fuel baffle fix - 951

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SabrToothSqrl

SabrToothSqrl

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What happened to that fuel baffle fix thread?

I'm looking at new one for $140 + shipping. What was his price?

I'm always for fixing stuff myself, but the idea of an open electrical system in my fuel tank... isn't up for debate

I want a new one.

Did his fix make a new one or was it just plastic glued shut?

thanks.
 
I believe he installed a new diode or fuse into it.
Is that the one you want?

wasn't parts custom or something similar to that name...
 
Sabr, you are the expert here....How easy/hard is it to get the fuel baffle out of a 99 GSX Limited?
I'll appreciate any tips that you can pass along.
Tim
 
Someone posted that you could pull the tank forward enough if you took the ebox mount out...I have always pulled it through the hole where the steering goes.

Sabr Ill do it cheaper than that guy if you need help.
 
I have done it both ways, through the storage compartment area and through the steering hole. I find the steering assembly hole to work the best. It is a bit more wrench turning but alot less frustrating, especially if you don't have a helper.

You really got to get the tank propped up far to get the baffle through the storage compartment hole.
 
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kicker said:
I have dont it both ways, through the storage compartment area and through the steering hole. I find the steering assembly hole to work the best. It is a bit more wrench turning but alot less frustrating, especially if you don't have a helper.

You really got to get the tank propped up far to get the baffle through the storage compartment hole.
Click to expand...

I guess I'll look in my SD manual to see what needs to be removed to get to the fuel Baffle thru the steering hole.
 
Really it is just the 4 bolts that go through the deck and hold the column there, and then the 1 bolt that goes through the end of the steering cable, that will release the cable from the column.
At that point you will be able to move the handle bars and everything attach out of the hole and to the side. The only thing limiting you from removing it all together is the wires at that point, but you will be able to put it to the side enough to get the baffle through.

Before you put it back together it is a good time to put some grease on the moving steering parts.
 
Remove the steering column bolts and steering bolt. Pull the tank forward. Use the hole for the steering system. You can just flip the steering forward 180 degrees.

Luckily I have not had to do this. The GSX I bought had it done. Not sure if the fuel sensor works on it either.

Ebox? The MPEM sits up front on the GSX.

But, also luckily I have a 6" hole in my ski right above the baffle. Where a 6.5" marine speaker sits.

OSD parts has them for $150 minus 10% coupon. What do you have?

For a $100 difference. I'll buy new. The thought of a plastic solder job sloshing around inside 15 gallons of gasoline... Not my idea of a good time.
 
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SabrToothSqrl said:
Remove the steering column bolts and steering bolt. Pull the tank forward. Use the hole for the steering system. You can just flip the steering forward 180 degrees.

Luckily I have not had to do this. The GSX I bought had it done. Not sure if the fuel sensor works on it either.

Ebox? The MPEM sits up front on the GSX.

But, also luckily I have a 6" hole in my ski right above the baffle. Where a 6.5" marine speaker sits.

OSD parts has them for $150 minus 10% coupon. What do you have?

For a $100 difference. I'll buy new. The thought of a plastic solder job sloshing around inside 15 gallons of gasoline... Not my idea of a good time.
Click to expand...

The plastic soldier is only to weld the piece of the housing that you cut off back on the housing. The circuit board that is in the baffle is all open soldier joints already. The fuse that blows is put in place with soldier, so to remove it you heat up the soldier to soften it and pull the fuse out, then lay a new bead of soldier in their to complete the circuit again.

Dont take my word for it, let an expert chime in. Put it this way if you are right and it is not safe, I will be pulling 4 baffles out before spring.
There was an explanation on this that I read and cant find it now, but it had something to do with it works on the resistance and the fuse that is in there had no real purpose cause the circuit is protected elsewhere.
Before you spend the money on it, lets get some more info.

458.jpg
 
kicker said:
The plastic soldier is only to weld the piece of the housing that you cut off back on the housing. The circuit board that is in the baffle is all open soldier joints already. The fuse that blows is put in place with soldier, so to remove it you heat up the soldier to soften it and pull the fuse out, then lay a new bead of soldier in their to complete the circuit again.

Don't take my word for it, let an expert chime in. Put it this way if you are right and it is not safe, I will be pulling 4 baffles out before spring.
There was an explanation on this that I read and cant find it now, but it had something to do with it works on the resistance and the fuse that is in there had no real purpose cause the circuit is protected elsewhere.
Before you spend the money on it, lets get some more info.
Click to expand...

With all these plastic soldiers around it reminds me of being 8 yrs old again and playing GIJoe.......(sorry but couldn't resist....:) ...)
 
Well I guess I could cut open my old one.

But it seems to me that gasoline does not get to that cavity.

Cutting it open, then plastic coating it backup, just seems like a really, really bad idea to save the price of 2 tanks of gas.

If gas or gas vapor gets in there and it powers up.... And it's inside of 15 gallons of fuel.... Under my crotch...?

Just sayin'
 
The baffle is full of fuel inside all the time. The fuel gets in through the bottom and if the tank is full the baffle will be full inside as well, that is how the fuel float for your gauge works. There is even a hole on the top of the baffle so that when the fuel is sloshing around the air that is in the float can go out the top to let the fuel in the bottom.

If you look in the the little hole you will be able to see the electronics.

460.jpg
 
yes sir, its not a great pic but you can see the hole at the top by looking through the bottom.

All the horizontal lines you see is where the magnet from your fuel float passes by and gives the reading on the gauge, it one going towards the top gives more resistance on the meter.

.
462.jpg
 
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It just sends ohms/resistance to the gauge there really isnt any power running thru those wires.

I have been putting in a .25 amp fuse in a water tight fuse holder externally just in case on customer machines for liability reasons, but I really feel like its not possible.
 
If it gets warmer, or I get really, really bored, I may fix this on my own. Since it appears that the factory setup is exposed to gasoline anyway, sealing the side up "gas tight" isn't as relevant as I thought. I will take it apart, and if I feel I can pull it off, do it, else I'll just buy a new one.

Thanks for the info!
 
I just fixed the baffles in both of my seadoo gs's..one was a bad float and the other I had to cut into and desolder that fuse. I just did as that one post referenced and replaced the fuse with a solder joint. Placed the plastic baffle piece back on and used a soldering iron and zip ties to melt back into place....works great!
 
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