EVERYONE read please...

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speedster4us

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This is just to inform everyone to check to make sure there is the correct required amount of oil in the cone, for the impeller shaft and bearings. I went ahead last night and removed everything on the Port Side to replace the wear ring, and inspect make sure everything is OK. (which it was, and also repacked bearings). Reinstalled everything. I then switched to the Starboard Side, went ahead and removed the water lines, nozzle, F,N,R gate and then pump. After removing the cone (which was all melted inside) all the needle bearings and other items, just fell out. The impeller shaft got so hot it burned the metal, and welded the needle bearings to the inside of the pump assembly. After messing around on the press for about 50min. I was finally able to remove the bearings without any damage to the pump assembly. So I went ahead and ordered a new impeller shaft and cone. I was already doing a rebuild on the pump due to alot of noise it was making. So this is a heads up for you guy's out there to keep up the maintenance on your toys. I believe what happened was the impeller shaft collar broke, which then the pump oil emptied out and water came in flushed out the bearings,and then locked them up. Also do any of you guys know what the 2 o-rings go to in the pump rebuild kit. I am not sure where they go_One is smaller then a dime and the other is smaller then a quarter.
 

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On 1995

There are o-rings in the water passages where the pump assembly mates to the thru hull assembly. You have to hold them with Vaseline while you assemble the nozzle stuff
 
Wow - that is an important picture so share. Pump oil is ridiculously expensive - and paying someone to do it at $100/hr is also tough to stomach.

But definitely an important visual aid that illustrates why pump oil maintenance is so critical!
 
Forgive me the newb, the pump runs off oil other than the huge oil tank the motor runs from?

If that is the case, anyone have a visual "how-to" on checking pump oil?
 
It is in your shop manual if you want to take the time... here is from the '97 manual:

First you have to remove the venturi:
1. Detach adjuster of steering cable from nozzle (required only if removal is for RH side of twin-pump models).
2. Detach ball joint of VTS from trim ring (Challenger only).
3. Detach ball joint of shifter cable from reverse gate (required only if removal is for RH side of twinpump models).
4. Remove speedometer sensor (if necessary) from ride shoe.
5. Detach steering link rod from nozzle (twin-pump models only).
6. Detach reverse gate link rod from RH reverse gate (required even if you are working on LH side on twin-pump models only).
7. Remove reverse gate support (with gate), venturi and nozzle assembly from impeller housing.
NOTE: If you are removing parts on LH side, the reverse gate link rod may be kept with the reverse gate.

At this point you should see the cone, the fill hole is towards the top of one side of the cone (see attached image). Pull out the plug (looks like an allen key).

Check oil level, it should be at bottom of hole threads. If oil level is low, check impeller shaft housing for leaks. A pressure test must be performed.

To check oil condition, insert a wire through the opening then withdraw. A whitish oil indicates water contamination.
This may involve defective impeller shaft seal and/or O-ring of housing cover. Jet pump unit should be overhauled to replace seal.
If everything is correct, apply Loctite PST 592 on plug and reinstall it on cover. Reinstall removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

If the level is low, you should really find out why, there's probably a seal leaking somewhere... but in any case, here's the suggested lubricant: Use SEA-DOO JET PUMP SYNTHETIC OIL (P/N 293 600 011) only.
 

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JPX,

I ended up picking up some 75w90 Synthetic gear lube, and a quart was only $8.95 from Auto Zone. And for others, the cone should take about 3oz. of oil..
 
Happened to my 04 Sportster

Wow - that is an important picture so share. Pump oil is ridiculously expensive - and paying someone to do it at $100/hr is also tough to stomach.

But definitely an important visual aid that illustrates why pump oil maintenance is so critical!

For a newbie who didn't know any better, the dealer was "kind" enough to fix this last year for a measely $400. I guess I got a bargain at $70/hour labor.

Do as they say on here - check the oil. When this let go, my boat was running great pulling a wakeboard and 10 minutes later we limped off the lake with a nasty noise coming from the pump.
 
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