its very easy and you can do it yourself for about $175 including a refurbished impeller if yours can be refurbished. Im guessing for a new impeller and ring, the dealer will easily charge $500+
Can't pull a water skier?
- Thread starter Manitoba_guy
- Start date
- Status
Manitoba_guy
New Member
Called the dealer today. They quoted 700$+ for new Impeller, ring and labor....ouch!
red2blue
New Member
Yeah....they ain't called 'stealerships' for nothing.
Do yourself a favor...if you can't wait for Impros to rebuild your prop, and they do an outstanding job....buy a new one. Get a ring as well...even if you don't put it in, they ain't high dollar. Get the prop removal tool.
All this advice is predicated on the assumption that you have the work space and minor mechanical ability to do the job yourself.
Do yourself a favor...if you can't wait for Impros to rebuild your prop, and they do an outstanding job....buy a new one. Get a ring as well...even if you don't put it in, they ain't high dollar. Get the prop removal tool.
All this advice is predicated on the assumption that you have the work space and minor mechanical ability to do the job yourself.
red2blue
New Member
Tools you need:
12mm Allen
Impeller tool (resembles pump shaft/different for GTX & RXP)
Bench vice
3 foot piece of strong pipe to slip the 12mm Allen into for use as pry bar
13mm socket with extension for venturi (and pump support pm GTX)
17mm socket with extension for pump housing
Pair of 10mm open wrentches, sockets or ratchet wrenches
Small Allen for pump cone removal
Smaller Allen for trim (RXP)
Blue and/or Red loctite
Anti-seize (optional)
Sea Doo Bearing Grease (only if needed)
Removing the Pump:
1. Use 13mm to remove bolts from pump support brace (GTX)
2. Use 10mm to remove OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
3. Use smaller Allen to remove pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
5. Use 10mm to remove steering cable linkage
6. Use 10mm to remove reverse linkage
7. Use 13mm with extension to remove venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
8. Use 17mm with extenstion to remove pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
9. Slide the pump housing off the pump shaft and out of the ski
Changing the Prop:
10. Remove pump nose cone (either pops off or is threaded depending on year/make)
11. Put impeller tool in vice facing splines up
12. Slide pump impeller splines side down on the impeller tool
13. Use medium Allen to remove three bolts from pump cone
14. Lightly tap nose cone with rubber mallot until you get some space
15. Gently rock pump cone back and forth to work it out (Might need a flat head screwdriver the first time, but be gentle)
16. Once pump cone is removed, you will see the 12mm Allen hole
17. Put 12mm Allen in this spot and slide breaker bar/pipe down the end of the Allen
18. Turn counter clockwise to loosen (and clockwise to tighten.)
19. Loosen the Allen until it gets easy enough to turn by hand.
20. Take the pump off the vice/impeller tool and use your hand on the impeller and 12mm Allen to spin the prop off the shaft.
Swapping out wear rings:
(If you are swapping wear rings, add these steps. If not, just jump to the next section)
21. Once you get the prop out, take off the rubber pump seal
22. Pop the whole pump in the freezer for a little while.
23. Place the new wear ring in there too.
24. After an hour or two and its nice and cold, take it all out of the freezer.
25. Grab the damaged (white) wear ring with some channel locks and it will slide right out.
26. Slide the new one in
27. Replace the pump seal (and put a little marine grease around it.)
Putting it All Back Together:
Now working in reverse from step 20 to 13, replace the prop. You might want to put some anti seize on the prop shaft threads. And make sure to use some sort of loctite when putting the venturi and pump bolts back in. I would recommend blue on the venturi and blue on the pump housing until you find a final prop pitch. Then use red loctite on the pump housing bolts.
As far as how tight. I do the little bolts just snug and let the loctite do the rest. On the prop, I just lean into it until it stops spinning. But on the pump bolts, I crank the hell out of them. I don't know what the real specs are. I also like to check and clean the seal of the pump housing before putting it back into the ski.
I don't know that it makes a difference, but I clean the area where the pump housing slides into the pump shoe. Then I put a thin layer of Marine Grease on it to make sure it mates up well. When you go to slide the pump housing back in you may have to lift the shaft coming from the ski to get it to slide in. Once on the shaft, the pump may stop an inch out. This means the prop needs to be lined up on the splines. I usually just back it up a hair and reach over the top of the pump with my fingers and turn the prop slightly. I just repeat that process until it successfully slides flush with the mounting points.
