get_real
Active Member
It's the purple & tan. What does the beeper do? Should I hook it back up?
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Newbie questions
- Thread starter get_real
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It's the purple & tan. What does the beeper do? Should I hook it back up?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
When you hook your key up to the post a series of beeps will sound, 2 short beeps lets you know everything is ok with the electrical system to start up, sometimes when you have an issue different series of beeps may sound, the beeps are indicators to problems. Also if your engine is overheating it will sound to let you know to shut it down. So yes hook it back up
get_real
Active Member
Ok, hooked it back up and got two beeps. How hard to you have to push the key on, it doesn't seem to fit very well. I have to push it down to make it beep, is that normal or do the keys wear out?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
The key takes a little bit of force, more like a wiggle and then it should stay on fairly well but they do wear out and they are about $60 new and then you will need to have it programmed. A dealer will program them for a fee it ranges from dealer to dealer, but your dealer should do it cheap since you paid a premium. You can have spare keys made. I think up to 6 keys can be programmed to your mpem
get_real
Active Member
Thanks. I'll have to play with it some, it dosen't feel like it snaps on securely.
I did call the dealer again today and he checked the other 3 XP's he has on the lot and says they all have no gauges and black disks. Very curious why they are all missing. My guess would be that they were removed by a dealer at some point in the past to either sell on ebay or to other customers. I don't see how or why an individual would do that becuase I wouldn't think they'd have access to the black disks to place over the empty holes. I thought maybe he'd offer to find some for me or something else to help cover the expense, but no go. I do like the ski so I'm going to go ahead and buy some used guages and install them. Guess it's my fault for being inexperienced and not getting them to knock something off the price before the sale. :banghead:
It is what it is...your better off than some newbs. Cant tell you how many times we hear "just needs a starter" when the engine is rusted solid.
Although...you havent put it on the water yet. I would do that ASAP to make sure it runs correctly. On the trailer and on the water are very different with jetskis.
Although...you havent put it on the water yet. I would do that ASAP to make sure it runs correctly. On the trailer and on the water are very different with jetskis.
WhiskeyD
Well-Known Member
x2, I'd test it on my next day off even if it was cold. For the price you paid I'd raise hell if it doesn't run perfect. Have you checked the condition of the wear ring in the water pump?
get_real
Active Member
Thanks, heard it's going to be in the 60's this weekend so am going to take it out for sure. I've got a 60 day warranty from the dealer, and if I find anything wrong I'll definetly get them to take care of it. I don't know how to check the wear ring. I'll have to look that up in the manual. Anything else you recommend I check before the first ride? I'm planning to check the fuel filter and make sure that is clean.
P.S. Great avatar!
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get_real
Active Member
Pulled the grate and checked out the wear ring. Clearances are tight, around .012, and the surface looks pretty smooth. Taking it out to the lake tomorrow and will report back on how it runs.
Also pulled the fuel filter. No water, but there were a few pieces of crud in the bottom of the bowl. The filter looks very clean. I had to unbolt the unit to ensure the filter was centered before screwing on the bowl. Is that how everyone else does it?
Also pulled the fuel filter. No water, but there were a few pieces of crud in the bottom of the bowl. The filter looks very clean. I had to unbolt the unit to ensure the filter was centered before screwing on the bowl. Is that how everyone else does it?
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Aftermarket prop in there....Solas concord I think. +1...
get_real
Active Member
Just got back from the lake. The ski is awesome. Took a few seconds to start, but that might have been because I had emptied the fuel filter bowl. Ran it at 1/2 to 1/3 throttle after leaving the no-wake zone to warm it up. Had a little issue at first with it wobbling back & forth, but it stopped after giving it more juice. Hope that is normal. After getting a feel of the power finally got up the nerve to try WOT.
