IBR Gate Just Drops Down - Won't Stay in Up (Locked) Position - 2022 GTX 130 Pro

[jync]

I have a brand new 2022 GTX 130 Pro. I launched it off the trailer, squeezed the throttle to put it into Forward (showed on screen as in Forward), but it will only go in reverse. I got it back on the trailer and noticed the IBR gate is in the down position. I can move the gate back up with my hand, but then I can also move it back down with my hand -- or it just falls back down. In other words, it won't lock into forward position or any position. Nothing is stuck throughout the exterior of the IBR mechanism, and all the bolts related to the movement of the IBR gate are tight.

What would cause the gate IBR not to lock into position? Something with the linkage arm? Hopefully not the actuator? Only 0.4 hours on this, and it worked fine when last loading it on to the trailer.

Thoughts?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I am not an IBR expert, but you should not be able to move the IBR by hand. If you can the actuator arm is disconnected.

If you are not familiar or have good mechanical skill, I would look to take to the dealer

 

[Digdog]

The two bolts going from the gate to the actuator are probably loose , actuator is on the left side. The actuator itself should not move at all when not powered.

 

[jync]

The linkage arm is definitely connected to the gate. I have another of the same ski (which is working perfectly), and the setup looks identical. Decent mechanical skill, and the dealers take too long -- so I'm hoping someone else may have had a similar issue -- and it's an easy fix.

 

[jync]

The two bolts going from the gate to the actuator are probably loose , actuator is on the left side. The actuator itself should not move at all when not powered.

That was my first thought. They are tight as can be.

 

[ski-d00]

If the gate is moving up and down with your hand freely, most likely the threaded shaft on the control arm inside the rubber bellows has pulled off. I have seen this on a couple new ones where the factory did not thread the arm on far enough and it pulled off the last couple of threads. The fix was pretty simple where it just needed to get threaded on more.

 

[jync]

If the gate is moving up and down with your hand freely, most likely the threaded shaft on the control arm inside the rubber bellows has pulled off. I have seen this on a couple new ones where the factory did not thread the arm on far enough and it pulled off the last couple of threads. The fix was pretty simple where it just needed to get threaded on more.

Good call. I'll get the rubber bellows off and take a look. I'm not in front of it at the moment, so figure I'd ask -- do I have to do anything special to get that off to get to that shaft?

 

[ski-d00]

No, just regular tools. Just unbolt the arm from the linkage and then you will see it kind of just flop around with only the bellows holding it on. If you push it inward and start threading it you should feel it thread on. You might have to loosen/remove the oetiker clamp so that the arm can rotate. Thread it on all the way until it stops, then back it off until it aligns with the gate. You should calibrate using BUDS after this because your neutral position might be a little off but isn't really necessary since you can just use the neutral adjust position while riding it to get a perfect neutral.

 

[jync]

No, just regular tools. Just unbolt the arm from the linkage and then you will see it kind of just flop around with only the bellows holding it on. If you push it inward and start threading it you should feel it thread on. You might have to loosen/remove the oetiker clamp so that the arm can rotate. Thread it on all the way until it stops, then back it off until it aligns with the gate. You should calibrate using BUDS after this because your neutral position might be a little off but isn't really necessary since you can just use the neutral adjust position while riding it to get a perfect neutral.

Thanks a ton. Will try later today, and let y'all know!

 

[jync]

No, just regular tools. Just unbolt the arm from the linkage and then you will see it kind of just flop around with only the bellows holding it on. If you push it inward and start threading it you should feel it thread on. You might have to loosen/remove the oetiker clamp so that the arm can rotate. Thread it on all the way until it stops, then back it off until it aligns with the gate. You should calibrate using BUDS after this because your neutral position might be a little off but isn't really necessary since you can just use the neutral adjust position while riding it to get a perfect neutral.

This worked! Few added notes:

• I did have to loosen the oetiker clamp to get the arm to rotate freely.
• Additionally, so I could fit in my hand (decent size hands) to rotate the arm, I removed the steering gate.
• Once I threaded the arm, I couldn't back it off enough to get it to align with the gate hole the bolt has to go back through. So, I had to only reattach the steering nozzle on the opposite side of the arm, leaving enough wiggle room to get the arm reattached, then attached the 2nd side of the steering nozzle.

Thank you so much for leading me down the right path!

 

[retrooper]

Did you have to calibrate the module parameters for the actuator to the new (shorter) length of your now connected unit? For the correct stop / on both commands to Forward and Reverse gate positions?

 

[jync]

I did not. Runs perfectly.

 

[retrooper]

Glad you were able to fix it yourself. The oetiker type clamps are not designed to be loosened and the tight seal is necessary around the actuator arm to keep water from getting inside the rubber boot. Water inside the boot would be forced against the O-rings/seals and get into the actuator via the shaft that joins the threaded drive and degrade the lubricant and short out the electric motor. I recommend replacing the oetiker clamp if it has been loosened, and don't let anyone put a basic 'hose clamp' on that position since they can fail under the stress of high dynamic load (movement of the arm) compared to just holding a garden hose repair job or other static repair application.
Cheers on having a fun summer!!

 

[jync]

Glad you were able to fix it yourself. The oetiker type clamps are not designed to be loosened and the tight seal is necessary around the actuator arm to keep water from getting inside the rubber boot. Water inside the boot would be forced against the O-rings/seals and get into the actuator via the shaft that joins the threaded drive and degrade the lubricant and short out the electric motor. I recommend replacing the oetiker clamp if it has been loosened, and don't let anyone put a basic 'hose clamp' on that position since they can fail under the stress of high dynamic load (movement of the arm) compared to just holding a garden hose repair job or other static repair application.
Cheers on having a fun summer!!

Excellent point! Yes, I replaced it completely to be safe!

 

[retrooper]

I am in the process of replacing an IBR in one of my units and I have the BRP manual. I recalled you replacing the clamp and noticed in the manual that the Air chamber/bellows on the IBR unit in the hull has a function to expand/contract opposite of the rubber chamber/bellows (now watertight) on the gate actuator arm. The instructions are to Compress the Air Chamber/bellows IN the hull (attached by the short hose to the IBR unit and just laying around by the siphon/bilge hose) when I am clamping the outside rubber chamber on the actuator arm which would be in the extended position "down gate position and hence now Full of air. This will Allow the internal IBR air volume to have a watertight closed space (the Inside Air chamber/bellows tube) when the Outside arm retracts and squeezes the Outside flexible water proof chamber/bellows that has some air inside. Bursting either chamber is a bad thing; so I would recommend using the IBR override function to move the gate with the seat off and have a friend with a flashlight look for the two rubber bellows type units to not be over inflated as they expand and contract as designed due to the small amount of natural air volume that is trapped inside the internal area of the IBR mechanisms that move back and forth. Manual warns that not following these explicit instructions can lead to chamber/bellows failing and damaging the $700.00 IBR unit. Worth checking in my OCD opinion.