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2010 4tec 215 SCIC into a 2004 4tec SCIC boat

abdulhtc24

New Member
Hello,
I've got 2004 Challenger boat that uses a 4tec SCIC engine ( not sure the HP rating). I did a little digging and found that all these 4tec engines will bolt up to the same mounting holes so I figured what the hell and bought a running 2010 GTX 215 with IBR to use as a donor. I've got them both sitting and ready for the swap, just want last minute confirmation that the concept is valid and that I should be able to use my 04 ECU to control everything will fit and run properly ETC.

Thanks,
 
There are several differences that need to be addressed like TOPS system, correct CPS timing, CB venting, etc. but it is doable.
 
There are several differences that need to be addressed like TOPS system, correct CPS timing, CB venting, etc. but it is doable.
Hello, for the TOPS, can I leave the 2010 TOPS valve in and unplugged then for the original tops, swap in the oil pump housing with the TOPS valve and oil pressure sensor plugged in like normal. For CPS, can I just leave the 2010 wheel and sensor in like normal and expect the correct timing trigger to be sent or do I need to modify? For the CB venting, do I have to do any drilling?? I'd rather not put shaving in my block. Anything else I need to consider? Additionally, I bought the boat used and they put a cone style cold air intake on. What does the stock air intake look like and is there any reason why the previous owner would have switched? I'm really excited to get this boat on the water!
 
or the TOPS, can I leave the 2010 TOPS valve in and unplugged then for the original tops, swap in the oil pump housing with the TOPS valve and oil pressure sensor plugged in like normal.
No, this will have improper venting and not work well. You need to completely remove the 2010 system and use the complete older one including the cam cap if you are using the old electronics.
For CPS, can I just leave the 2010 wheel and sensor in like normal and expect the correct timing trigger to be sent
Yes
For the CB venting, do I have to do any drilling??
The 2010 has the vent hole in it even though you don't need it but it will still run fine.
I bought the boat used and they put a cone style cold air intake on.
This is probably stock. Most of the boats have the open air filter from the factory.
 
No, this will have improper venting and not work well. You need to completely remove the 2010 system and use the complete older one including the cam cap if you are using the old electronics.

Yes

The 2010 has the vent hole in it even though you don't need it but it will still run fine.

This is probably stock. Most of the boats have the open air filter from the factory.
Thanks for the responses, I ordered a new oil pump housing from ebay because mine was scored up from the catastrophic failure of the last engine. Will slap that on, remove the old tops, swap over the cam cap and try to get this thing running this week.
 
Just wanted to confirm that the boat did start and run. Unfortunately I was in limp mode I think because the boat only ever got up to like 10 or 15 mph. I did have the battery warning light come up. Im going to check voltages at the stator and rectifier. Hopefully fixing the charging will fix the limp mode issue.
 
Hello, any advice? I swapped back to the 2010 CPS and that didn't resolve it. I'm pretty sure I'm in limp mode because I'm topped at 5000 rpm at 10mph. How many mph can I expect when the boat is fully healthy and working as it should? I'm thinking of forking out the 400 or 500 bucks to get a scanner so any recommendations would be appreciated.
 
A couple of the sensors can get mixed up or snapped on backwards like the front OPS which should have the metal clip to the rear which will put it in limp mode.

Boat should do at least 40mph. Does sound like limp mode but are you getting beeps or check engine light?
 
I think the check engine light bulb may be bad because the three other lights flash momentarily when the key is inserted but the CEL hasnt come on even once since ive owned the boat. I'm getting a single beep every 15 mins. Ill check the OPS but im not getting the OP light. I also forked out the $450 for candoo pro on ebay so I should have more info here soon.
 
Update: scanner reported a code for ignition coil 2 short/ open so I confirmed that #2 cylinder wasn't getting 12v supply. Not sure why at the moment (fuse isnt blown) but I pulled 12v fused straight from the battery and spliced into the ignition coil line and viola - the boat is now doing atleast 30mph, maybe more, gonna gps check this weekend. I'll track down the exact fault point this weekend as well but for now I'm happy to be out of limp mode. Thanks for the help Mr.skidoo.
 
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