cylinder 1 no spark and cylinder 2 minimal spark

[zlat46]

Wsm make a 1 piece grease fitting with bearings and seals built in.... Apparently it's a good upgrade as you can't blow the seals out If you try pumping to much grease through it

I ordered it, should have it Tommorow

So how hard is the intallstion, is it a matter if just removing the pump and pulling the shaft out and skidding off on the new bearing? As it's one piece nonneed to press anything?

 

[ocod]

not 100% sure but sounds pretty much right.
That should be same as link I posted.

You should also replace neoprene pump seal when re installing pump...

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Actually you have a big problem...To do the job right you are going to need to align it. That area is VERY prone to failure unless it is aligned correctly.

First take pump out and pull shaft out. Then take the black plate off above the bad bearing and the other 2 holding the shock mount. You will also need to take the PTO guard off the back of the motor. Then, the main driveshaft will come out.

All of that will need to be out to align.

Then take the bearing carrier out and replace it. Once you tighten the two mounts around the carrier, it should lock it in. It looks from your video though those mounts my need to be replaced. I have some in stock if you need it. parts are 1,2,29 in this 'fiche...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...s/Seadoo_OEM/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=47&B=18

Once you figure that out, mount that assembly back into the jetski. The carrier should be loose so that it can be positioned when the alignment tool goes in. once the alignment is set, tighten the carrier mounts and put the driveshaft stuff back in.

This is not an easy procedure...I would suggest at the very least bringing it to someone that has the tool for the alignment. More than likely the motor will not be aligned...even if its never been out. Hulls distort.

The skis with the pump mounting plate didnt come with a neoprene seal, but its good to put one in.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I should add you could just bring the alignment tool into the bearing carrier and not all the way to the motor...but I would STRONGLY suggest aligning it all the way to the motor. That is...unless you like to do things over and over again.

This is NOT an area to cut corners. If anything is out of alignment that carrier will fail quite fast, along with the couplers and the dampeners.

 

[LouDoo]

Nick,

I'm just curious, I've got three skis and none of them have this, they all seem to run fine without the dampers and stuff. To me it seems over complicated. What's the purpose?

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Yup its only on the shock seat models....HX, 97XP, XPL. Completely different hull. Engine is MUCH farther forward.

Its b/c the driveshaft is too long and would bend to chit everytime you sucked up a rope. I assume its also the most cost effective way seadoo could come up with.

This system is MUCH less forgiving to misalignment than all other skis. There are some who disagree...I learned from the best and this is not a place to cut corners.

 

[LouDoo]

I guess I see the reasoning but one would think they could do the same thing with a universal joint, like on big trucks, but I guess SeaDoo knows more about building PWC's than I do.

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Lou...its never about better...lol think cheaper.

in production any place to save a few pennies is a win. It cost too much to put the square hole in the end of the 95-96 787 cranks....so they went with a plastic thing that went over the mag nut in 97. Fails when not aligned properly and then motor doesnt get oil. its a horrible way to save a few bux.

 

[zlat46]

So guys I know it's not a place to cut corners. Is there a way to do this without the alignment tool? At all?

 

[ocod]

confucius would say do it at the risk of doing it again.

With what minnetonka said I wouldn't.

 

[zlat46]

Ok so I'm stuck!!!!

I can't get the shaft out, I've disconnected it from the first
Piece from the motor, but won't slide out!

What am induing wring, does the seat assembly need to come out? I physically can't pull it out or push it in

 

[seadoosnipe]

looked at all those pics, all the ( green ) copper wire that has turned green, needs replaced, U cannot even make a good solder joint with green - damaged wiring --
Your skin has many chemicals in sweat that attack the copper bands and allow them to corrode and oxidize turning the resulting chemicals green on your hand. ever notice some people cannot wear copper jewelry ??? salt water and oxygen attacks your wiring (copper) causing oxidation -- when left unprotected

You can also notice this action on copper wires that are exposed to the outside elements. your wiring was bare, unprotected for a while, it doesnt happen overnight, sand up connectors that are good, meaning the ones that wires are not (green), replace cables, wires that are green, any connectors u replace, add heat shrink, - u can simply melt heat sgrink with a cigarette lighter, -- sealing wires is a must, after that dielectic grease on all connectors, and simply spray hull area with silicon, when your done riding after u flush

The green corrosion on just the negative cable is caused by negative ions attacking the copper. The sulfuric acid in batteries is usually the source of the negative ions through hydrogen sulfide gas that comes from the battery being charged. The corrosion I saw in the pix is indicative of someone charging the battery while it is still connected to your system. I would also be sure to check for your vent line from the battery, make sure it is ventintg outisde the hull. That hydrogen gas is also the cause of many battery explosions.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

The shaft is stuck to the bearing carrier. Take the carrier mount apart so you can get the shaft and carrier out in one piece. Then...deal with the old carrier.

 

[LouDoo]

I don't know if this applies to the carrier bearing, but on drive shafts that connect directly to the PTO you need to remove the zerk fitting to release the drive shaft.

Lou

 

[zlat46]

Ok finally got it out, that c clip was hidding behind the rubber boot , finally got it out this morning...

Shaft look good, very Minnor marks from bearing, I'll sand it very lightly

Just was thinking.... If I haven't moved the mounting bracket for shaft or motor, wouldn't the alignment still be fine? I have found the reason why the bearing was dead... Must have put to much grease and popes the seal off, and then when I got water in the hull the whole thing was very badly rusted, putting her back together after work

 

[Minnetonka4me]

That carrier has to be in the exact right position or the couplers will not be aligned.

Give it a shot...when it rips apart just know that the 97 driveline parts are not easy to find and not cheap. I have parted 2, and all the driveline parts are sold.

 

[LouDoo]

FYI, SBT in Tampa has the engine alignment tool, buy for $150.00 rents for $75.00.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski_repair_tools/80-103B.html

Lou

 

[zlat46]

Question....

Took tue ski out running 100% so happy finally

One thing I did though was I must have pumped to
Much grease in and one washer ring poped out.... Do you guys put lock tight or something around the washer ?

When the ski is running.... Is the bearing housing meant
To aping around aswel or is that meant to sit in the same position?

 

[LouDoo]

Using the parts link which parts are you talking about?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=47&B=18

If it's part no. 10 double lip seal(s), it shows locktite 518 anerobic sealant (gasket maker).

If you haven't already done so you need to download a service manual for your ski, this work is too involved to have to do it twice. You can download one for free if you join as a premium member of his forum, or you can google and download one elsewhere.

Lou

 

[Minnetonka4me]

The bearing carrier is not supposed to spin....but the stainless steel thing you had trouble getting off the driveshaft does.

 

[zlat46]

Yep number 10, I didn't locktight it, I'll put some on

It says to grease the outside of the carrier.... If that's the case that grease needs to be On the outside that to me suggests it moves around aswel?

 

[zlat46]

Ok so I managed to slide the washer along the shaft and clean it up as best as possible, put locktight on the sucker, Tommorow I'll load up some grease in the bearing

I'm thinking this would have done the job

Going back to spark issue, the thing ran like a dream.... We have 2-2 1/2 metre waves was awsomeee