This thing is scary fast. No hesitation at any speed and it really accelerates quickly. You have to hold on to prevent flying off the back. Also found you need to keep your feet on the angled part when you decel or you'll going flying into the handlebars. Overall I'm very please with the ski and think it's sound. I don't hear any strange sounds except for a rattle in the left mirror.
I do have a few issues questions I'd like to ask if anyone could give me some advice.
- Had a hard time getting it launched. I sat on it while my wife backed it in, but it wouldn't float off even with the back tires of the van in the water. Had to place my foot on the trailer to push it backward. Is that normal depending on the angle of the ramp, and are there any other tricks to get it off. Drove it back on so that was not an issue.
- The first time at WOT if felt very smooth, but the last time I felt like it was sucking air once it a while as it would seem to slow & surge every couple of seconds. Not a major surge, very minor. It was a little rough....could this have been caused because of the waves and the jet dynamics grate?.
- The VTS didn't seem to be working. I could not hear a motor spin nor did I feel the bow raise or lower. I'm sure there are some threads I can read along with the manual.
- Lastly is it normal for the back of the ski to be below the water line and water to flow onto the floorboards. It would all come off when I was running, but it freaked me out a little as I thought maybe the hull was leaking. Checked and it was not. I'm 180, so can't imagine putting another adult on it.
- On the water separator, if I placed the filter on first there was no room to put the bowl back on as it was too close to the oil tank, so I took the nut off to reassemble then put the nut back on.
- Do I have to pull the prop off to validate the brand?
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Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
1.The rattle in the left mirror is an easy fix, open the hood and take off that access panel. Then just reach your hand up near the mirror and you will feel a wing nut, just tighten it down some and that should do it.
2. Having water in the foot wells is normal.
3. The VTS can have many different problems. On the back of the seadoo by the pump, there is a rubber boot, check that for tears. The stock stainless steel clamps tend to cut into the rubber and they tear and water then goes into the housing. If you take off your seat look towards the back of the hull for the vts housing, take off the cover and inspect the motor and connections.
2. Having water in the foot wells is normal.
3. The VTS can have many different problems. On the back of the seadoo by the pump, there is a rubber boot, check that for tears. The stock stainless steel clamps tend to cut into the rubber and they tear and water then goes into the housing. If you take off your seat look towards the back of the hull for the vts housing, take off the cover and inspect the motor and connections.
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El Toro 33809
Well-Known Member
To address some of your items:
- launching - ramps can be different. Water levels can be up and down. I'm sure you did everything correctly, the ramp didn't drop off quickly or you have a short tongue on your trailer.
- surging/VTS - if there were waves, the impeller could be sucking air. This could also be VTS related as well. Sounds like the system isn't working and the setting it is stuck on could have the nose al little high.
- water level - the design on the hull is such that water will come in the footwells when not in motion. Nothing to worry about.
get_real
Active Member
Thanks ElToro & JSG. Glad to know the footwell flooding is normal and how to fix the mirror rattle.
Checked out the VTS. The VTS boot looks good and relatively new, but there was a little moisture/water in the VTS box. Also, the motor wires were disconnected. I then pulled the fuse from the rear electric box and found someone had replaced it with a 10 amp fuse, and it was blown. I put it all back together. Based on the fact the dealer gave me a 60 day warranty I plan to let them troubleshoot it and get it working. I would assume the warranty should cover the VTS.
Checked out the VTS. The VTS boot looks good and relatively new, but there was a little moisture/water in the VTS box. Also, the motor wires were disconnected. I then pulled the fuse from the rear electric box and found someone had replaced it with a 10 amp fuse, and it was blown. I put it all back together. Based on the fact the dealer gave me a 60 day warranty I plan to let them troubleshoot it and get it working. I would assume the warranty should cover the VTS.
kicker
Well-Known Member
[
- The first time at WOT if felt very smooth, but the last time I felt like it was sucking air once it a while as it would seem to slow & surge every couple of seconds. Not a major surge, very minor. It was a little rough....could this have been caused because of the waves and the jet dynamics grate?.
