2008 Sea Doo Challenger No Power to Dash

[ryanw10]

2008 Sea Doo Challenger with a rotax 215 HP engine. I had the boat out a few times, but was experiencing a loss of RPM and could only get up to about 6000 RPMS. I replaced to spark plugs, measured the supercharger slip, did compression test, and tested the coils. After testing the coils I accidentally left the DESS key in and battery switch on. It was left this way for 3-4 days while I pulled the injectors and cleaned them. Put the injectors back in and thats when I realized I left the key in. I tried to start it, but got nothing. Assuming the battery had died, I charged it back up but still could not get any beeps, or the dash to turn on.

When I put the key in now, I get no beeps, and the dash does not turn on. I do hear the fuel pump kick on for a few seconds though when I plug the key in.

-Battery is fully charged (motor turns over if I jump the posts on the solenoid)
-All fuses I can find are good
-Blower, bilge, lights, and accessory switches all work
-No beeps after hitting the starter button 5 times with key out
-Dash does not light up when I push the starter button once with the key out.

Prior to leaving the key in for 3-4 days I would get the normal 2 beeps and then could start the engine.

 

[GT!]

I have a 2009 and went through this recently, except it was intermittent and would eventually work after playing with the key and other things for a few minutes. Here are the things you can check:
1. Try a spare key if you have one. If not just go to step 2 anyway.
2. Test the DESS post. You can get to the wires behind the dash. The DESS post does two things, it validates the key but also has a magnetic switch that turns the dash (and other things on). It has 3 wires and when you put the key in place there will be continuity between 2 of them (sorry, forget which ones but just experiment). If you see continuity when you connect a key this tells you it is not a problem with your key or the DESS post.
3. My problem turned out to be a relay in fuse box 2 (see pic). No, this is not the starter relay. I'm not sure if the 2008s have the same relay, but it is generic and available for like $15 on Amazon (just search seadoo relay). Note the cover is off fuse box 1 in my pic because I took the pic before finding the real problem.

Of course it could also be the usual suspect of just a loose connection somewhere ...

Hope this helps and good luck solving it!

 

[ryanw10]

I have tested the DESS post and key with a multimeter and those results came back good. I also tried a key from a different sea doo to see if anything changed but had the exact same results.

I have read a Iot about that relay going bad, but I cant find it anywhere, the only relay I have is the starter relay. I have 3 fuses by the battery switch, and from there power goes to the starter relay where there is a module above it that has fuses in the module, as well as a 30 amp and 15 amp fuse coming off the starter relay.

 

[GT!]

I have tested the DESS post and key with a multimeter and those results came back good. I also tried a key from a different sea doo to see if anything changed but had the exact same results.

I have read a Iot about that relay going bad, but I cant find it anywhere, the only relay I have is the starter relay. I have 3 fuses by the battery switch, and from there power goes to the starter relay where there is a module above it that has fuses in the module, as well as a 30 amp and 15 amp fuse coming off the starter relay.

Yea, it's possible it doesn't exist prior to 2009. I was orginally working from a 2007 shop manual and it does not show fuse box #2 like my 2009.

 

[Mister Magoo]

The second fuse box is on the VCM, which is under the dash behind the gauge cluster. The attached wire diagram is for my 2007 Speedster.

 

[ryanw10]

The second fuse box is on the VCM, which is under the dash behind the gauge cluster. The attached wire diagram is for my 2007 Speedster.

Yea I have found this one too, all fuses and connections good, and I do not see a relay here either

 

[ryanw10]

With a multimeter on the dash plug I do get voltage when I put the key on the post. Also with the key on, the red light on the on/off switch will illuminate when I push it. It does not light up with the key off

 

[Mister Magoo]

Got to remember an important fact when working on the electrical on these boats; the ECU switches the ground, +12 is supplied to all components, its the ground that turns on and off. If you left your key on the DESS post with the battery switched on, the boat should have been beeping like crazy. There is no way my boat will let me keep the key on/battery switched on without being annoying.

 

[GT!]

The second fuse box is on the VCM, which is under the dash behind the gauge cluster. The attached wire diagram is for my 2007 Speedster.

I was working from the 2007 shop manual on my 2009 and was getting frustrated when I couldn't find the f'in VCM behind the dash and my EFB didn't look like the one in the diagram. Felt stupid when I found out mine didn't have the VCM and instead had a 2nd fuse box in the engine bay.

 

[Mister Magoo]

I was working from the 2007 shop manual on my 2009 and was getting frustrated when I couldn't find the f'in VCM behind the dash and my EFB didn't look like the one in the diagram. Felt stupid when I found out mine didn't have the VCM and instead had a 2nd fuse box in the engine bay.

Looks like they changed to your style in 09. The 08 is the same as the earlier models.

 

[nesnfred]

Do you have the Perfect Pass system on your boat? I had a similar problem like you described with the low rpm’s and then eventual no start. Turned out my Perfect Pass module had died. It wastwo summers ago so I don’t recall the steps but I removed the dash enough to get behind there, figured out how the Perfect Pass system integrated and disconnected those wires. There is also a mechanical connection to your throttle that enables the perfect pass to control the throttle, I used some tie wraps to hold that in place.

