Jet Pump Oil Replacement

[Mgiffune]

I just replaced the jet pump oil for the first time on my two Seadoo's. This is probably going to be a stupid question that I already 'know' the answer to, but I'll ask anyway.

When I pulled the cone off, I noticed there was a red 'locktite' like buildup where the cone meets. I scraped it off and cleaned it up. I assumed this was regular old red loctite (yeah, I know what happens when you assume). So I coated it with loctite, and sealed it back up.

I see now it's supposed to be loctite 518, or Anaerobic Gasket Maker. Am I safe with the way I did it, or am I looking at tearing it all apart and re-doing it?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

it should be fine; if you are worried about it change it next fall.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

at first I read this like it was the oil pump on the engine! lol.

yea, it should be fine. I never used to use that stuff, but it's not that hard to get to. Its in a blue tube at the hardware store.

 

[Bills86e]

Your Shop Manual shows the leak-down test proceedure. If it passes, you are good to go. :cheers:

 

[Mgiffune]

Your Shop Manual shows the leak-down test proceedure. If it passes, you are good to go. :cheers:

I don't have the pump gauge tester to do the leak test. I was planing on making this part of winterizing, so it will be done next fall.

 

[DooWacka]

When you said you noticed the red and thought Loctite, did you replace it with red Loctite threadlocker, or blue?
As you now know the Loctite 242 blue (thread locker) goes on the cone bolts, and the 518 (gasket maker, which happens to be red) goes on the O-ring. As others have said, if you didn't use the 518 on the O-ring you will probably be OK. However, if you used red 271 Loctite thread locker on the O-ring that might be a problem. The high strength red 271 when on threads makes a bolt very difficult to remove, however since it could just be on the O-ring maybe it won't be to difficult to remove the cone. As long as it didn't get on the bolt threads. It usually takes heat to remove red 271 and if your cone is plastic, that could be a problem.

 

[Mgiffune]

Yeah, I used the red stuff, also on the bolts. I may have a problem. I was under the impression that the blue you use for things that needed more than yearly 'routine maintenance', and red was for something you'd want to remove yearly or less frequently.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I would pull those cone bolts one at a time and clean them off...those may break after it has time to really cure.

 

[Mgiffune]

Assuming they will come out, heat free.

 

[DooWacka]

If you have one of the brass cones, instead of plastic, it will be easier to apply the heat. Use a very small torch and keep the heat concentrated on the vanes of the pump housing that contain the cone bolts. You may be able to deactivate the 271 without melting the cone. The red 271 Loctite is considered "permanent" and if it hasn't completely set you need about 500F to deactivate it.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

If you are lucky enough to get the bolts out, I wonder how much of a "grip" the 271 has on the cone itself.
Maybe you should take the cone off anyway since the heat may have "damaged" the pump oil.

 

[Mgiffune]

Nope, it's the plastic cone. I'll try a soldering iron first. I guess worst case, I'm replacing the cones and O rings.

 

[Mgiffune]

I'm reading about this red loctite being 'forever'. Maybe I'm not coating the treads the way you're 'supposed' to be, but I pulled off a couple of the bolts I put the loctite on, specifically the 10mm's for the VTS and the 1/2 inch that hold the nozzle on. They were 'tight', and you could tell there was some grip to them more so than just the norm, but I was able to remove both fairly easily without much effort. Doesn't seem like a 'forever' thing to me at all.

 

[DooWacka]

You apparently got to the bolts in time, or maybe the 271 was old. Did it seem fully cured?
I have sheared bolts when I didn't know they had 271 thread locker. Then there is real difficulty in drilling out the bolt, because often bolt extractors (EZ out) don't even work. If done correctly with good 271, the bolts will shear more often than not, unless you use enough heat.

 

[Mgiffune]

This was four days ago. I can't imagine they would need more time to cure. I'm thinking I didn't coat the bolts as much as you 'should' had I wanted a permanent lock. I just let a real light coat run into the threads, and not 'dripping' with the stuff.

 

[Mgiffune]

Took apart both pumps today, not a problem with a single bolt. Used gasket maker on the cone, and all is good until next year. Maybe that stuff takes longer than a week, or temperatures higher than our 50 degree high lately, to fully cure.

 

[BMANN06]

At least the pumps cone bolts are stainless steel, (not our recycled crappy metals sent to china then turned into crappier weaker fastners) so that will help you break the bond.

Glad to hear you got em' off!!