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jammin777
Well-Known Member
so is it safe to use marine grease where the manual says to use synthetic grease? ive been wondering about that.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Healthy results, congrats!
Your mileage may vary, objects in mirror are closer than they may appear! As long as both cylinders continue receiving their air/fuel + oil in the correct ratios, you likely will obtain many more hours. Avoid over-revving, my belief is the 951 shouldn't be run hard for more than a short period of time b/c the cylinder temps rise too much due to the quantity of heat generated. Running substandard fuel (stale or poor grade), especially at accidentally lean ratios, quickly leads to detonation and piston damage. Lean meaning there will eventually be some fuel delivery issues crop up as most any fuel system can become gummed with varnish, contamination, corrosion, inward air leaks at seals or fittings, worn or aged components over a period of time. Avoid running, especially at high speed and load, if the engine is not making power and responding to the throttle as it should, in these cases a lean fuel condition is often the culprit, a culprit that quickly leads to damage.
Repeat compression test early and often to monitor engine condition (I test mine end of every season, minimum, regardless of how well the engine has been running. Every time the spark plugs are removed for inspection wouldn't be a bad idea, IMO) and don't run a damaged engine, a worn engine quickly leads to further damage b/c thermal blow-by will compromise the oil film cushion between the piston and cylinder walls. Excessive bore clearance traps heat in the piston dome, leading to over-heating pistons, oil film failure, and cylinder seizure issues.
Remove and dissassemble the pneumatic RAVE power valves and scrub the carbon off the valve blades at least once per season, monitor wear in the cast bellows housing shaft bore. Look for signs excessive wear in the shaft bore has allowed hot exhaust to enter the rubber bellows area and damage the rubber/plastic components used to actuate the valves pneumatically. Running better oil makes for fewer carbon deposits on the blades and in the cylinder slides, carbon is abrasive and power is compromised if the blades cannot move freely.
hi jack im in uk too durham area (north east) iv had loads of help off the guys on here for all sorts of problems.
as long as your ski is in good condition with not a lot of hours on clock then the price is quite reasonable for uk.
hope it goes well for you and as for parts theres loads on e.bay but if you get stuck and don't mind the shipping costs then the guys on here are all first rate, cheers fred
as long as your ski is in good condition with not a lot of hours on clock then the price is quite reasonable for uk.
hope it goes well for you and as for parts theres loads on e.bay but if you get stuck and don't mind the shipping costs then the guys on here are all first rate, cheers fred
we tend to stay local im only 20 mins from coast so we use the sea mostly (as long as its flushed every time we use salt water, never had any problems due to salt.
tatersal lakes is over your neck of the woods (theres 7 separate lakes all dedicated to different watersports (jetsking included).
im 70 next month and still go sking (mainly in the summer now) regular.
the lakes windermere ulswater ext all have 10knot speed limits so no use for skiing and the west coast tends to have realy low tides so tatersal may be your best option.
tatersal lakes is over your neck of the woods (theres 7 separate lakes all dedicated to different watersports (jetsking included).
im 70 next month and still go sking (mainly in the summer now) regular.
the lakes windermere ulswater ext all have 10knot speed limits so no use for skiing and the west coast tends to have realy low tides so tatersal may be your best option.
RodInEscondido
Well-Known Member
That is what I was referring to also: grease. I just tossed in the oil piece because I did not see it mentioned in earlier posts and it tends to be a rather important topic, especially for a new owner.
SeaDoo specifies synthetic grease for the grease fitting(s). They have their own brand; I have not looked for other brands yet, got this tube to use first:
As long as I am on grease, I use the following on everything that might get water on it, not that I am any expert, but so far, so good for about 30 years (also available in tubes for grease guns):
For the pump, SeaDoo, of course, specifies their own. For me, if Doc Honda says it is good to use a good quality full synthetic, I cannot dispute it (plus check the price on the little bottle):
Rod's $0.03 (U.S.) worth
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JackJones
New Member
So we took the ski to a local lake and tried it out, only to find it was bogging out around 5000 revs. We thought it could of been dirty fuel. So we swapped it out for new fuel but it run the same, I might add the vts didn't seem to work at all.
Before we took the ski to the lake, we did a compression test and it seemed we had good compression as stated above.
We left the ski with the mechanics on the lake who said it seemed like a carb issue and wouldn't cost much to rectify.
After waiting a week for a call, I decided to ring them and see what the hold up was. Here comes the bad news..... They cleaned off the carbs and took the ski around the lake 5 time which seemed to run fine and not bog out. Then the problem hit and they had to take the ski off the lake for further investigation.
Apparently, the engine has water in and it has some problem with the electrics. I haven't had the full information yet and I'm waiting for a call later today.
What I was told is that they may not even take on the task of fixing the ski as it could cost a lot of money.
Do you guys think I trust these guys or do you guys think I should take the ski somewhere else.
I'll post later with what he says.
Before we took the ski to the lake, we did a compression test and it seemed we had good compression as stated above.
We left the ski with the mechanics on the lake who said it seemed like a carb issue and wouldn't cost much to rectify.
After waiting a week for a call, I decided to ring them and see what the hold up was. Here comes the bad news..... They cleaned off the carbs and took the ski around the lake 5 time which seemed to run fine and not bog out. Then the problem hit and they had to take the ski off the lake for further investigation.
Apparently, the engine has water in and it has some problem with the electrics. I haven't had the full information yet and I'm waiting for a call later today.
What I was told is that they may not even take on the task of fixing the ski as it could cost a lot of money.
Do you guys think I trust these guys or do you guys think I should take the ski somewhere else.
I'll post later with what he says.
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I copied this from another post as I was told to keep it all in one thread
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I disagree. This post has topics from oil, where to ride, to posting vids of the work that is done.
In your other post you have specific mechanical advice that you are seeking. It should have its own post. I replied to your original post and suggest you return to that post so that the information you seek is in one place.
where was it you went as most of the guys are good but theres a few cowboys out there as in any trade.
see what they say and take it from there sometimes its better to do it yourself (with a bit help from the guys on here) that way you know your not being ripped off.
water is a big problem but without it you couldn't ski anyway. if you catch problem soon enough its usualy an easy fix. but if its left will do serious damage.
good luck and don't let this issue put you off. cheers freed
see what they say and take it from there sometimes its better to do it yourself (with a bit help from the guys on here) that way you know your not being ripped off.
water is a big problem but without it you couldn't ski anyway. if you catch problem soon enough its usualy an easy fix. but if its left will do serious damage.
good luck and don't let this issue put you off. cheers freed
JackJones
New Member
I am certainly not letting this put me off, we have decided to collect the ski tomorrow and take it to a friends place where we can strip it down, I have the manuals for the ski and my friend strips down 2 stroke bikes all the time so I'm hoping he has a good basic understanding of the way the ski works. Hopefully it won't be as bad as this guy is making out. I'm sure if I come up stuck I can ask the guys on here for some help.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry, since the thread owner requested the thread be deleted, that's what I did. You may want to start another new thread.
Lou
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
that plan is probably a good idea.
I've never actually had water in an engine so id be curious what symptoms that may cause, and of course how it got there is a dam good question that needs to be answered. Generally speaking IF there was water in there and it was there for more than a few days, you wouldn't have a running engine right now.
I assume you didn't tow it back to the ramp when you took it back to swap out fuel ? But just drove it back ?
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