct?
In the water when does the light come on? Idle or only after you accelerate?

Trying to isolate out the difference between in and or out of water. What changes are there kind of thing. Like water temp sensor would be more affected in water as compared to on the trailer... Just trying to get details so we can maybe isolate this out a bit..
 
Thanks thats correct no oil light when on trailer
but once in water under only acceleration oil light limp mode

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Took it back to the new dealer and there's no other choice but to strip the motor down and find out what the problem
Cause sensors been change 3 times oil filter spark plugs
TOPS and even the primary and secondary pump so will see what happens

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A few ideas here:

Install an mechanical oil pressure gauge on the oil galley and measure the actual pressure, get a real number.

Anyway, sounds like your oil pressure switch is telling you the oil pressure is low, could be the switch is bad or associated wiring to the switch as well. Not sure if that's normally open or normally closed circuit off the top of my head but my guess is normally open circuit so if you disconnect the connector from the switch the problem may not show up anymore. If that's the case your oil pressure is probably too low.

Or jumper the harness connector if the circuit is normally closed(also possible).

This test will isolate the MPEM from being able to monitor the engine oil pressure, so it cannot generate the fault b/c it won't be able to see the fault.

But the engine will eventually be damaged if the oil pressure is too low, so measuring the actual pressure using a pressure gauge is the best course of action in any case.
 
The regulator was probably over tightened and not working correctly you need a new sleeve, Same thing happened to me after a rebuild.
 
biggie_747 said:
Hi there are you talking about the oil sensor switch plug? To disconnect it

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Click to expand...

Yes, it may be necessary to install a jumper wire in the connector. But this is just an electrical test. I still think the first thing to do is measure and confirm the actual engine oil pressure is enough to avoid engine damage, in addition to the helpful suggestions offered up by other posters.

This issue is telling you either the pressure is too low, or there's something wrong with the pressure switch and circuit. If the pressure actually is too low, engine damage might be occurring.
 
So, while the OIL message was on the LCD and the red light was flashing AND it was still running, you pressed SET 5 times. Not after you shut it off or a minute or two later. It literally has to be running and flashing while you press set 5 times, you can't shut it off and then check because the codes will be lost and it will just say END.

If this really is the case, your ECU is fried and it will never run right but I've never seen an ECU that won't list codes and still allow the engine to run.

This can't be a difficult problem to solve. The ECU will tell you exactly what and where the issue is for all electrical problems using BUDS. Does this dealer have BUDS? and do they know how to use it? It sounds like you need a new dealer.
 
Thats correct no code just END
But when I unplug something else a code will come up on the lcd

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