DESS, Continuous Beep???

[LouDoo]

Right now I'm thinking it's the MPEM, when I get a chance I'll go get my 96XP it's very similar to the 96GSX and do some comparative measurements. I also may have a short to ground, as I'm getting a resistance reading from the tan wire from the temp. sensor to the MPEM, but this could also be inside the MPEM. I'll check it out.

Also I haven't checked to see if the negative side of the buzzer goes to ground.

BTW what makes this even more confusing is the temp LED is not lit. I'm thinking just disconnect the buzzer and forget it. I have lights or gauges for all the functions anyway just won't have the buzzer.

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

mine did the exact same thing , started sometime in october, went thru pretty much all the same gremlin chasing and ended up turning off the dam buzzer. Its a PITA when I don't get that familiar double beep, but oh well, i didn't want to waste the time/trouble messing with a perfectly good replacement mpem just to make a buzzer go off.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Def just take the beeper out...not worth buying a MPEM over.

Or maybe a toggle switch?? LOL Better check compression one more time though first just in case.

 

[LouDoo]

After spending the better part of the day screwing around with this, I'm pretty much at the same point. I actually have a brand new in the box MPEM, but I really don't want to go to the time, expense and trouble of having a lanyard programmed to the new MPEM. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one to have this problem.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

Lou,
After the input from Tater and Tony (hey that sounds lile a radio morning show team) explaining how the circuit works, I don't think the problem is the MPEM. I think it is in the temp circuit.

Here is my logic based on how I now think the circuit works.
Purple/Tan wire from buzzer ties to Purple wire to the MPEM
Purple/Black wire from buzzer ties to the Tan wire from the temp sensor and Tan wire to the MPEM

So Purple wire from MPEM is the hot wire (continuous hot). Tan wire is the ground.
When working properly, the circuit is completed when the ground is made by the temp sensor closing OR from the MPEM for some other signal such as the 2 beep when you put the lanyard on.

If I understood post #11, you said you disconnected the Tan wire at the MPEM and the buzzer still buzzed. That rules out the MPEM and a short on any other circuit (unless there are actually 2 problems, a short in the temp circuit AND a problem with the MPEM).

If you first disconnect the TAN from the MPEM and the buzzer still sounds, Then if you disconnect the lead (Tan) from the sensor and the buzzer stops, then it's a bad sensor. If it still buzzes then there is a short in either the TAN or Purple/Tan wire.

make sense?

 

[Dr Honda]

Def just take the beeper out...not worth buying a MPEM over.

Or maybe a toggle switch?? LOL Better check compression one more time though first just in case.

I'm with Minnetonka on this one. Why go thought the haste and expense. BUT... I would go a little different rout. I would simply lift the TAN wire from the MPEM. This will still let your buzzer work as an over-temp warning.


But just for giggles... you may want to disconnect the Tan/Black wire from the multi-gauge. If it's going bad, it could be sounding your buzzer too. I think it can sound the buzzer if any of the warning lights come on. It's probably more likely that the gauge went bad, over the MPEM.

 

[bigJake]

Tony's post made me go back and sqint at the wiring diagram again. Damn my eyes are gettting worse by the day.

I mislabeled the ground wire from the buzzer as Purple/Black, It is Tan/Black as Tony indicates.

Tony, other than that does my logic in post 30 make sense in ruling out the MPEM? The diagram I am looking at jsut shows the buzzer, not the whole multi gauge, so I don't know how that ties back to the MPEM. (Plus I don't know what all the symbols on the diagram mean).

 

[LouDoo]

I'm at work right now but I'll do some more checking when I get home. I feel like I've been chasing ghosts but from what I can remember I disconnected the tan wire, inside the front elec. box at the MPEM and still had a short to ground when measured at the input to the MPEM. I measured from the temp sensor to ground and it was open, indicating it's either in the MPEM or on the buzzer circuit.

The led on the speedometer and low fuel warning appear to be functioning normally, they both come on momentarily and then go off. However the high temp warning on the info. gauge flashes. I can't tell for sure cause it's just a tad chilly to go to the lake.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

I'm at work right now but I'll do some more checking when I get home. I feel like I've been chasing ghosts but from what I can remember I disconnected the tan wire, inside the front elec. box at the MPEM and still had a short to ground when measured at the input to the MPEM. I measured from the temp sensor to ground and it was open, indicating it's either in the MPEM or on the buzzer circuit.

The led on the speedometer and low fuel warning appear to be functioning normally, they both come on momentarily and then go off. However the high temp warning on the info. gauge flashes. I can't tell for sure cause it's just a tad chilly to go to the lake.

Lou

ahh, thought you meant the buzzer was actually still going off after you disconnected the Tan from the MPEM. When not overheated, the temp Sensor Should be open, based on what Tater said as far as the sensor closing and goign to ground when it overheats. when you put it that way I'm back to the MPEM

 

[bigJake]

this here lectrical stuff is gettin way too confusin fer me, I'll let you lectrical fellers figure it out. Remember about them gremlins tho Lou, don't feed em after dark and don't get em wet or they will be all thru yur ski. I'm gonna git back on home to the thread and make sure SDB ain't gittin in trouble no how. This thinkin stuff is makin my head hurt.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

That's OK Jake. Lou is telling his boss that there is a big problem with the computer network so he must locked in his cubicle all day while figur'ng out the solu'shun.

 

[Dr Honda]

Tony, other than that does my logic in post 30 make sense in ruling out the MPEM?

Ummmm....

Yes. Basically the buzzer is hot, and whatever needs to turn it on will ground it.

I'm at work right now but I'll do some more checking when I get home.

