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New here...oil pump question

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bhilton2v

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Hello all,

Name is Brandon. I have two doo's. 97 GSI and a 96 XP. The 97 has been a trooper and never let me down. Basic maintenance has consisted of prop and wear ring and keeping it lubed up good.

Now for the 96...list of things I've done:

Wear ring and prop
starter
battery changed
carb clean/rebuild
fuel lines changed
RAVES cleaned
stator and rectifier changed

First time in the water this year led to about 15 seconds of churning/cavitation feel. Finally ran ok but not like normal. Went to clean carbs again and started looking at the oil pump. The "plate" on the top of the oil pump had lost both screws and the tension in the throttle line was off. When I pulled it off the mag cover the oil pump shaft was chewed up on the end that goes into the flywheel. I have a replacement on the way. Could this cause the strange churning. Both plugs were oil fouled and on that first ride I had to tow it back. Upon cleaning the carbs and reassemble I dropped a washer and had to feel for it under the engine. While feeling around I found a metal pin with a cir-clip on it. Never seen this before. Pics attached of said part.

0606122052.jpg
 
I can't quite see the pin, with the "E" clip on it... but I'm thinking it's not from your ski. (I can't think of where it would go)

I think you got lucky with the oil pump, (since the plugs are oil fouled) and this is why I try to push the importance of oil system maintenance on this forum. If you go over the system yearly... you won't have problems. I'm going to assume that this is the first time, in 16 years that the oil system has had any attention. Along with the things you are doing... make sure the check valves, and nipples in the manifold are clean and clear... make sure the hoses aren't decaying (give them a good twist, and pull) and change filter in the feed hose.

Let's talk about your "Churning" issue.

Was the engine reving up, and you weren't going? Or, was the engine just not reving up?
 
The pin is about 1/2 inch long with a shoulder on the opposite side of the e-clip. i have looked at a couple different diagrams of the systems i have been in touch with and i dont' see where it would go either. Hoses look fine. i'll have to change that filter though. The churning is more like hitting a rev limiter but the motor is not reaching peak rpms to hit a limiter. kind of what a sport bike sounds like when you pull in the clutch and just let it rev. dadadaddadda... boat moving slowly then gets up on the pipe and moves out. To my knowledge this is the first time the oil system has had attention paid to it. Thanks!

Brandon
 
OK... that's cavitation. Either you have a wear ring that is totally shot... or more likely... the carbon seal is leaking, and needs replaced. (That's the drive shaft seal)
 
wear ring and prop is new (less than a year of riding). Carbon seal is a definite possibility, but the ski sat in the water when it went down and I didn't see an excess of water in the hull. I'm still leaning towards the carbs and oil pump not operating correctly due to the screws in the plate working themselves out. We'll see when I get it going again and then a variable will be eliminated.
 
New Developments:

XP - oil pump shaft came in. i installed and it came to life. However, i don't see any oil in the lines moving. This scares me quite a bit and i'd like to know if there is a special priming sequence. There is no air in the large feed line that goes to the pump. Also, the 2x4 i had under the motor for support slid towards the back. Bent drive shaft?? Ski was not put into the water this weekend so i still have no answer if the cavitation was carbon seal related.

Now for the GSI. Major vibration involved. I changed out the head pipe gasket that i thought was causing an exhaust leak. The three bolts and one stud all were loose. Two of the bolts completely out and in the hull. Both alan head bolts that are in the brace going from head to carb were gone. the bottom bolt on the mag cover was loose. The wing nuts on the grey driveshaft/pto cover were loose. The cover was jacked up as well. Finally the hollow bolt that runs from the hex fitting on the carb and runs a cable thru it to operate the oil pump was completely out. To top it all off the ski started taking on water so i am pretty sure the carbon ring is shot. Question is could this be symptoms of a bent drive shaft as well. i had to pull the motor earlier in the year to fix an oil leak and tighten the motor back up on the plate that rides on the motor mount. The motor would move about a 1/4 inch left to right in a twisting fashion. Could i have not gotten the motor straight? When pulling the motor i just took it out from the plate without removing the mounts.

Advice and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
What are you doing to run the pump?

You need to make sure there is no air in the pump. There is a bleed screw in the front of it. Open it, and let the oil flow a little. Then... start the engine, and hold the pump arm to "Full" while it's idling. You would see the oil pulsing in each line, about 1/8" every 2 seconds.

IF... your check valves are plugged... nothing will move.

Yes... a bent driveshaft will make a huge amount of vibration. Pull it out, and check it.
 
Alright...I can handle that with the pump on the XP.

Definitely going to pull the shaft to check run out. I've got a dial indicator, but can you set the shaft on jack stands to check? How about the play the motor had on the plate? If the shaft is straight how do you make sure it is straight on the plate?
 
Pulled the bleed screw (7 mm hex head). No oil dripped out. Can't see any air in lines. Then the rains came and the battery was dead so i did not get to idle and hold the oil pump wide open...we'll try again tonight hopefully.
 
started and let idle with the pump pulled wide open. No oil ever filled up in the lines. Pulled the lines and nothing dripped out. New pump time? Could something be wrong with the plate i screwed back down?
 
alright i believe I got the pump primed. Took the plate off and actually blew by mouth into the holding tank with bleed screw out until oil came out. Put it all back together and saw oil moving in the lines at idle with pump wide open. Still has air in the lines though. Normal?

On to the GSI. I'm going to pull the drive shaft this weekend, but would still be interested in if the block/engine is square on the plate it rides on. Any measurements that can be taken?
 
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