 

[ryanw10]

Do you have the Perfect Pass system on your boat? I had a similar problem like you described with the low rpm’s and then eventual no start. Turned out my Perfect Pass module had died. It wastwo summers ago so I don’t recall the steps but I removed the dash enough to get behind there, figured out how the Perfect Pass system integrated and disconnected those wires. There is also a mechanical connection to your throttle that enables the perfect pass to control the throttle, I used some tie wraps to hold that in place.

I do not have the perfect pass system

 

[ryanw10]

Got to remember an important fact when working on the electrical on these boats; the ECU switches the ground, +12 is supplied to all components, its the ground that turns on and off. If you left your key on the DESS post with the battery switched on, the boat should have been beeping like crazy. There is no way my boat will let me keep the key on/battery switched on without being annoying.

I do not remember it beeping at all with the battery switch on and the key on the post. The last time I had it working and the engine turning over with the switch, I was testing the ignition coils. I had the fuel pump disconnected, and only 1 ignition coil plugged in. I was going to have my wife turn the motor over with the button while I watched for spark. However, when I tried this the engine would not turn over. All I did though was plug the other 2 ignition coils back in and I was able to have my wife use the start button to turn the motor over and I verified all 3 ignition coils were sparking. This is when I forgot to take the key off the post. I dont remember how long I was in the barn the night, but I know I never heard it beeping like crazy and I know I was back in there the next morning and didnt hear anything.

 

[Mister Magoo]

I do not have the perfect pass system

I think your wiring is the same as my 07 single engine Speedster. The manual I got the wiring diagram is titled "2007 Seadoo 150 Speedster 180 Challenger Shop Manual". I think they changed in 09. Your beeper may not be working. These electrical problems are tough due to the scarcity of replacement parts. A couple of years ago I bought a new ECM and an used VCM due to a DESS problem. Ended up not needing the VCM. ECM cost $750. Before I changed the VCM I removed the entire wiring harness to clean up all the plug/jacks.

 

[Mister Magoo]

I do not remember it beeping at all with the battery switch on and the key on the post. The last time I had it working and the engine turning over with the switch, I was testing the ignition coils. I had the fuel pump disconnected, and only 1 ignition coil plugged in. I was going to have my wife turn the motor over with the button while I watched for spark. However, when I tried this the engine would not turn over. All I did though was plug the other 2 ignition coils back in and I was able to have my wife use the start button to turn the motor over and I verified all 3 ignition coils were sparking. This is when I forgot to take the key off the post. I dont remember how long I was in the barn the night, but I know I never heard it beeping like crazy and I know I was back in there the next morning and didnt hear anything.

Look for these 4 inline fuses near the battery switch.

 

[ryanw10]

Look for these 4 inline fuses near the battery switch.

I only have 3 there, I do not have the 1 amp fuse that goes to the radio. But all 3 fuses I have there are good

 

[Mister Magoo]

I only have 3 there, I do not have the 1 amp fuse that goes to the radio. But all 3 fuses I have there are good

So that means this diagram is valid for your boat. Make sure your battery is good, you say its charged but. Your going to have to start tracing the power distribution. I would start at the starter solenoid. To me it sounds like your losing between the fuse box and ECM.

 

[ryanw10]

So that means this diagram is valid for your boat. Make sure your battery is good, you say its charged but. Your going to have to start tracing the power distribution. I would start at the starter solenoid. To me it sounds like your losing between the fuse box and ECM.

I tried another known good battery and still the same story. I have 12 volts at the following places with the battery switch on, and key off:
-Starter solenoid
-Round plug on Engine ECU
-Black plug on the module by the air filter (voltage regulator maybe?)
-Both round plugs at VCM by the dash

When I put the key on I then get 12 volts at the following places:
-All fuses on Engine ECU
-Fuel pump kicks on for about 5 seconds
-All fuses on VCM by dash
-Dash Plug
-Buzzer plug
The dash and buzzer plug only have 11.8 volts where the main power wire going to the VCM has 12.6


I also have cleaned and checked the 3 grounds on the front of the engine, and ground bar by VCM.

 

[Mister Magoo]

Remember +12 is supplied, its the ground that the ECU switches. Do you have +12 going to the coils and injectors when the keys is on?

 

[ryanw10]

Remember +12 is supplied, its the ground that the ECU switches. Do you have +12 going to the coils and injectors when the keys is on?

So far all ground pins at the connectors that I have found test good as well.

With the key on, I have 12 volts on 1 pin of each the injector, and coil plug connectors. The injectors have 2.5 volts on the other pin, and the other pin on the coil plugs do not have any voltage

 

[ryanw10]

I found this post this morning doing some research.
I did crank it over for a while with the coils unplugged during the compression test and testing for spark on the coil plugs.

 

[ryanw10]

Is there a way I can test the buzzer? Can I just put 12 volts to it and I should hear it?

 

[Mister Magoo]

Is there a way I can test the buzzer? Can I just put 12 volts to it and I should hear it?

yes

 

[ryanw10]

Buzzer works good with 12 volts applied. I'm thinking it's an issue with the dash itself, as everything else seems to work. The only things that I don't have when I put the key on is no beeps, dash stays blank, and the only thing I get with the on off button is the red light illuminates. When pushed.

All other accessory switches work fine (blower, bilge, radio, etc,) fuel pump kicks on for 3ish seconds when the key is put on the post, and it runs when you push the on/off switch. The dash even gets 12 volts with the key on the post, but shows nothing.

 

[Mister Magoo]

I hate to say this but it sounds like the ECM. Even if the gauge cluster is blank the beeper should work and the engine should start.