Challenger 4tec Upgrade

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Damn right
315.jpg
still leaks a little, but for a boat that you could put a finger though, I think it's okay. We always bring scuppers along.
316.jpg
goods times were had
 
Well the gauge pod is nearly complete. Just a bit more finishing work to do. I think I'll paint it white.
49.jpg
50.jpg
51.jpg
52.jpg

The hood is really heavy now and doesn't like to hold itself up. Might have to install some sort of stick on a hinge to prop it up.
 
Went out on it this 4th of July after installing the new rectifier regulator and damn near started a fire! The thing overheated so bad that it charred itself! The wires are coming or with no resistance. I checked voltage when it was running and it was 14v at idle, but went up to 17v after 3k rpm. I'm furious. Going to do the other two checks of the stator today.
 
No kidding. So I tested the yellow wires of the stator to ground, no continuity there [emoji106], tested for resistance between the three wires, that too was perfectly within spec (.8 to 1 ohm). Started boat and tested voltage at 3500rpm, got 56v ac... supposed to be 25. How is that happening? I know [MENTION=52309]MPower[/MENTION] had this issue and said it was his stator, but the book says nothing on the upper bounds of testing the ac voltage with the rectifier unplugged. Can't I just get a beefier rectifier?
 
I have been researching the hell out of this rectifier issue, and trying to figure out why this could have happened. I'm starting to think it was just a cheap pos unit I replaced it with. I found better brands but I don't even want to go back to original. I want better. They have these new mosfet rectifiers that run cooler and even disconnect themselves temporarily of they overheat. I want to get one of these. I just need to make sure they're rated for 380w and can handle up to 90vac, which is what my magneto put out at full throttle. There are varying thoughts out there, on whether 90vac is normal for an unregulated stator output at 8krpm, so I'm waiting on the owner of Rick's Motorsport Electrics to get back from vacation this Friday so he can find a good upgrade for me :)
 
During my ride this weekend, I decided to see how the pump is performing. I couldn't believe what I saw! Some of the water coming out of the venturi was bouncing back out of the steering nozzle and hitting the transom! Wtf? Check out the video.
https://vimeo.com/173675414
 
90vac is ok for an unloaded Y wound stator.

There are many options for a fet type regulator (lots of yamaha R1's have a series type regulator which is what you want.

Using a shunt type regulator is a cheap waste of energy that only creates heat IMO.


There is usually some water that will flow backwards when it hits the nozzle and reverse bucket.

Is the reverse bucket partially down or is something stuck in the nozzle?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mekanix, I believe it was one of your posts on another forum than mentions compufire regulators. I found that they have good US made 32 and 40amp mosfet rectifiers. Just put an offer on one.
Before I install it though, what's the best way to see if I have a short? I put an ohm meter across my battery terminals and am getting 3M Ohms. I know that's a lot, but is it normal? It goes away if I unplug the ecu
 
I get about a .013a draw of I measure the current between the battery and the negative cable unhooked
 
Ah yes i remember that post. Lots of Suzuki guys switch over to those because the stock unit would cook often.You can't really check it like that .Without the system live its hard to say.A short would kill the whole system and blow fuses.I would suspect that your simply overloading the rectifyer and its too cheap to handle it. Ive been through lots of them over the years.Expect 2-300$ for a good series regulator/rectifier.However there are other options. like the FH-014AA

Or check this list:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?134690-Rectifier-Regulator-replacement-list


 
Last edited by a moderator:
In order to choose the right regulator, keep in mind the maximum rating of the stator acording to the service manual and try and stay under that. A regulator is easier to replace than a stator....


You would need to have the batteries fully charged and then have the boat running with all accessories on and then check the maximum current draw with a clamp meter or an inline amp meter to all your accessories.. Then choose a regulator that meets that demand. Just make sure you connect to only the accessories and not the main starting wire. So use the positive that picks off the battery and goes to the computer and accessories. After all your only looking for the running draw.

Try that without the regulator connected at all. That will show you the maximum parasitic draw.
You may be drawing quite a bit already.

How much could you really be drawing anyways ?
I mean, the gauges do not take much. maybe 0.5A
Tthe bilge pump and fan are intermittent usage but can take up to 10A
The fuel pump, ignition and computer might take a bit thought, Assume 15A
The lights might take a bit but you can switch to LED everything and save power there. So 2A
The stereo could take a bit... Intermittently up to 15 amps
This might add up quickly
So far I'm thinking 45-50 Amps max
or 15 minimum

Here's something to help you tell what your drawing.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-200V-100...843573?hash=item360444acf5:g:Ov4AAOSwk1JWfOmt
 
Last edited by a moderator:
snikwad003 said:
How is your dual battery set up wired?
Click to expand...

Yeah good question!
Are you dedicating one battery to the boat that is charged by the engine and one that is total loss for the radio?


Charging that dead battery could be very well what killed that regulator!
Some deep cycle batteries can easily jump over 40 amps if you try and force 14.4v and have the ability to push that current to it.
 
Sombody from the lake norman meet up posted in that thread the anchor light was dimming with the bass makes me wonder how you got it wired up
 
Yea, they're separate, but connected by a big switch. That is what probably killed my original rectifier. I just bought a 32a compufire 3phase rectifier/reg. I don't see how my system could ever go over 32a at 380w as long as it maintains 14.5v. Besides the charging fuse is only 30a. also it's not a shunt rectifier but rather the mosfet type. I believe it's an improvement
 
The lights and all accessories are on the audio battery. I kept the seadoo electrical system exactly how it was on the ski. Bilge, blower, lights, audio, even vts (known mpem killer) are on the total loss deep cycle circuit.

I figure if the charging system really starts asking for a lot of current, it'll blow that 30a fuse. I can always put a smaller one in there as well.
 
makes sense then... I hate tiny stators, my kx250 puts out a whimpy 30w IF I rewind the stator IF I'm in the upper rpm range. 250 2 stroke motocross bike in the woods at night with crappy lights is not a good plan. Does a rewind do any good for them 4tecks?
 
I'm looking at the newer 4 tec boats and they have all the accessories and the stereo all off the one battery and they can charge it no problem....

I can't find any part numbers for a stator and regulator for those though.
Even a wiring diagram or some specs would help....
 
I have an 850w amp pushing two polks and a 10in sub. That little stator is going to die if I try to run all that lol
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

M
2022 GTR230 impeller clearance
Replies
2
Views
124
Mikhail2400
M
M
Impeller tip broken. Cavitation?
Replies
2
Views
388
Mikhail2400
M
J
1996 Challenger - Takes Forever to Plane
Replies
3
Views
497
POPPS
P
Bshaw4377
1996 Seadoo Challenger Adventure/Resto
Replies
3
Views
208
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
T
New wear ring impeller gap
Replies
0
Views
657
tonyk72
T
Back
Top