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Newbie questions

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Big problem. You want to be within 10 % of each other. I would say your rear cylinder or pto side is the low one. Am I correct? They tend to be the ones to blow due to the rear carbs internal filter being plugged. As for adding oil that is just going to throw your numbers off. You do not want any extra fluids in the motor. 120 is at the complete bottom end of compression before your motor blows. This dealer seems a bit on the shady side.
 
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Jetskigoodies said:
Big problem. You want to be within 10 % of each other. I would say your rear cylinder or pto side is the low one. Am I correct? They tend to be the ones to blow due to the rear carbs internal filter being plugged. As for adding oil that is just going to throw your numbers off. You do not want any extra fluids in the motor. 120 is at the complete bottom end of compression before your motor blows. This dealer seems a bit on the shady side.
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Yes, rear one is low. I'll discuss with the dealer when I return for the VTS. What is the fix, just pull the jugs, hone, replace rings and clean the carbs? Or are there other things like crank seals that need to be replaced?
 
I'm gonna tell you straight, you may not like it but it's time for a remanufactured engine. I'm really sorry your first experience has been bad. I doubt you have any legal recourse at the dealer but go talk to him you haven't got anything to loose.

Lou
 
LouDoo said:
I'm gonna tell you straight, you may not like it but it's time for a remanufactured engine. I'm really sorry your first experience has been bad. I doubt you have any legal recourse at the dealer but go talk to him you haven't got anything to loose.

Lou
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There went the buzz I had from my last Southern Pecan. Guess I can drive the heck out of it for the rest of my 60 day warranty and see if she blows!
 
Whoa Nellie, you've got a warranty, sorry I guess I missed it. If it were me I would see the dealer about the warranty, if he's reasonable he'll honor it, if not I would go see an Attorney. Or possibly the BBB, maybe they can arbitrate a solution.

I would go now, don't wait until there is major damage. You need to be reasonable too.

Lou
 
LouDoo said:
Whoa Nellie, you've got a warranty, sorry I guess I missed it. If it were me I would see the dealer about the warranty, if he's reasonable he'll honor it, if not I would go see an Attorney. Or possibly the BBB, maybe they can arbitrate a solution.

I would go now, don't wait until there is major damage. You need to be reasonable too.

Lou
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Yea, I will definitely discuss it with them this week, but I can't see them giving me a new engine if it's still running. I'll ask them to do their own compression test and go from there. One question, why a remanufactured engine, why couldn't it possibly be fixed?
 
I guess it's just my mindset. For an amateur mechanic such as myself it's the easiest and cheapest way to go, plus you get a warranty. There's nothing wrong with an independent re-build if it's done right.

Lou
 
Reman is the fix at this point. If they try telling you that it just needs new rings, or a new top end then that is false. If you put a new top end on then your crank will not be able to take all the new found compression. The crank will quickly fail and you could have major problems when the crank fails. With major problems I mean cracking cases, crank snapping, or jugs even cracking. Then it will be more expensive to fix because those items will not be able to be used as cores and replacments will need to be purchased. If you simply research people putting new top ends on you will see that their crank fails soon after. I think there was just a post today about this happening in the boat forum. At this point you may want to take them up on switching out with another seadoo. If that is still on the table. The first thing that needs to be checked when buying one of these is the compression. You want to be at around 150 per cylinder for one in good shape.
 
pudd750 said:
noob here- not sure that vented battery is USCG approved for the enclosure -AGM type is what im looking to keep in mine -i was told AGM batteries will vent if pushed , but they try not to -
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You can use vented batteries, there is a tube that should be hooked up that vents to the outside of the hull, there is even a clip on the battery tray. I do not use them, sealed agm is the way to go but you can use them. They are cheaper and this dealer did not want to pay $80-100 for a new battery
 
Well hopefully they honor the warranty. A reman is the way to go when you plan to own it a long time. Then you know everything has been gone thru, every bearing and seal replaced.

You might want to see if you can get them to do the deinstall/reinstall for you if you buy the motor. That will be cheaper for them and get you out of their hair forever...plus that is likely cheaper than doing a top end.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'll see what the dealer will do. Doubt they'd offer to replace the engine, but they might offer me a different ski or as Nick says install an engine I bought. The only problem getting a different ski is I'd have the same type of issues in this price range.

I am though the kind of person that works on anything I own, from washing machines to replacing a piston & head in my daughters Passat to putting a new roof on my house last year. While I've never dug into a jet ski I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I get allot of enjoyment from doing my own repairs. I may make mistakes and have no warranty but I've had pretty good luck over the years.
 
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Well see what the dealer will do for you first, but these seadoos are quite simple machines. If you replaced a piston in a car, you can definitely handle doing a SBT motor swap.

They owe you though...it was worth no more than $1000, prob less with a bad motor. Plus no gauges, plus a bad VTS...

At least you found the mecca of X-4 junkies, and the best parts guy out there...LOL We will get you through it.

Your gauges went out yesterday.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
Well see what the dealer will do for you first, but these seadoos are quite simple machines. If you replaced a piston in a car, you can definitely handle doing a SBT motor swap.

They owe you though...it was worth no more than $1000, prob less with a bad motor. Plus no gauges, plus a bad VTS...

At least you found the mecca of X-4 junkies, and the best parts guy out there...LOL We will get you through it.

