• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Out with the Carbon ring and in with the new style

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rampage

Premium Member
Premium Member
Thanks to Capt Scale, he has helped my allot with my ski. I hate the stupid carbon ring on the drive-shaft. I can just feel the ski cavitate a little even when everything was lined up and working properly. So Scale helped me out and we did the bearing style and got rid of the carbon ring. I cant believe the difference in how my ski feels just jumping out of the water. I would highly recommend anyone that has that carbon ring set up to get rid of it and go this way. Here is a pic of the new. Sorry I know I need a new camera!! :banghead:

18.jpg
 
Thats an OEM style seal pack. It's a "Bolt on" project for the most part.


One thing to be aware of....

The carbon ring sucks, and wears quickly... but it can be massaged to work, but it is almost impossible to have a total, catastrophic failure.

When a seal pack decides to die... the bearing normally seizes to the shaft, and it rips the fitting out of the hull. (causing damage) Now, you have a 2" hole in the back of your ski. At this point, your ski will slow down as if you shut the engine off... and will sink in about 15 seconds. (this is why they got rid of the regular seal for the most part in 1995)

I will try to find the vid of it happening to a racer.

All I can say is if anyone here changes over to the old style seal... keep it greased, and inspect it often.
 
It's the same as the one that's on your GSX in your avatar picture.

Chester

I just picked this 98(1997.5) GSX Limited up about a little over a month ago. I have not taken the drive shaft assembly out. I looked at it on the water at higher RPMs and didn't notice any leaks so figure I am ok for now. I have grease it up on both ends with XPS synthetic grease as well.

So, do I have a carbon ring in my drive shaft assembly or just the "Needle Bearing"? They are both listed on the parts finder for my machine, although the carbon ring reads as "May not be shown".

Also, I take it ths thread would be better name "Out with the Carbon ring and in with the old style" then?

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thats an OEM style seal pack. It's a "Bolt on" project for the most part.


One thing to be aware of....

The carbon ring sucks, and wears quickly... but it can be massaged to work, but it is almost impossible to have a total, catastrophic failure.

When a seal pack decides to die... the bearing normally seizes to the shaft, and it rips the fitting out of the hull. (causing damage) Now, you have a 2" hole in the back of your ski. At this point, your ski will slow down as if you shut the engine off... and will sink in about 15 seconds. (this is why they got rid of the regular seal for the most part in 1995)

I will try to find the vid of it happening to a racer.

All I can say is if anyone here changes over to the old style seal... keep it greased, and inspect it often.


Maybe over kill bit I give it a little shot of grease ever other ride just to be sure LOL
 
There is a grease fitting on the old style and none on the carbon one.

I guess that answers my question then. I have the greese fitting on both ends. I have already checked it twice, so I guess I am on the right track to keeping it in good condition. I add grease on the PTO side until I see the rubber boot right at the fitting move.
 
Maybe over kill bit I give it a little shot of grease ever other ride just to be sure LOL

It's not overkill at all... but you have the right mind set. You will look at it, and keep it greased. The reason SeaDoo stopped using it in '95 was because most people didn't do any "Servicing" of that seal, and when they fail... it almost always ends in a sunk ski. So... for liability reasons, they changed to the carbon seal.

OK... there is one part that I will admit was overkill, that's where I say it sinks. The truth is... they only partly sink. Normally, about 12" of the nose will be bobbing out of the water like a iceberg. :D BUT... your engine will be under water when it happens.


OK... truth be told... I like the old seals, and 9 times out of 10... it will cure a cavitation issue. I have 2 skis with a greased seal and bearing pack... but I won't swap the old style seal into my boat.


Last thing on this type of seal. Be carfull if you use an aftermarket seal assembly. Some times they don't use the right rear seal, and they don't always press the seals in with a sealant. The issue here is that when you pump the grease in... you can pop out the rear seal (the side facing the water, and you can't see it unless you take the seal carrier out) and now water will get into the bearing, and it will die quick.
 
Thanks for all the info. So far it has made a night and day difference with my ski. Again a million thanks to Capt Scale for everything. He really has tought me a ton about my ski and really has gone out of his way many times to help me.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I always recommend, to my customers, to grease that drive shaft bearing after each use and grease the PTO flywheel once or twice a season.

Chester
 
Well you guys are gonna laugh...but I went back to the carbon ring...we tried to use my drive shaft to go to the bearing style.....small pits in my drive-shaft killed the bearings, and locked it up. No damage to the hull...just messed up the boot, and the hose clamp bolt grabbed my neg battery terminal and ripped it apart and wound it up on the shaft under the boot....I should have taken pictures....Lesson learned :lols: Going to try it again with a new drive shaft... On a side note I did notice my ski having less and less power, now I know it was the bearing going bad, restricting the shaft from spinning....just glad it happened in the garage. :cheers:
 
Well... at least you didn't report back with a sunk ski. :cheers:


A little advice on the carbon seal. If you have the clip in the rear position, and you are still getting cavitation from the seal leaking... put some fat zip ties in the valleys of the boot. That will keep the seal from being sucked back under hard acceleration.
 
Well... at least you didn't report back with a sunk ski. :cheers:


A little advice on the carbon seal. If you have the clip in the rear position, and you are still getting cavitation from the seal leaking... put some fat zip ties in the valleys of the boot. That will keep the seal from being sucked back under hard acceleration.

Great advice!! thank you...I will try that!!!! :cheers:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top