Fluid only coming out of 1 cylinder?

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6.2CDoo

6.2CDoo

Member

Put fresh gas and oil in my GSX that had been sitting for about 6 years. Sprayed a little carb cleaner to light it off, but it never ran. Pulled plugs again to check spark (pulled them to add oil to cylinder) and when I cranked it, fluid only sprayed out of one cylinder. What could this mean? Surely not low compression on that cylinder, right? Fluid seemed to be a watery fuel/oil mix, which was interesting. Has good spark, but the cylinder with the fluid spraying out had a wet plug and the other cylinder was dry. Tried a few more times and pulled plugs again, and then both plugs were wet, but still fluid only sprayed from one cylinder. Thoughts? Previous owner rebuilt carbs and said both needed to be synchronized. Could that also play into it? Carb spraying fluid is too high idle set or carb not spraying fluid is too low?
 
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The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Thread
It should start at least for a few seconds with mixed fuel in the plug holes if you have compression and spark. I would start by checking compression just to cross that off the list of possibilities, you say it has good spark, be sure not to roll the engine over without the plugs being grounded. I think you may end up needing to rebuild the carbs again just because you don’t know what kit the PO used, could have been an aftermarket rebuild kit which never seems to work properly. You could test to see if the needle and or seat is leaking first, test the diaphragm on the fuel pump to see if it holds 4 pounds. I’m gonna guess that the needle and seat is leaking.Also don’t know how thoroughly the PO cleaned them, if it was sitting for 6 years and he tried a quick cleaning with a cheap carb kit to get it running that didn’t work so he unloaded it cheap because he didn’t know where to look next?
 
I would also just double check that the fuel lines are routed correctly and that the return and feed line wasn’t mixed up
 
I actually got it to run for a second after that post. Ran pretty good for about 3 sec and then cut off. I’ll try with a fresh battery later because I killed the little 4wheeler battery trying to get that thing running.
 
Hi, I know this has been discussed numerous times but if you're shooting water/fuel mix out of a plug hole, ESPECIALLY after sitting for six years, I would suspect sworn or shrunken crank seal. Search "crankshaft seal" and you'll find many discussions and solutions, including oil sump bypass, proper seal makes, re-conditioning, oil types, etc...
 
If the crank seal was bad, wouldn’t both cylinders have the watery mix? Plus, where’s the water coming from? I didn’t have any water hooked up. Carbs have been sealed off since it was put up.
 
6.2CDoo said:
If the crank seal was bad, wouldn’t both cylinders have the watery mix? Plus, where’s the water coming from? I didn’t have any water hooked up. Carbs have been sealed off since it was put up.
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If one of the inner crank seals that separates the rotary valve cavity from the rest of the crank then you would have oil shooting out the plug holes. It would only be one plug hole unless both seals were leaking
 
It’s not really oil though. It seems more of a mix of watery fuel. Where is the fuel water separator? I’ll check that next.
 
6.2CDoo said:
It’s not really oil though. It seems more of a mix of watery fuel. Where is the fuel water separator? I’ll check that next.
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I just can’t remember for sure where it is on the GSX, but if you follow the fuel line from the selector valve you will come to it
 
burtshaver2021 said:
If one of the inner crank seals that separates the rotary valve cavity from the rest of the crank then you would have oil shooting out the plug holes. It would only be one plug hole unless both seals were leaking
Click to expand...
Also, assuming that changing the crank seal requires pulling the engine and splitting the case?
 
You can a fuel
Line from a container of mixed fuel
to the carb inlet to eliminate the fuel valve and fuel filter just for testing purposes
 
6.2CDoo said:
Also, assuming that changing the crank seal requires pulling the engine and splitting the case?
Click to expand...
The inner seals can only be changed by having your crank rebuilt, most people who have a leaking inner seal just instal a shut off valve in the line to the rotary valve but I don’t think that is your problem, if you do indeed have good compression and spark and it ran for 3 seconds I’m going to guess that it needs to carbs rebuilt with genuine Mikuni parts, I think the fuel blowing out you plug hole is due to a leaking needle or seat o ring. They may not have been changed by the PO, trust very little what people tell you, people cheap out all the time with aftermarket carb kits
 
The mag side crank seal is usually the culprit, and the oil-watery-fuel mix you see may be from six years of gravity seepage from the upper motor and exhaust, and then settling in the rotary valve sump (there is no flow of oil here just a static amount fed through the bottom oil tank line), improper storage or even simple condensation again into the rotary valve chamber. Owners usually get an oil hydrolock in cylinder one after sitting in storage because of seal shrinkage and then a compression vacuum "pull" of oil past the front seal into the front cylinder. Truth is: seals wear from wear, abuse, poor oil, and improper storage setup. I've brought seals back to life, but only if minimally shrunk, by using Seadoo Etech oil, good fuel, and regular use, always worth a try. But it might require a teardown. search hydrolock
 
Oh, and I fully agree with burtshaver2021 that fuel and carb problems may be the culprit also, just adding my thoughts from past experience.
 
Okay I’m not getting any more watery oil I don’t think. But no fuel is getting to the carbs. I can blow through the lines so I don’t think it’s clogged. Fuel pump not working?
 
6.2CDoo said:
Actually cancelled the order because it wasn’t a Mikuni kit. Found a mikuni one on Amazon for $100
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Don’t do it, I suggest cancelling that order too, get it from OSD Marine website is osdparts.com. The back to OEM kit for 169.00. Comes wit je new needle and seat, I would order the new needle lever and pin for an additional 7.00.
 
It might only be 159.99, I’m not sure what the one you ordered has but this one has everything and it’s definitely Mikuni and they work. The ones on Amazon sometimes say they are Mikuni and there not. They have everything, o rings for the hi and low screws, new screws, Mylar discs, all the o rings and gaskets, diaphragms.
 
So I could just order the $100 off Amazon and the needle and seat for $7 from that other site? Sorry I sound kinda dumb. Never messed with Jetskis much before now, and this is my first 2stroke after my 4stroke Kawasaki.
 
The 7.00 is for the lever that lifts the needle, it’s an option on the OSD site, I would just order it as well then it’s all new and right
 
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