Carbon seal replace ment, No propulsion, Water in hull

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jaminjtown

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This past weekend I replaced my wear ring because the old one was badly damaged (as seen below!)and I was getting pretty bad cavitation. I had no problem getting the old one off and putting the new one on. I did not remove the impeller.
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I took my jet ski (1998 gti) out for a test run this weekend hoping that all my cavitation problems were solved. It wouldn't go anywhere! Come to find out the pto shaft actually went beside the impeller instead of in it! This caused a minor groove to be worn in the impeller. Do I need to replace my impeller or will it be ok?
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Now when I run it, it is still cavitating terribly! It has very very little propulsion and is taking on alot of water. Searched and found that the carbon seal is the culprit. I believe the carbon seal got damaged by the pto shaft not being inserted in the impeller and therefore causing flop in the shaft and damaging the carbon seal. Here is where my questions start. How hard is it to replace? I can now take the pump off in less than 15 minutes lol due to having to take it off 3 times in the past 2 days. Does the shaft slide out of the stainless collar? Should I just get the driveline repair kit from sbt? http://www.shopsbt.com/seadoo-jet-ski-driveline-rebuild-kit/70-105B.html

Also I would appreciate any information on how the carbon seal works. It seams that it wouldn't seal much?!
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Is this shaft suppose to "bubble out" on the end?
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You need driveshaft bumpers. That impellor looks from the pic, iits lifted/curled up, above the "notch", so yeah, send to sbt fpr reburbish. Need new carbon ring too

Also, i'd remove that wearring and getta oem/black ring. Those white ones have a tendency of causing cavitation.
 
Do you think I could get by without a refurb impeller or is that a must? I will go for the oem wear ring when it is time to replace again. Isn't the wear ring just there to provide a tight clearance?
I guess even with a new carbon seal and impeller it will only be like $130. Hmmm wonder how much the stealership would charge lol.
 
The seal happens with friction and suction It does work amazingly well despite how it looks. I still favor the old bearing style though.

As seadooya said...the bumpers on each end of the driveshaft is a MUST. It cannot be run with out them.

If you need parts I have a carbon ring and bumpers for $20 shipped. If you need the boot I can throw that in.

The driveshaft is supposed to be rounded.

The prop is not good. Its runnable, but that grove will screw with the hydrodynamics. SBT has bumped up their prices to over $60 so getting it repaired thru a professional is a better choice now...although its slower. Dave at Impros can make it beautiful and fully balanced.


To get it out you want the pump in. Some of the collars are worse than others so I will put a vise grip on it and bang on the VG with a hammer to get it to slide back. Then there is a moon shaped clip or a oring in the groove...get it off/out then it can all come apart.
 
#1 is I have about 10 of them. #2 is all the parts are light so I can send 1st class mail.

Let me know if I can help.
 
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