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No Spark - 96 XP

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pwgsx

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Well I picked up another 96 xp needing some work, already did the usual fuel lines, carbs, pump rebuild. However it cranks over at 150 psi each hole but wont start. I didnt have much time last night to mess with it but I did pull the plugs and have some oil coming out of the holes, not much but there is oil/gas mix. I kinda attribute that to it sitting for 3 years not being used and the gas dial was in the "on" position for who knows how long. Grounded the spark plugs and I dont have spark. Tried the other plug and same thing. What do I need to start testing and how?
Thanks
 
Not sure, never encountered this issue before. It only has 1 button for start/stop and the motor does turn over and this model has the dess post. All gauges work and light up.
 
Under the front cover is the magnetic pickup that tells the electronics when to spark. The 96' ones are know to be weak and break causing no spark.
 
From what I can find, I need to check grounds and fuses in the rear box, also check coil with a ohm tester. Would a voltage reg/rectifier cause no spark? IF that all checks out I guess I will be pulling the front cover off. Doesn't look like fun with the exhaust pipe in the way.
 
Make sure to pop the wires out of the coil, it's kind of a pain but it was really bad in mine. Looked ok from the outside too. Front cover can be done, the $16 metric set of 1/4in sockets from harbor freight is a good purchase for this if you don't have small wrenches.
 
You can ohm test the pickup from the yellow wires in the grey box via the instructions in the service manual. I like the "12v test light test" though. Just ground the alligator clip end and put the pointed end in on the end of the white wire that connects to the coil in the rear electrical box. When you spin the engine over with the starter you should see a slight glow in the test light(one with a dome light style bulb in it not the red led one). This confirms that you are or are not getting a signal from the pickup.
 
There r two wires that go to the negative battery terminal. If the small one is loose or broken you can crank but you will not get spark.
 
I have had many broken rectifiers and I still get spark. The ski will run erratic with a broken rectifier/regulator. When broken it spikes the mpem and causes it to run real rough or not go at all but it always started. I believe it will start even when disconnected.
 
There r two wires that go to the negative battery terminal. If the small one is loose or broken you can crank but you will not get spark.

Just me, but this is where I would start too. If that wire is broken or corroded in the connector in the top of the rear ebox you can spin it over until the cows come home and it will never spark. My last place I would go is in the stator cover. Start with the easy stuff and work to the harder stuff.
 
650 is most likely right, but you gotta do what Braley described first. If you have another 96 around to steal a cdi out of its worth trying, but in the 96 the pickup is fairly common.
 
Dove into it and after checking grounds, I found what looks to be repaired once before. Got the tester out and sure enough, no readings from either wire. Hopefully this is the whole issue and not just a piece of the puzzle.
 

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Dove into it and after checking grounds, I found what looks to be repaired once before. Got the tester out and sure enough, no readings from either wire. Hopefully this is the whole issue and not just a piece of the puzzle.

Is that electrical tape wrapped all around the coil?
 
Ok, I yanked out the old coil and good thing bc the screw inside the coil was rusted away and the wires just pulled out. I was hoping this was the issue but NO :( . I then did the light test on the white wire going to the coil and there was no glow at all. I finally pulled the front cover off and found rust, rust and more rust. Attached are the pics. What should I replace?
 

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That baby must of had a bad gasket somewhere. Test all the electrical parts in there and replace what needs it. Even the flywheel is all rusted up. Me I would get some new used parts for it with no rust
 
You think I could take a scotch pad and clean up the flywheel and cup enough to keep it in there without removing it? The plan is to run it till it dies and then rebuild the motor and everything. So far it has 150/148 compression. I am sure the water came in when the old owner removed the oil injection and left just a hole in the front.
 
Me I would just spend like $100 dollars or so to get some cleaned used ones. That's just me fix it once and done. Rust likes to come back. I just don't like to break down on the water with a dead battery or turn it off and it won't start
 
Make sure you replace that pickup coil. Those are the ones that break. You'll see the new one has a stronger mounting bracket.

Chester
 
Just ordered a new coil and pickup, pretty sure this one is shot ( metal tab is rusted off )
 
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