Just purchased...Previous owner used pre-mix. Can I go back to oil injection? Is there an air or fuel filter(s) to change?

[uraceulose]

New forum member here and loving this place!! Will look into the benefits of premium membership when I get home later this week.

20+ gallons is a lot to pre-mix over and over in my opinion. We just purchased a 1997 Speedster on Craiglist. It is my/our first boat and I'd like to maintain it from this point forward as much as possible.

The previous owner told me that he pre-mixed the fuel at 50:1 and just left the oil tank empty and didn't worry about the red light. I prefer to use the system the way it was intended if at all possible.

Is there anything I can change as far as filters or anything need to be "primed"?

I was thinking to just run the tank down real low on fuel then pour in a couple gallons of oil and fill up the tank with fresh gasoline. Might foul a set of plugs?

Is there anything else I'm missing? I was also going to look into the wear on the impeller ring and wanted to find out about fuel/air/oil filters? Where do I measure on the impeller wear ring?
Is there an air filter or fuel filter to change?

Thanks so much,

Donnie

 

[Dr Honda]

Well.... I hope the tank isn't totally empty. These rotax engine need oil in the rotary valve gears... and the oil tank feeds them.

I agree... it's almost impossible to premix the tank in that boat. And I would recommend making the oil injection work again. If the pump is there... and has been running dry... it's probably shot. You will need a new (or good/used) pump. Replace the oil filter, and the small oil injection lines. Bleed the system, and enjoy.


On you boat... there is probably a screen fuel filter. Just take it apart and clean it. There really isn't an air filter. It has a flame arrestor. The mesh needs cleaned once in a while. (A good degreaser and rinse in hot water)

Not sure what you are asking by "Measuring the wear ring".

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you so much Dr. Honda,

So I was able to find an oil pump on ebay last night and purchased it right away. Now I'd like to be able to get the boat out on the water this week to see how it runs on the lake. With the previous owner running pre mix in it for all these years, can I just grab a couple of quarts of pre mix oil and run it that way for one more tank? The previous owner said he ran synthetic oil only it in and when I went to the seadoo dealership today the parts rep handed me a gallon jug of the oil that you should be using in the oil injection tank...it says "okay to pre mix" but the ratio isn't on the side of the jug.
Also, I noticed that the oil for the tank is mineral oil but the previous owner said he ran synthetic?
I'm probably over thinking this but I just don't want to ruin our new family toy.

Another thing I was thinking is maybe just try and use the oil injection system since it's already low on gas and the tank is empty?

Would I be okay to use the tank with the injection oil and also put pre mix in it to be safe until my new oil pump gets here?

One more thing, the mechanic mentioned timing the oil pump as well as bleeding/purging the lines of residual oil...is the timing really necessary or can I just bleed them?

Thanks again,

Donnie

 

[Dr Honda]

Ummmm... lots of questions.... OK...

You don't want to use cheap oil. Or, more to the point, a TC-w3 oil. (normal outboard oil) These rotax engines will not live long on it. You need an API-tc oil. Since that boat has the 720 engines in it, you can use a mineral oil. The synth oils are just a little better.

There really isn't any "Timing" on the oil pumps. But there is a setting. (along with the bleeding) When they are hooked up... there is a mark on the arm. That mark will be aligned with a mark in the pump body when the throttle is at idle. (leans out the mix at low power to cut smoke)

I'm not sure why you would want to put oil in the oil tank at this point, since you will have to deal with that to hook up the new pump. (spilling oil all over is messy) I would however make sure there is a little oil in it, and the 2 hoses going to the center of the engines have oil down in them. (the center gees need an oil bath)

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you so much for helping to walk me through this.

I'll go grab some API-tc oil this evening to pre mix for now.

Please forgive my ignorance.

So on the "setting" of the pump, I don't need to worry about it? Just take the "arm" off the pump then prime the new one with a drill, then attach the "arm" to the new pump and bolt it up?

The reason I was thinking to put oil in the tank is to see if maybe it had some left in it that I wasn't aware of and maybe the oil injection system actually works?

I could maybe check after putting some oil in it and see if the injection system works before putting the new (used) pump in?

On the hoses in the center of of the engines...do you mean just put a little bit of oil in the tank and make sure that it gravity feeds down into the tube and runs through it to show that there isn't any debris or obstructions in the lines?

Have a great evening Tony and thank you,

Donnie

 

[uraceulose]

Okay so the pump I just bought seller is now saying that he cannot find the pump....I found one more that is for a seadoo sportster or challenger 657 or 720 the listing says. Would this one work? It’s from a 1995 speedster 657..

 

[uraceulose]

I went ahead and bought the one out of the 98 speedster..it’s worth the $35 to me to not take a chance and miss out on another one. If it doesn’t work I should be able to return it..

 

[Dr Honda]

Yes... the bigger hoses going to the center of the engine are just a gravity feed. In that section, there are a set of gears that spin the rotary valve. Just make sure there is some oil in them. It doesn't have to circulate... just need to wet the gears.

You do not need a drill to prime the system. Once the new pump is in place, and a new filter, and new small hoses are installed.... there is a bleed screw in the face of the pump. (it's small) Take it out, and let the oil from the tank flow. Once it comes out that screw hole, put the screw back in. But be careful. it's a small screw and you can break it. Just needs to be snug. Also, make sure you put the little fiber washer back on. it's what seals it.

Oh... since we are cleaning the system... Make sure the oil nipples at the manifold are clear... and the little check valves on the pump are also clear.

Once it's all back together and bled... verify that the marks on the pump are aligned with the throttle at idle. the pump arm should move with the throttle.


At that point... since you have "Pre mix" in the fuel tank... start the boat... and at idle.... reach down and hold the oil pump arm open. You will see the oil pulse back and forth, and up to the engine. (should take 10 secs or so) At that point... you are free to run straight gas in the tank.

Oh... also... don't forget to top off the oil tank.

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you so much. One more question for now, is the oil filter one that can be obtained at a sea-doo dealer?

Donnie

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep. Same filter on all the 2-strokes.

 

[shrug]

hey Dr Honda, sorry to revive an old thread...

im re-doing the oil lines (and filters of course) on my '95 speedster so i dont toast my freshly rebuilt carbs. just trying to see if anyone has a rough idea how many feet of line im going to need. also if anyone knows the ID of the lines, but im sure i could measure or find out somewhere.

ill also take any other tips you my have.