Lou

Lou... you need to get your priorities straight. You are going to work, when you have a sick seadoo at home !!!! I thought I knew you better. (lol)

If you take a big step back... the buzzer is a simple thing. The ground wire branches off to 3 things. The MPEM, The temp sender, and the Multi-gauge. Unplug one thing at a time, and see what one makes it stop beeping. Then you will know what's causing the issue.

Hey Lou. I may come down your way this spring for a Jet Rally. If I do... I'll shoot you a PM so we can hook up and grab a beer. (or Coffee)

 

[LouDoo]

You know I thought about staying home, but my wife said I had to go to work, something about eating? Not sure....

Tony, I don't drink coffee, it's bad for you, so I guess we'll have a beer, beer is good, it makes you smart, it made Bud-weiser.

Lou

 

[LouDoo]

I about gave up on this last night, but you guys have bullied me into trying again. This time I was very methodical. I disconnected all the sensors, both gauges, pretty much unplugged everything that can be unplugged. I still get the beep and the info. gauge flashing HI-TEMP.

I'm also measuring almost (less than 2 ohms) a dead short from the tan wire disconnected from the temp. sensor to ground.

I opened up the front electrical box and disconnected the tan wire to the MPEM. Now I get an open to ground in the tan wire, the tan wire to the MPEM is a dead short. Since the MPEM is a secret to everybody except SeaDoo and maybe the CIA, I'm thinking that the short is in the MPEM to ground on the temp. sensing circuit.

Unless somebody's got a better idea I'm just gonna leave the beeper disconnected. I've got a new in box MPEM, but I'm just gonna keep it until I have other problems. Thanks for the ideas and help.

Lou

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Tony, I don't drink coffee, it's bad for you, so I guess we'll have a beer, beer is good, it makes you smart, it made Bud-weiser.
Lou

LOL...it also made Mr Guinness Stout, Sam Adams Ail (ale) & Mr. Molson Canadian. ...:cheers::cheers:

 

[LouDoo]

This problem is bugging the sh*t out of me. So I've got a question. I have a brand new MPEM without the lanyard. My question is this; if I install the new MPEM, for testing, other than getting one long beep for not recognizing the lanyard, will the other functions work, i.e. high temp. circuit?

If this fixes the problem then I'll take it to the dealer and have the MPEM programmed.

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

This problem is bugging the sh*t out of me. So I've got a question. I have a brand new MPEM without the lanyard. My question is this; if I install the new MPEM, for testing, other than getting one long beep for not recognizing the lanyard, will the other functions work, i.e. high temp. circuit?

If this fixes the problem then I'll take it to the dealer and have the MPEM programmed.

Lou

shoot i could be wrong here but i don't think anything will work if you fail the dess. i think you'll just get one long beep and then you'll be just scratching your balls.

if i'm wrong correct me

It should be reasonable to reprogram the dess so the new ebox will work, i've seen it from $10 to $70 tho so don't accept the first quote unless its close to the lower #.

if you have an entire ebox, get it reprogrammed anyway, that way the item has value.

i stil haven't replaced mine due to pure laziness, and the fact that the ski is running absolutely perfect, and i hate swapping it out simply due to a dam buzzer.

fortunately on mine i have a small lcd light that indicates that water injection is on, and it lights up quickly then shuts off when i put the lanyard on, so i get a visual that the dess worked, if it doesn't light up then i do the pull / blow on it / put it back routine and then i get my flash of light (my new beep )

ps i swear to god, 99% of the time the blow on it technique works lol, its such a habit now

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Actually you will be able to hit the start button a few times with the key out and the gauge will stay on for 30sec...so yes you can check that stuff.

 

[LouDoo]

Thanks for the input. That's kinda what I thought. I only have the MPEM module, not the entire E-Box and the only thing that appears to be wrong with the old MPEM is the high temp. warning circuit. I think I'll PM Nick and see if he has a good used E-Box and then have the new MPEM programmed.

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I actually have two complete 96 GSX boxes with keys right now. I cant believe you are going to swap it b/c of this problem...but I wont stop ya! LOLOL

 

[LouDoo]

O.K., I found the problem last night, it's so stupid I almost didn't post. Last year when I bought the ski it had a Tach. and no Speedometer. So I decided that since the multi-gauge had a tach. function that I would like to add a speedo. So I rounded up the parts and added the speedo.

I believe the the speed gauge was out of a 96GTX and had a low oil led instead of the overheat light like the original tach. had, so I hooked the led to the oil sender in the oil tank, everything worked fine.

This is where things went wrong, I thought to myself. Why not hook up the overheat circuit to the same LED? In theory it should work, and it did for a while. In practice it doesn't work because when I disconnected the jumper wire from the gauge the overheat alarm stopped. I almost didn't post this because it turned out it was my fault, but I figured there's a lesson to be learned here.

Lou

 

[bigJake]

don't feel bad Lou, same thing happened to me last year. Just check your compresssion and post the results
so, I didn't quite follow, with the jumper disconnected is the overheat alarm disconnected now or does it still work?

 

[LouDoo]

Hi Jake,

I do this kind of crap all the time, I tend to think forward not back.

What I was thinking was why not connect the low oil circuit and the high temp circuit to the LED in the speedo gauge, so that if either one has a fault the light will come on, seemed logical at the time.

What I did was actually bridge both the low oil circuit and the over temp. circuit together causing apparently to short both circuits to ground. I haven't really looked at the wiring diagram but I am surmising that's what happened.

What alerted me to this was post no. 2, when you were asking about adding the speedometer.

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

Actually you will be able to hit the start button a few times with the key out and the gauge will stay on for 30sec...so yes you can check that stuff.

well, i learned something new today then