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HELP AGAIN! I think I found my cavitation and whistling noise problem (with pics)...

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Maybe, but I'm betting you will also need a new impeller shaft you won't be able to tell until you remove it from the pump.

You may find the impeller removal tool from a specialty tool supplier like Mac Tools, apparently the same tool is used to rebuild automobile transmissions, but it ain't gonna be cheap.

Please don't think I'm picking on you, but this is a perfect example of why you should use a new "O" ring and do a pressure test when you change your pump oil. You can build a pressure gauge yourself for probably under $10.00 or buy one from OSD Parts for around $30.00 you can also use the same gauge for testing the carb. pop off.

Lou
 
Minnetonka4me said:
Most likely the prop will not come off...when they burn up this bad they fuse themselves to the shaft.

Its not rebuildable...you will need a new unit. I have them available as well as prop tools. I would try to get that prop off first you never know...but Im calling it wont.

Let me know if I can help further.
Click to expand...

[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] I sent you a pm
 
mikidymac said:
The service manual lists the depth that the new bearings have to be installed.
Click to expand...

That's good to know...I'll go take a look for it. One of my family members works at a machine shop and he said he can have them remove any bearings, washers, etc. and put the new ones back on to the right depth calibration. I'm just hoping my impeller and shaft are still good...
 
I needed to use heat to remove my impeller. I tried the breaker bar, and I was moving my bench. A little heat broke the loctite bond.
 
SeaDooGood said:
That's good to know...I'll go take a look for it. One of my family members works at a machine shop and he said he can have them remove any bearings, washers, etc. and put the new ones back on to the right depth calibration. I'm just hoping my impeller and shaft are still good...
Click to expand...

they're not that expensive to replace... even for the whole unit.

Are these 140 pumps or 155's ???
 
Look at osd.com. they will rebuild your pump, and I think they also sell new. I have not had any service done by them, but I have purchased parts and I have no complaints.
 
[MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]

Update: I tried to get the impeller off the shaft using a vice and impeller tool with a breaker bar AND an impact gun but no luck. I plan on taking it to a machine shop tomorrow morning to have them look at it. Do you think they could just bang it out from the shaft side (keeping my housing) or would that mess anything up inside? Trying to keep the housing bc it seems to be in good shape. Where should I go from here. Doesn't seem to be too promising getting it off the shaft....maybe some heat would help?
 
I never had luck with an impact gun. Breaker bar with a 3' cheater pipe with long steady pressure.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
racerxxx said:
I never had luck with an impact gun. Breaker bar with a 3' cheater pipe with long steady pressure.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Counter clockwise right? I will try to add heat. Y'all think it may be fused since there was no cone oil and dried up?
 
The only thing left is to cut off the impeller. If it is stainless steel it will not be easy. Otherwise the pump housing is also shot.
 
That would be a question for the experts. I would not try giving up until something broke. It is going to cost some money for an impeller, and the same for other parts.

Heat the crap out of it, and then heat it some more. You need a long pipe to get it off.
 
tkarvelis said:
That would be a question for the experts. I would not try giving up until something broke. It is going to cost some money for an impeller, and the same for other parts.

Heat the crap out of it, and then heat it some more. You need a long pipe to get it off.
Click to expand...

I just sprayed some CRC Knock'Er Loose and I'm gonna let that sit overnight and then try the machien shop in the morning.
 
As I said they don't come off. Last one I had I used a 5ft cheater bar and it snapped the shaft off. I'm out of town till Tuesday so response time will be slow.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
Minnetonka4me said:
As I said they don't come off. Last one I had I used a 5ft cheater bar and it snapped the shaft off. I'm out of town till Tuesday so response time will be slow.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Is there any way to save the housing by cutting off the impeller or shaft if it is fused? Just trying to salvage what I can and the housing is in really good condition.
 
racerxxx said:
You'd have to cut the impeller down to the shaft, you can't cut the shaft since it's hardened.


Here's how I did it....kinda. I was only after one part.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?75910-How-to-remove-a-wear-ring-the-easy-way
Click to expand...
[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] In that thread it looks like you cut the pump housing. That's actually the part that I'm trying to save since it is in good shape. Its the impeller and shaft that I believe is fused together. So I was trying to figure out how I could get that out WITHOUT damaging the pump housing?
 
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