Then start at step 8 and work backwards:
8. Use 17mm with extenstion to tighten pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
7. Use 13mm with extension to tighten venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
6. Use 10mm to tighten reverse linkage
5. Use 10mm to tighten steering cable linkage
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
3. Use smaller Allen to tighten pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
2. Use 10mm to tighten OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
1. Use 13mm to tighten bolts from pump support brace (GTX)[/u]
12mm Allen
Impeller tool (resembles pump shaft/different for GTX & RXP)
Bench vice
3 foot piece of strong pipe to slip the 12mm Allen into for use as pry bar
13mm socket with extension for venturi (and pump support pm GTX)
17mm socket with extension for pump housing
Pair of 10mm open wrentches, sockets or ratchet wrenches
Small Allen for pump cone removal
Smaller Allen for trim (RXP)
Blue and/or Red loctite
Anti-seize (optional)
Sea Doo Bearing Grease (only if needed)
Removing the Pump:
1. Use 13mm to remove bolts from pump support brace (GTX)
2. Use 10mm to remove OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
3. Use smaller Allen to remove pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
5. Use 10mm to remove steering cable linkage
6. Use 10mm to remove reverse linkage
7. Use 13mm with extension to remove venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
8. Use 17mm with extenstion to remove pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
9. Slide the pump housing off the pump shaft and out of the ski
Changing the Prop:
10. Remove pump nose cone (either pops off or is threaded depending on year/make)
11. Put impeller tool in vice facing splines up
12. Slide pump impeller splines side down on the impeller tool
13. Use medium Allen to remove three bolts from pump cone
14. Lightly tap nose cone with rubber mallot until you get some space
15. Gently rock pump cone back and forth to work it out (Might need a flat head screwdriver the first time, but be gentle)
16. Once pump cone is removed, you will see the 12mm Allen hole
17. Put 12mm Allen in this spot and slide breaker bar/pipe down the end of the Allen
18. Turn counter clockwise to loosen (and clockwise to tighten.)
19. Loosen the Allen until it gets easy enough to turn by hand.
20. Take the pump off the vice/impeller tool and use your hand on the impeller and 12mm Allen to spin the prop off the shaft.
Swapping out wear rings:
(If you are swapping wear rings, add these steps. If not, just jump to the next section)
21. Once you get the prop out, take off the rubber pump seal
22. Pop the whole pump in the freezer for a little while.
23. Place the new wear ring in there too.
24. After an hour or two and its nice and cold, take it all out of the freezer.
25. Grab the damaged (white) wear ring with some channel locks and it will slide right out.
26. Slide the new one in
27. Replace the pump seal (and put a little marine grease around it.)
Putting it All Back Together:
Now working in reverse from step 20 to 13, replace the prop. You might want to put some anti seize on the prop shaft threads. And make sure to use some sort of loctite when putting the venturi and pump bolts back in. I would recommend blue on the venturi and blue on the pump housing until you find a final prop pitch. Then use red loctite on the pump housing bolts.
As far as how tight. I do the little bolts just snug and let the loctite do the rest. On the prop, I just lean into it until it stops spinning. But on the pump bolts, I crank the hell out of them. I don't know what the real specs are. I also like to check and clean the seal of the pump housing before putting it back into the ski.
I don't know that it makes a difference, but I clean the area where the pump housing slides into the pump shoe. Then I put a thin layer of Marine Grease on it to make sure it mates up well. When you go to slide the pump housing back in you may have to lift the shaft coming from the ski to get it to slide in. Once on the shaft, the pump may stop an inch out. This means the prop needs to be lined up on the splines. I usually just back it up a hair and reach over the top of the pump with my fingers and turn the prop slightly. I just repeat that process until it successfully slides flush with the mounting points.
Then start at step 8 and work backwards:
8. Use 17mm with extenstion to tighten pump housing (again drill, just make sure you go easy as not to damage anything)
7. Use 13mm with extension to tighten venturi (use a drill to speed it up)
6. Use 10mm to tighten reverse linkage
5. Use 10mm to tighten steering cable linkage
4. Don't remove the spring, you don't need to unless you are changing venturis
3. Use smaller Allen to tighten pivot bolt from trim arm (RXP)
2. Use 10mm to tighten OPAS bolts from OPAS arms
1. Use 13mm to tighten bolts from pump support brace (GTX)[/u]
- Status
Similar threads
