Challenger 4tec Upgrade
- Thread starter IDoSeaDoo
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IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Well, i finally had a chance to install the new fuel pump strainers.
The top, inner one doesn't fit quite as snug as I'd like, but there is another filter before the fuel reaches the rail. Despite the threatening weather, i still made it out to Harris Lake and managed to test the boat with less than half a tank. The bogging problem is completely gone, even with 2 bars going on 1,the hardest turn couldn't make it stall.
While i had the seats off, i decided to install my secondary fuel vent. I took my plug out of the fuel pump vent and tied it in to the main vent using some of that grey fuel line i got off one of my other two stroke skis. No sense wasting good fuel hose on a vent [emoji106] i also had to use the piece of cooling hose with the 90deg bend that i cut off the original coolant hose that attached to the coolant reservoir. Without that bend, a straight hose would be kinked.
I also used this opportunity to test the new Compufire rectifier. I had a volt meter hooked up the entire time, and never saw more than 13.6V. That was at idle. Curiously, higher rpm produced lower voltage. On occasion, i verified the outer temperature of the unit and never saw it go hotter than 130F with an ambient temp of about 90-94F. I used a friend's Fluke ammeter and saw that the starter draws nearly 100A cranking, and the electronics draw about 7 or 8A at idle, and closer to 10A running. I forgot to see what the audio system draws, but will find out later.
I also tried to tune my amplifier, but realized i need more knowledge on this topic. There isn't much to it, i have a low and high pass switches for my split channels. Two polks on two, and one ten inch bazooka sub on the other two.
The top, inner one doesn't fit quite as snug as I'd like, but there is another filter before the fuel reaches the rail. Despite the threatening weather, i still made it out to Harris Lake and managed to test the boat with less than half a tank. The bogging problem is completely gone, even with 2 bars going on 1,the hardest turn couldn't make it stall.
While i had the seats off, i decided to install my secondary fuel vent. I took my plug out of the fuel pump vent and tied it in to the main vent using some of that grey fuel line i got off one of my other two stroke skis. No sense wasting good fuel hose on a vent [emoji106] i also had to use the piece of cooling hose with the 90deg bend that i cut off the original coolant hose that attached to the coolant reservoir. Without that bend, a straight hose would be kinked.
I also used this opportunity to test the new Compufire rectifier. I had a volt meter hooked up the entire time, and never saw more than 13.6V. That was at idle. Curiously, higher rpm produced lower voltage. On occasion, i verified the outer temperature of the unit and never saw it go hotter than 130F with an ambient temp of about 90-94F. I used a friend's Fluke ammeter and saw that the starter draws nearly 100A cranking, and the electronics draw about 7 or 8A at idle, and closer to 10A running. I forgot to see what the audio system draws, but will find out later.
I also tried to tune my amplifier, but realized i need more knowledge on this topic. There isn't much to it, i have a low and high pass switches for my split channels. Two polks on two, and one ten inch bazooka sub on the other two.
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One of the great features of that regulator is that it won't overcharge a battery and boil it over. Its normal for it to deop down in voltage at higher rpms.
Your maximum stator output is at idle and 5000 rpm. After that the stator is saturated and cant produce any more power than it currently is producing.
Your maximum stator output is at idle and 5000 rpm. After that the stator is saturated and cant produce any more power than it currently is producing.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Feed the sub through the LPF and I like feeding my speakers with the LPF/HPF set to off, some people like the speakers with HPF just depends on what you like. Yeah, cavitation?
suke
Well-Known Member
So you can hammer down from idle and no slip?
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Yup, no bouncing off the rev limiter. I did make sure my prop pitch was correct and the prop itself is better than the original i had on there. SBT sent me a replacement as the original they sent 2 years ago had short trailing edges. So good prop plus correct pitch plus wider reduction nozzle equals no cavitation. Widening my steering nozzle should improve my holeshot and top end, especially when trimmed down.
As for the amplifier, i had my speakers going through HPF and sub though LPF, but i wonder if it wouldn't be better to tune it manually. Also, bass boost was tricky. Tuning it for one song would make others sound bad. Still looking for that happy medium. I really need someone with more experience to just listen to it and give some advice.
As for the amplifier, i had my speakers going through HPF and sub though LPF, but i wonder if it wouldn't be better to tune it manually. Also, bass boost was tricky. Tuning it for one song would make others sound bad. Still looking for that happy medium. I really need someone with more experience to just listen to it and give some advice.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Wich polks you got?
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
So the tweets are separate?
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
I would feed those puppys full band, are you feeding the sub channel from a sub out or a regular output from your head unit?
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
In that case I would run the LPF on the sub for sure, but like I said its what you want to hear and like you said tuning it manualy is what usualy works best but the LPF helps a non sub out give the proper signals to only feed bass to the sub so you dont hear vocals out of the sub.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I bought a really sweet cwb wakeboard yesterday. The boat pulled it perfectly. The wake is really tame, but if you get about 70' back, the is a little 2' hump you can jump. I'm not good enough to jump anything yet, and had to return the board because the bindings were crushingly small 
but i will be getting another one soon. It was a blast. The speed was just right at about 5400rpm, with the trim in the middle. Absolutely no problems popping a 200lb wake boarder out of the water.
I'm wondering now about possible addons to get bigger wake. Like some sort of deployable scoop or grate. I'd love to see the look on people's faces wseeing my little challenger throw a decent wake [emoji3]
but i will be getting another one soon. It was a blast. The speed was just right at about 5400rpm, with the trim in the middle. Absolutely no problems popping a 200lb wake boarder out of the water. I'm wondering now about possible addons to get bigger wake. Like some sort of deployable scoop or grate. I'd love to see the look on people's faces wseeing my little challenger throw a decent wake [emoji3]
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Try it with say a 30' rope and hit the first set of waves. A tower makes it 5,000,000,000,000,000 times better to jump. I would bet trimming it up would make it plow better. Also putting all the weight to one side makes that sides wake bigger.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Me alone cocks the boat to one side haha. I thought about a tower, but it would interfere with the Bimini. I've seen this boat with a tower, but what's the point if the waves are tiny.
I'm wondering about those chrome scoops I've seen on some of those wake boats. What does THAT do?
I'm wondering about those chrome scoops I've seen on some of those wake boats. What does THAT do?
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Some of those chrome things divert the exhaust so you dont die while wakesurfing
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