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cylinder 1 no spark and cylinder 2 minimal spark

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The cables look pretty bad, about as bad as I've seen, I would replace the positive cable also. I would look into getting some new ones made by a professional, probably is not going to cost you much more than doing them your self. I know that here there is a company called Republic Diesel that makes them, not sure if they are national or not. Call around to places that rebuild starters, alternators, I'm sure you can find someone in Miami.

I actually found a negative cable for one of my ski's at Walmart (if they don't have it you don't need it), pretty close match. So you might check around at automotive places also.

Lou
 
Yup that ground is crap! Also someone changed the plug wires...there should be a clip holding them in the coil. Prob not a bad thing you are replacing it.

I would just clean up the positive wires. Clean everything good in the black ebox...sand the little black wires. Make sure the fuse holders are clean.

I would do the MPEM connectors too....and as I said, just do the front mag housing. It will take a few hours and its always good to know nothing crazy is going on in there.
 
looked at all those pics, all the ( green ) copper wire that has turned green, needs replaced, U cannot even make a good solder joint with green - damaged wiring --
Your skin has many chemicals in sweat that attack the copper bands and allow them to corrode and oxidize turning the resulting chemicals green on your hand. ever notice some people cannot wear copper jewelry ??? salt water and oxygen attacks your wiring (copper) causing oxidation -- when left unprotected

You can also notice this action on copper wires that are exposed to the outside elements. your wiring was bare, unprotected for a while, it doesnt happen overnight, sand up connectors that are good, meaning the ones that wires are not (green), replace cables, wires that are green, any connectors u replace, add heat shrink, - u can simply melt heat sgrink with a cigarette lighter, -- sealing wires is a must, after that dielectic grease on all connectors, and simply spray hull area with silicon, when your done riding after u flush
 
Thanks for the response

I pulled appart the positive wiring aswel this mornings, even though they were the factory wires and sealed, once I pulled some of rubber back the copper wire was also green, not as bad as the ground cable but still very green.

Purchased new positive cables aswel. From batt to coil, coil to starter

Just waiting on the new coil today and she will all go back together, I'm hopping Incan put this all to rest now

Last night I contact cleaned all the mpem plugs and everything elec

So everything that could have been done has been

So going by that bad ground cable, this would have definetly caused issues for me?

Does that cool look bad?
 
Just got my coil pack and boots delivered,

Is it best trim trim a
Tinny bit of the rubber cable to expose the the wire in the boot? Or should I
Leave the cables cut flush straight then screw the boots in?

I wa thinking by exposing the wire you would get a better spark?
 
Usually a coil gets bulged or cracked when its bad, but those wires look shot.

I'm gonna say it till im blue in the face...take the mag cover off and check it out!

Also, make sure to check the connector on top of the black box, and the connector on the motor. Grease those too.


This type of stuff will always make a machine run better....even if it doesnt fix your problem, it fixed many that were going to pop up in the future.
 
Ok guys all done!!!
Ski fired up first kick.... Seems to be running good, once in the water will be the ultimate test


Question.... I noticed the last time i rode it and just now as it was idling like a laud vibration noise almost like a grind or something loose around the drive shaft area from the back of the motor.... Can anyone help with this issue?

Thanks
 
Are you sure you are not hearing the SeaDoo rattle? There's some play in the pump shaft about 1/8" and SeaDoo's rattle until under load. I set the idle a little higher 1600-1700rpm to minimize the noise. If that's not what you are hearing you may need to rebuild the pump.

You also might want to visually check around the pump to see if something got sucked into the pump, also check the drive shaft to see if something got wrapped around the shaft.

Lou
 
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I think it was like almost something even holding it back from reving.... Sounds like typical Seadoo rattle but x5 lauder, if that makes sense

I just installed a new wear ring and solas the mechanic said everything looked good

Does the 97 have a
Lubrication nipple behind the engine? Or is
It Just the rear nipple?

How much play should the driveshaft have when moving it by hand left and right?
Dono if something is wrapped around it... You mean under the petrol tank around there?
 
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Check under the PWC where the drive shaft exits the hull to the pump, I had part of a plastic ice bag wrap around one of my ski's last year.

The should be a grease fitting on the PTO where it connects to the drive shaft. Lubricate with water proof marine grease.

Lou
 
I've never greased that nipple near the pro it's that bearing is dry will it cause vibration?

I'll have a look at what your saying and let you know

Thanks lou
 
There's not a bearing there, the zerk fitting is there to lubricate the splines where it goes into the PTO, pump grease in until the rubber boot just starts to swell. Unless it's completely dry it shouldn't cause a vibration. BTW, what year is your XP? I think 97 and beyond used a rubber bushing at the PTO.

Lou
 
Its a 97 xp, I just went to have a look incant find that fitting, were exactly
Is it do you know?

I also checked if anything was stuck, it's perfect
In there, also prop and wear are
Immaculate not a mark on either

I've got a bit of play left and right but not to crazy, there's fair bit of play at the rear, don't knownif that's normal ?
 
I'm afraid that I've reached the end of my knowledge about the propulsion system on your ski. I have no practical knowledge here's a diagram of the system. I would rather give you no advice than wrong advice. Try PM'ing minnetonka4me or Dr Honda, I'm sure they can give you the information you need.

The amount of play in the pump is about 1/8"

Anyway here's a parts diagram.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=47&B=18

Lou
 
this may be useless information, but I'll throw it out there. When I removed my pump, I was missing (or it fell off, not sure which) the rubber bumper (part # 12) in the diagram Lou sent, which I'm assuming absorbs some of the vibration.
 
Yup those rubber bumpers on the driveshaft are essential.

Where are you getting this "play"? There shouldnt really be any. The play they are talking about is the prop shaft in the pump.

On the 97 theres a grease zerk on the driveshaft support under the seat. That needs to be greased every ride...just a squirt.

I would hope that the guy who did the prop/pump would have checked it out and said something if there was something wrong.
 
http://m.youtube.com/?ytsession=KKCJ448oggRbYiwSgCYaIqpYT9-9bLBWM3FeRuKQGDwjStF9HIzm_ioY7Ntzzum4mC7mIl7TON43waCxLGf_Jk9IiH3K5xhtWb3biVJKIe0dTagdsiIOdx-aXauNAI1d19-0kG98Dci_Qn-khSPpAQ#/watch?bmb=1&v=W3z3CYML3ak


This should work hopefully
 
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Try typing in YouTube

Seadoo 97 bearing fault

My username us xxxwrx

In thinking it's a bad needle driveshaft bearing, I'm guessing beatings are ceased from the salt
 
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/W3z3CYML3ak" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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