No start

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DeanBrantley

DeanBrantley

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2005 Challenger 4 tec SC. Battery went dead when batt switch was left on and some switches were left on to. Lights, bilge etc. So the battery was cremated. Put new one in but now it won’t start. All the normal things, lights, bilge etc work. When I put lanyard on there are 2 beeps and after a few seconds it beeps 4 times. I have look in manual have found nothing. Help I’m stuck in Geiger Key FL, with a broke boat
 
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On some boats like the 210 there are two positive cables... If yours is similar are both hooked back up? Just a thought.
 
Same thing I thought just like my speedster but no only 1 cable. Its a single, not a twin.
 
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The kill switch terminal could be bad. Mine went bad. I took a jumper from the positive on the battery to the power wires coming off the switch and viola. You can also check the breaker it should be located next to the kill switch terminals.
 
are your gauges going through their normal sweep when plugging the key on? the ecm is seeing the key if you are getting the three beeps every couple of seconds. did you check all your fuses? do you have all of your grounds hooked up? I think there is a relay in the fuse box that can cause issues, I don't have a wiring schematic in front of me to verify but it would be easy enough to test to rule it out.
 
4 beeps. Neutral, yes. Gauges did go thru normal sweep, now tach doesn't. I have never owned a doo where the gauges worked right anyways. All fuses check. All grounds hooked. Acc fuse box under steering wheel and engine compartment box are identical, no relay that I can see. Just got back from the keys, almost lost trailer wheel in rush hour traffic in Sarasota, came to a stop, put the smoke out, wheel cocked at 30 degrees, had to replace hubs, axle, bearings, almost major FU. Just another doo adventure! I'm checking schematics to, guess I'll hook up tester.
 
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Is your throttle fully closed, if the throttle is slightly open for any reason it will not start but it will crank.
 
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No crank, throttle closed.... Deoolnelj you mentioned a "kill" switch. Do you mean the battery cutoff switch?
 
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I have looked thru the manual and am going to test the neutral safety switch next. Anyone know if you have to 1) Pull the shifter/throttle lever assembly, or 2) go in thru the panel where the acc fuse box is at. Manual tells how to test doesn't show location or how to access. Only reason I ask is its going to take awhile to drill and easy out the screws on the shift levers, don't want to do if i don't have to. By the way it does crank when I jump the solenoid
 
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Open the rear deck to make sure there are no fumes. Jump the solenoid. If it cranks you know the battery, cables, connections, and the starter are good. If it doesn’t crank, one of those items needs addressed. This will at the very least give you a direction to head.
 
I had similar problem it was the neutral switch...had to pull shift lever counsel, ...my n-switch was forward of the lever assembly, but was too far to reach from fuse door. I removed and bypassed it,.... never had another start problem since. Good luck
 
Bench tested solenoid..good. Drilled out shifter lever box screws,pulled and tested neutral switch with ohm meter..good. 2 beeps on DESS means good. All fuses check good. No crank.
 
I am not getting any power indication with test light to + cable with arrow. Even when I hit start button. The solenoid test worked.20180505_121116.jpg
 
seadoo180se said:
I am not getting any power indication with test light to + cable with arrow. Even when I hit start button. The solenoid test worked.View attachment 34955
Click to expand...

you need to test for 12v and ground at the plug of the relay, best to use a multimeter, test light won't show if you have sufficient voltage. your test light could light up at 9volts but the system won't operate at that voltage.
 
I did a multimeter test afterwards and I am getting 12volts at the positive side of starter relay. The red cable without arrow.
 
The 2 pin plug that goes into the relay is showing 9.95v when testing ground side(+ on battery, - on plug). Tested with key on and not trying to start
 
should see close to 12 volts on the yellow red wire and ground on the other wire when hitting the start button. that should close the connection between both the red wires on the relay
 
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