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Getting seadoo off trailer to a portable work stand

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I bought a used engine hoist off Craigslist for $50 looks like new. I then bought the straps to cradle the ski. I use it all the time to move my skis around from stands to trailer and so forth. One of the best $150 I ever spent!!!!
Before I used a come a long and would crank them off onto the stand while blocking the wheels of the stand and attaching the other end of the come along to my trailer hitch of my truck parked opposite the ski in the driveway.
 
Yeah, don't even think about backing your ungalvanized trailer into saltwater, you'll be sorry you did! On the bright side, you won't need a tarp or plywood for shielding it against the elements.

Another option in that category would be to use 3 foot wide corrugated galvanized steel panels like they use on carports of an appropriate length to cover the trailer, I cover stuff up with these all the time and these panels will last forever.
 
Yeah, don't even think about backing your ungalvanized trailer into saltwater, you'll be sorry you did! On the bright side, you won't need a tarp or plywood for shielding it against the elements.

Another option in that category would be to use 3 foot wide corrugated galvanized steel panels like they use on carports of an appropriate length to cover the trailer, I cover stuff up with these all the time and these panels will last forever.

build a BIGGGGER garage :) :)

Anyways has anyone else notice that Sportster's name is too long so you can't click on the arrow after his name to go to the last post of a thread. I think he needs to lose the 2 hyphens in his name :)
 
I just bought a 2 ton engine crane and built a wood dolly to stick my RXT 260 on over the winter. I haven't been able to find a reasonable deal on the straps the hook into the rub rail. I was thinking of getting a small engine leveller, and running two straps all the way around the hull. Alternatively, do you think I could run one strap all the way around the hull and the other strap through the two eyelets in the back of the RXT?

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I just bought a 2 ton engine crane and built a wood dolly to stick my RXT 260 on over the winter. I haven't been able to find a reasonable deal on the straps the hook into the rub rail. I was thinking of getting a small engine leveller, and running two straps all the way around the hull. Alternatively, do you think I could run one strap all the way around the hull and the other strap through the two eyelets in the back of the RXT?

If you want to use a sling at the bow and the stern just put something between the straps so that the straps don't slide towards the center of the hull and the ski tips and falls. Maybe 2x4's with a V-notch and let the 2x4 sit on the hull so it does not slip and allow the straps to slide.
 
get some transom hooks -- google transom hooks, i think there is a video of them on you tube .... they guy who sells them is a ....... though
 
I have some lifting straps, you think those three points (two stern eyes and bow eye) will be sufficient to lift the RXT? Or would I be better going around the hull with the straps to cradle the boat?

I use the bow and stern eyes to lift boats with my forklift and my 30ft tall electric hoist all the time(setting on trailer and bottom cleaning hauled boats, never had one pull out. I guess they're plenty strong enough. The rear ones of your ski are made to pull a skier with, aren't they? And you can tow your ski on the water by using the front eye, right?

To be clear, I' not talking about the docking cleats founds on the decks of boats, I'm talking about the tow eyes on the front and rear. Two eyes on the transom on the bow eye. I use these to lift boats all the time. Skis, I use the rub rail hooks just b/c it's faster to rig and I have a set.

You did good on the roll around stand, I use furniture dollies all the time to set pontoon boats on and roll them around the warehouse.
 
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I use the bow and stern eyes to lift boats with my forklift and my 30ft tall electric hoist all the time(setting on trailer and bottom cleaning hauled boats, never had one pull out. I guess they're plenty strong enough. The rear ones of your ski are made to pull a skier with, aren't they? And you can tow your ski on the water by using the front eye, right?

To be clear, I' not talking about the docking cleats founds on the decks of boats, I'm talking about the tow eyes on the front and rear. Two eyes on the transom on the bow eye. I use these to lift boats all the time. Skis, I use the rub rail hooks just b/c it's faster to rig and I have a set.

You did good on the roll around stand, I use furniture dollies all the time to set pontoon boats on and roll them around the warehouse.

Awesome. The rear ones are meant for tying the seadoo with ratchet straps to the trailer. I think they should be strong enough to lift from.

I'll try to get a set of rub rail hooks next time I'm in the USA. Up here in Canada, I'm having trouble finding a set rated to lift my 3 seater seadoos (2010 RXT 260 and 2009 GTX 155).

Thanks for the compliment on the stand. I got a great deal on the furniture dollies (1000lb rated for $19)... 4" casters were $14.99 each!
 
I winterized my Seadoos this weekend, and was able to lift them off the trailer and onto the homemade dollies without any issue. I ran a ratchet strap through the two eyes at the rear, and another ratchet strap around the hull near the center.

2013-09-29 11.48.32.jpg
 
Sportster, do you work? Haha damn I've never seen someone reply to as many threads as much as you. Haha you must be retired or live and breathe Seadoo forum
 
Sportster, do you work? Haha damn I've never seen someone reply to as many threads as much as you. Haha you must be retired or live and breathe Seadoo forum

I'm winterizing boats now mainly, nobody wants to ride! ........ Take occasional break and see if someone wants help. :)

Here are the Mastercraft boat lifting instructions, unfortunately they don't mention the bow eye... I run a strap through the eye and straight up both sides of the bow:
 

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update: after I bought a 2nd ski, a heavy azz 4 stroke I had a hell of a time using my winch/stand to slide both ski's over, had to put the both stands back to back and slide it over the first stand, yank it the rest of the way, then move it, and slide ski#2 onto the winch/stand, so I contacted suke about his wall mount setup... works like a charm !!! my 600 pd ski's won't budge with me just pulling, i'm too small for that trick ! The winch process is slow (especially since I'm using a 19mm socket, the crank was too long) but it works !!!!