Be sure to grease your PTO, that will keep your driveshaft tight against the carbon ring so you dont such air through there. That will cause a surge or cavitation as well. Chances are, what is happening is what El Toro explained, but good to grease it anyway.
- The first time at WOT if felt very smooth, but the last time I felt like it was sucking air once it a while as it would seem to slow & surge every couple of seconds. Not a major surge, very minor. It was a little rough....could this have been caused because of the waves and the jet dynamics grate?.
Be sure to grease your PTO, that will keep your driveshaft tight against the carbon ring so you dont such air through there. That will cause a surge or cavitation as well. Chances are, what is happening is what El Toro explained, but good to grease it anyway.
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
The fuse is suppose to be a 7.5 fuse. The previous owner probably put a 10 in to see if it would stop blowing it(wrong thing to do with fuses you can go down but never go up). The fuse is blowing because the vts housing probably has a short. I think he disconnected the wires because he may of had problems. My friend picked up a 96 xp for $100. The mpem was blown, we put a good mpem in and the seadoo fired up, the problem was the vts started to smoke. We disconnected the vts right away. If you keep blowing the fuse, replacing the fuse is not going to help, you will either have to replace the whole vts housing or do the vts fix. A bad vts housing can short the mpem, that is what happened to my friends.
On that $100 xp, we thought that may have been the only problem but it was not, low compression in 1 cylinder, one jug was cracked, head was pitted, bad stator. He is in the process of a complete rebuild
On that $100 xp, we thought that may have been the only problem but it was not, low compression in 1 cylinder, one jug was cracked, head was pitted, bad stator. He is in the process of a complete rebuild
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Since you seem to be very detailed and paranoid (its a noob thing) I think your surging was prob just chop.
And Ill bet you a coors light that dealer gives you a runaround on replacing the VTS. Well that is unless they yank it out of a parts machine.
And Ill bet you a coors light that dealer gives you a runaround on replacing the VTS. Well that is unless they yank it out of a parts machine.
Seadoo96spx
New Member
I am a new guy too and I think I will be able to get all the information I need on this forum.
get_real
Active Member
Thanks everyone. Yea, I'm probably a little over cautious, but the forum is a great tool and appreciate being able to learn from the pros. Was wondering where that grease fitting was and found it today. Didn't realize that was a plastic cover, thought it was part of the motor. The rubber boot feels full of grease, but will add a little anyway. Not sure I have any marine grade grease so may get some first.
Hopefully they will take care of the VTS, but you never know, there's always the fine print. I think it's pretty poor that they didn't test the VTS out to ensure it was working before they sold it to me.
kicker
Well-Known Member
Sorry forgot to tell you about the cover, when you pump the grease in, dont put to much in, once the rubber starts to expand a bit that is enough. If it is really empty and has not been greased for a while, you will see the driveshaft move a little towards the back.
get_real
Active Member
Called the dealer today to see about the VTS. He said to bring it in and they would fix it. Asked why they didn't fix it before the sale and he said normally they don't bother and leave the trim in a neutral position as the motors are always burning out and most people don't need it. Never had a jet ski before but I know with a boat you use it all the time. How long do the motors typically last and how often does one use it?
They will last forever if the boot gets replaced every couple years. They rot pretty fast then leak water in...then poof goes the module.
Its not something you HAVE to have but it def changes how it rides and overall speed.
Its not something you HAVE to have but it def changes how it rides and overall speed.
get_real
Active Member
Thanks, hopefully they will replace the motor with a new one.
I also thought I'd do a compression test today to ensure there are no issues. Got 138 front, 120 rear on a cold engine. Put a little oil in each cylinder and tried it again. This time 155 front, 138 rear. Seems like the rings are a little worn, especially on the rear. How much of a problem is the 18 lbs difference between the cylinders? It seems to run well so would like to know if anyone would recommend doing anything now?
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