1996 seadoo sportster 717 cavitation

[Im610frank]

Hello, I have a 1996 sea doo sportster 717. Occasionally when going into throttle it will cavitate. If I smack it WOT it'll just cavitate/redline motor right away. New wear ring, impeller has some small little nics in it nothing huge. After easing into the throttle and building speed it rides great. While on plane and making a hard turn it loses all propulsion and starts to cavitate. I replaced the bearing with a one piece with grease tit on it. After doing some more research recently I find there is something called a carbon seal. Can anyone tell me if I have the wrong bearing in my boat? I also found I am supposed to have a little rubber tit on each end of my driveshaft which I know I don't. I attached 2 pics of the 2 different style bearings that I have found. TIA

 

[wrench2ride]

your sportster should have the carbon seal set up in your second pic, the older set up was with the bearing and grease fitting and around 1996 they started using the carbon seal on more units. if the bearing carrier is sealing on the shaft it will likely still work but you have to remember to keep greasing it, the carbon seal set up was more maintenance free and was very reliable.
definitely put the rubber dampeners on your driveshaft, make sure there isn't one stuck in the flywheel on the engine, without the dampeners the driveshaft can move back and forth and start slipping in the splines
you could have a leak between the pump and ride shoe/ pump support or between the pump support/ride shoe and the hull.
you pretty well have to remove the pump support/ride shoe to see if its leaking, you can look around the edges where it meets the hull and see if you can see any sealant hanging out like it blew out that would be about the only indicator your going to see.
if you remove it be carful you don't break it, you can't get them anymore. slow steady pressure to rip the sealant apart.

 

[Im610frank]

your sportster should have the carbon seal set up in your second pic, the older set up was with the bearing and grease fitting and around 1996 they started using the carbon seal on more units. if the bearing carrier is sealing on the shaft it will likely still work but you have to remember to keep greasing it, the carbon seal set up was more maintenance free and was very reliable.
definitely put the rubber dampeners on your driveshaft, make sure there isn't one stuck in the flywheel on the engine, without the dampeners the driveshaft can move back and forth and start slipping in the splines
you could have a leak between the pump and ride shoe/ pump support or between the pump support/ride shoe and the hull.
you pretty well have to remove the pump support/ride shoe to see if its leaking, you can look around the edges where it meets the hull and see if you can see any sealant hanging out like it blew out that would be about the only indicator your going to see.
if you remove it be carful you don't break it, you can't get them anymore. slow steady pressure to rip the sealant apart.

Thanks for the response. I personally have never touched the ride plate on the boat. Doesn’t mean it isn’t leaking but I do know I had removed the jet pump to replaced the wear ring and am curious if maybe it isn’t sealed properly. What is your best advice for sealing the pump to the other assembly?
Also how hard is it swap out the needle bearing assembly for the carbon ring assembly? Thank you

 

[Im610frank]

Here is a couple of pics of the jet pump assembly on my 1996 Sea-Doo sportster. I noticed I’m missing a bolt and nut that holds that nose cone to the pump. Any idea where I could get one from? Thanks

 

[wrench2ride]

I usually seal the jet pump to the pump support with right stuff
You need to pull the drive out and make sure you have the groove in your driveshaft for the circlip to hold the stainless ring against the carbon seal which it should if it’s the original shaft
I’m not sure which missing bolt your referring to, but hardware you’ll have to source out somewhere, most of that stuff you can’t buy from a dealer unless they happen to have it in stock which is unlikely in most cases

 

[Im610frank]

I usually seal the jet pump to the pump support with right stuff
You need to pull the drive out and make sure you have the groove in your driveshaft for the circlip to hold the stainless ring against the carbon seal which it should if it’s the original shaft
I’m not sure which missing bolt your referring to, but hardware you’ll have to source out somewhere, most of that stuff you can’t buy from a dealer unless they happen to have it in stock which is unlikely in most cases

I am missing the bolt and square nut that holds the nose cone to the pump. Top right of pump. Do you recommend staying away from the neoprene gasket that comes with a wear ring replacement kit? I believe that is what I used last time.
Also if I pull the ride plate should I use the same stuff to seal it? Thanks

 

[wrench2ride]

Oh the plastic housing and nut? Yes they are still available PN. 269501943 They are about $9 CDN
I don’t use the neoprene seal, I just use right stuff on the pump, same thing for the ride shoe

 

[Im610frank]

Oh the plastic housing and nut? Yes they are still available PN. 269501943 They are about $9 CDN
I don’t use the neoprene seal, I just use right stuff on the pump, same thing for the ride shoe

Ok I’ll have to see if I can find one online. And I’ll give that stuff a shot when I get around to pulling it.
I also noticed on doing more research on the back side of the impeller where the drive drive shaft goes in there is a rubber boot/ bushing. If I remember correctly mine doesn’t have that either. Is that something needed aswell? Could that potentially cause a problem?

 

[wrench2ride]

There is a rubber boot that goes on the front side of the impeller that the driveshaft goes through, with it missing it isn’t going to make a difference to your cavitation issue but it may create some ventilation in the jet stream, over time it may erode the impeller and your Venturi if it’s an aluminum one, when water passes over a rough surface and it can pick up some turbulence, that will cause the water to boil. If it’s bad enough for a long enough period it will erode holes right through an impeller or through your Venturi

 

[Im610frank]

There is a rubber boot that goes on the front side of the impeller that the driveshaft goes through, with it missing it isn’t going to make a difference to your cavitation issue but it may create some ventilation in the jet stream, over time it may erode the impeller and your Venturi if it’s an aluminum one, when water passes over a rough surface and it can pick up some turbulence, that will cause the water to boil. If it’s bad enough for a long enough period it will erode holes right through an impeller or through your Venturi

Ok so if Im going in there I should try and locate something to fit it and put it in place to prevent further damage. Is that a standard part?

 

[wrench2ride]

Yes if your going in there anyways, there are two parts to the boot, 271000516 rubber boot and 271000517 outer ring, both are about $9 cdn And both are still available

 

[Im610frank]

Yes if your going in there anyways, there are two parts to the boot, 271000516 rubber boot and 271000517 outer ring, both are about $9 cdn And both are still available

ok thanks ill get it all ordered up for when it gets a little warmer out. The more I find out about this boat im curious if the impeller is the exact pitch designed from factory lol

 

[wrench2ride]

Usually there is a part number on the impeller that should verify that