Your gauges went out yesterday.
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Mecca's are good! I do appreciate the words of wisdom.... Well, just got home from a visit to the dealer. They confirmed the VTS motor is bad and are going to order and install a new one. So far so good.

I next told him about the compression readings I got, and he offered to check again and called his tech out. He got 150 in the rear and around 165 in the front cylinder. He thinks the ski is fine and that my compression tester was faulty. His was a Snap-on, mine is a cheap Actron. I think two things are at play, first, there's probably still some oil left in the cylinders that I added yesterday which inflated the reading. Second, I think his tester might be reading a little high.

The bottom line is I'm going to keep the thing and keep an eye on the compression. If I can get a couple of seasons out of it before it needs a rebuild I'll be happy. Since I enjoy working on it and would like to improve it over time, rebuilding the engine or getting a reman someday will only improve the ski. Hopefully will get the gauges installed before I take it back for the VTS motor. Now I just need some warmer weather!
 
Making some progress. Installed a TTO rpm/hour meter and the gauges procured from Nick at West Side Powersports. Can't believe how much better it looks with the gauges and I'm really pumped. Gauges seem to be working fine except the gas gauge is not receiving a reading from the baffle.

Pulled the baffle out today and did find a small magnet laying on the baffle filter. My question now is where do I glue the magnet? Does it go right in the middle of the slot in the float?

float.jpg

dash.jpg
 
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I dont think anyone has any success in glueing them back in, the glue wont stand up to being soaked in fuel all the time. You will need to get a new one, they are about $10 part #295 500 438.

.
445.jpg


Make sure your internal fuse is not blown as well. Put an ohm meter on the baffle and see if you get a reading when you slide the magnet up and down the baffle. Should read from around 20 to 80 as you slide it in the baffle.
 
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Minne, do the brown ones sink the same as the white and black ones? Or were the magnets the only issue with those ones?
 
Ive never seen that style sink...only the older and newer style with two magnets. I have had great luck with the style above.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
I havent had any issue...just some good superglue (loc-tite brand) glue to the bottom of the foam.
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Thanks. Didn't have any superglue laying around so went ahead and used full strength JB weld. I once used that stuff to repair a hole in the bottom of a fuel bowl in a Mercruiser carb and it lasted for about 8 years before I sold it. I don't think gas fazes the stuff. Will let it harden overnight. I did slide it in the baffle after the glue set an hour or so for a test and am getting readings of 89 at the bottom to 0 at top, so evidently my fuse is ok.

Couple of other questions. I still have the gray fuel line coming off the baffle for the vent side. Is that a problem? Second, what types of fuel clamps work best? Three of the clear hoses just had zip ties on them, and the grey had the squeeze metal clamp.
 
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Got my repaired baffle installed. Gas gauge is working correctly, thanks Nick.

Going back to the dealer tomorrow to have the replacement VTS motor installed. I'm also going to try to talk the dealer into swapping the wet battery (without vent hose) with a dry cell. If I can't talk them into doing it for free, will at least ask them to just charge me the difference between the price of a wet and dry cell battery. Considering I paid $2850 for the ski with trailer & 60-day warranty I hope they will do it.

Ready for the weather to warm up and get some hours on the ski. Appreciate everyone who posted on this thread and look forward to keep making my ski better and quicker!
 
I think I'm done with the dealer. Just made my 2nd 80 mile trip to their shop to get the VTS repaired, and all they did was buy a used motor off Ebay. A tech installed the motor but couldn't get it working because he hadn't checked the fuse. After I mentioned it was blown he replaced it and it worked. However it won't register on the VTS gauge and they don't seem to want to fix that.

While I was waiting I asked them to upgrade the battery to a sealed unit since the one they installed at the sale didn't have a vent hose. They were happy to oblige but charged me $66 for the upgrade. I was hoping they'd offer to pay the difference but no dice. I also didn't get a spare DESS and after reading the forum most people recommended getting a Seadoo DESS from the dealer. So had them program one. $60 for the DESS, $5 to program. When I got home realized it was a generic one, I think Atlantis. Very soft rubber and a cheap lanyard with the dealers name on it.

No more dealer for me but would welcome some help on the VTS gauge. When I put the DESS on the VTS gauge goes all the way to the top. They cycled the trim up and down a couple of times, but the gauge needle never moved or reset itself. I sure hope the whole VTS box is not bad. Is that something that can be worked on, and how hard is it to remove. I noticed the dealer had 3 other XP's in stock and would think out of 4 units one of them must be good!
 
Finally solved my VTS issues thanks to Minnetonka4me! Thought my VTS might be bad, but got a new rod & magnet from Nick and put it in the ski tonight. Low and below I'm now getting the correct ohm readings from the VTS box. Evidently the magnet on my rod was corroded and was not activating the reed switches. I owe a big thank you to Minnetonka4me for the advice and great deals on parts. If anyone is having issues with their gauge staying in the up position you might want to check the magnet. On the replacement rod the magnet had a smooth black epoxy look, the rod I removed was very corroded. Tried to post some pictures but my phone doesn't like extreme close ups.

Appreciate everyone who posted on this tread and am ready to hit the lake this weekend. Temps are supposed to be in the high 70s!

rodgood.jpgrodbad.jpg
 
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