2004 4Tec blowing 5 amp fuse

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Xware

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I have a 2004 4tec I just purchased used. Was told the issue was with the start switch or the dess Post. Once I got it home and started investigating looks like the unit keeps owing the 5 amp fuse on the bottom right of the mpem 278001724.

I see a lot of information about different model mpem and repairing them and a lot of information on them. But for this model i see virtually no information.

The only ones I see for sale are used between 700 and $1,000 which in itself isn't the end of the world but I hate to drop that much on just speculation that it might be that. Looks like people are saying it would also be the ecu

I have disconnected the wiring harnesses to the voltage regulator I have also disconnected the harnesses to the cluster and the controls just to try to narrow it down.
Does anyone know of a way to narrow down the problem to the mpem?
 
I pulled the ecu and do see some discoloration on plug a in the center
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So if I unplug both harnesses from this box it does not blow the 5 amp fuse anymore however I don't know enough about this to know that that means it's the problem. I'm assuming this unit is powered by the mpem and not the other way around

I've been looking for replacement parts but it's hard to figure out which number I should be going for because no number seems to match up perfectly for what I can find for sale online
664132
Or
412.252.001.017 But the last three digits I can't seem to find. How would I know which one is compatible with my Sea-Doo nothing seems to come up in a cross reference search either
 
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What does the other side of the plug look like.is that the input side of ecu or the out put side of ecu.what 5 Amp fuse there are a few.is the machine dead or do some things light up we need a little more info.its like going on web m.d and saying sharp pain in chest.10,000 things it could be
 
The part number is 420 664 132 for the ECU. Have seen this several times before, if you jump start from a running car or boat it will ruin the ECU and cause it to blow the 5A fuse which is the power to the ECU on the B-11 circuit. Not sure if anyone is repairing these ECUs because it is a lot of work just to remove the potting material by itself to get to the diode.

That's why you never believe the owner what the problem is because they either don't know and are guessing or they don't want to tell you.

2004 GTX 4tec wiring diagram.png
 
The part number is 420 664 132 for the ECU. Have seen this several times before, if you jump start from a running car or boat it will ruin the ECU and cause it to blow the 5A fuse which is the power to the ECU on the B-11 circuit. Not sure if anyone is repairing these ECUs because it is a lot of work just to remove the potting material by itself to get to the diode.

That's why you never believe the owner what the problem is because they either don't know and are guessing or they don't want to tell you.

View attachment 57784
How did you get the part number I didn't see a machine model listed just 04 4 tec?or was the 4 tec all the same pn for ecu.i have a few ecu's from sunken 4 tecs kicking around that work but we never labeled them.
 
The p/n is right on the front of the ECU. They leave off the 420 which is the code for all ECUs. I'd be interested in your used ECUs and have a brand new ECU for that ski that I can program a new key to as well which will show 0 hours the gauge. There are lots of different ECUs for the 4tecs and you can't interchange but the 2002-2005 155 all use the same ECU. You can PM me.
 
The p/n is right on the front of the ECU. They leave off the 420 which is the code for all ECUs. I'd be interested in your used ECUs and have a brand new ECU for that ski that I can program a new key to as well which will show 0 hours the gauge. There are lots of different ECUs for the 4tecs and you can't interchange but the 2002-2005 155 all use the same ECU. You can PM me.
 

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That's the only one I have on my shelf in the building I have more out in our storage building.i have to inventory what I got I have a few rfi ecu mpem combo also
 
That's a little bit of an oddball ECU, it's for the 2006 RXP/RXT which has the newer electronics with the newer gauge but also has the mpem. I'll send you a PM.

Sorry to hijack this thread. If the OP is interested, I can help out so just PM me.
 
Not to hijack this thread but also found this on the shelf
 

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I have seen some ads on ebay saying they can program any ecu like this to be compatible with my seadoo for $89..anyone tried this? I was considering trying to get inside the EC you myself seeing if I can track down the problem. But I didn't want to try without being pretty certain that the EC use the problem but it looks like to me that it is.
 
The other side of the plug look just fine nothing wrong with it at all just the discoloration on the ECU side
 
If you are familiar with testing and replacing components on a SMD PC board then it is possible to replace the diode IF you can successfully remove all the potting material without doing anymore damage. I can supply the wiring diagram of the actual ECU internals itself and point you right to the diode on the B-11 circuit.

Your little bit of corrosion on the A connector is not your problem.

As soon as those guys on ebay try to power up your ECU they will be stuck and tell you the ECU is defective.
 
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Well the guys on eBay claim they can take a newer e c u and reprogram it to work with the older Sea-Doo I mean physically the ecu's look identical.
 
I am very familiar and comfortable with s m d components I'm just trying to figure out how to separate the plastic top off of the ECU. So yeah wiring diagram of the internal components will be incredible
 
I think it has to be cut apart on the ultrasonic weld seam. I have one of your exact ECUS with the same problem blowing the 5A fuse so may have another one for you to fix. Give me your email and I'll send you the wiring diagram of the ECU.
 
All the Siemens ECUs can be reflashed with any software. Matt at Torx does a lot them for me.
 
So I managed to get the board removed out of the TCU I wish I had known that it was the metal side of it that should have been separated and not the plastic side but I did find the damage it created a pretty big pit in the PC be so I don't know if it'll be able to be repaired
 

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