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update: after I bought a 2nd ski, a heavy azz 4 stroke I had a hell of a time using my winch/stand to slide both ski's over, had to put the both stands back to back and slide it over the first stand, yank it the rest of the way, then move it, and slide ski#2 onto the winch/stand, so I contacted suke about his wall mount setup... works like a charm !!! my 600 pd ski's won't budge with me just pulling, i'm too small for that trick ! The winch process is slow (especially since I'm using a 19mm socket, the crank was too long) but it works !!!!

Tim how about using a breaker bar to fit the socket. It won't ratchet, but might be stronger than the ratchet wrench handle. And with a longer handle it may be easier too.

So a long board between 3 studs or 2???? then lag bolt another board to the first then the winch onto that.
Can it be built out to allow more room for the winch crank handle?
 
Tim how about using a breaker bar to fit the socket. It won't ratchet, but might be stronger than the ratchet wrench handle. And with a longer handle it may be easier too.

So a long board between 3 studs or 2???? then lag bolt another board to the first then the winch onto that.
Can it be built out to allow more room for the winch crank handle?
I did mine across 3 studs. Then lag bolted them together and the winch I used larger lag bolts that would go through both boards and the stud behind. :-)

I thought about the impact idea but really like the slow control I have with the wrench.
 
correct, long board for 3 studs, used 3" lag bolts, I think only 6 of them, then 6 more 3" holding board #2 into board #1. I drilled in a couple of extra 3 1/2" wood screws as well just because I was out of lags, and had them laying around.

it had to be placed somewhat centrally so it would line up straight with the trailer when I backed it in, and I placed it just right so that I could use it on either side of my double trailer, if you line it up correctly its perfect.

honestly the only time the ratchet is difficult is maybe the first 6-8 inches, then its fairly easy since gravity starts to work in your favor, stop a couple of times to make sure the stand is in the right spot, then we're good to go.

I'm thinking of using some of that liquid bunk on the last 18" of the trailer bunks to make that part even easier, I don't want to use it all the way up the bunks, since I actually prefer that there's a little grab on the trailer, I still prefer to not have to worry about the ski sliding off the trailer on the way up/down the ramp, and we have some fairly steep ones around here.

bottom line, for about $3 worth of lag bolts, and some old bunk wood that I had laying around, it worked perfectly.

last thing, I converted both my single (then sold it) and my double to 2X6 bunks instead of 2x4, and I love it, really easy to walk down the bunks and the walk board now, quite a trick with 2x4's.
 
Tim how about using a breaker bar to fit the socket. It won't ratchet, but might be stronger than the ratchet wrench handle. And with a longer handle it may be easier too.

So a long board between 3 studs or 2???? then lag bolt another board to the first then the winch onto that.
Can it be built out to allow more room for the winch crank handle?

Tim,

I did consider using a 4x4 mounted to the long board to allow room for the winch, but after contacting suke and asking how he solved that problem of having enough room for the crank, "ok fella, how the heck do you winch it down?" and he told me about the 19mm socket and that's all I needed. I might use one of my big 1/2 inch socket wrenches with an adapter to give me a little more leverage but its only going to be a minimal improvement, its not like its unusable with the small socket, but it might be a tad easier if I had a longer wrench.

piggybacking on jammin's post, has anybody else used a plastic runner like on the link? ,

or silicone spray / liquid bunk to lubricate their bunk boards to make it easier to slide things around and how did you like it ?


I'm considering either a) Lubricant on last 18", or b) plastic runner on last 18" to make things just a little easier, I don't want to do the entire bunk. (my buddy did that on his trailer the whole length, and his ski actually starts to slide off the trailer while still in the water so on a steeper ramp, he's left the ski running, at idle, while he climbs off and attaches the winch, otherwise when he gets off the ski to go attach the winch it tends to slide back down, (it was comical the first time I saw it do that lol) I think that problem can be avoided if I just do a small portion and let friction work in my favor holding the ski in place.

I've never used runners or lubricant so i'm a little leery of making that change.
 
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Tim,

I did consider using a 4x4 mounted to the long board to allow room for the winch, but after contacting suke and asking how he solved that problem of having enough room for the crank, "ok fella, how the heck do you winch it down?" and he told me about the 19mm socket and that's all I needed.

piggybacking on an earlier post I made, has anybody else used a plastic runner, or silicone spray / liquid bunk to lubricate their bunk boards to make it easier to slide things around and how did you like it ?

I'm considering either a) Lubricant on last 18", or b) plastic runner on last 18" to make things just a little easier, I don't want to do the entire bunk. (my buddy did that on his trailer the whole length, and his ski actually starts to slide off the trailer while still in the water so on a steeper ramp, he's left the ski running, at idle, while he climbs off and attaches the winch, otherwise when he gets off the ski to go attach the winch it tends to slide back down, (it was comical the first time I saw it do that lol) I think that problem can be avoided if I just do a small portion and let friction work in my favor holding the ski in place.

I've never used runners or lubricant so i'm a little leery of making that change.

I'm surprised you didn't mount a chain fall or an electric winch to your trusses....that's something I'd do without the wifey knowing til it's up and operational...
 
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